Leica film cassettes

colyn

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I bought a 100 ft roll and will be getting back into bulk loading my B&W film for my M3's. I have a few of the chrome tipped cassettes designed for the M but was wondering (can't remember if 😕 😕 ) if the older screwmount cassettes will work in the M3??
 
ZorkiKat said:
...and you can't spool these cassettes with film using a bulk loader. You'd have to trim your film in the darkroom at pre-measured lengths (eg, 1,6 metres for 36 exposures) and load the cassettes there. A special table-mounted reeling device was made by Leitz for these cassettes.

Actually the Watson Model 100 loader will load both versions. I can even load my Kiev cassettes with it.
You just have to remember to remove the shim first when loading Leica cassettes.
 
ZorkiKat said:
...and you can't spool these cassettes with film using a bulk loader. You'd have to trim your film in the darkroom at pre-measured lengths (eg, 1,6 metres for 36 exposures) and load the cassettes there. A special table-mounted reeling device was made by Leitz for these cassettes.

I still have this reel.
I'm thinking of building a template to cut the proper length so I can have pre-cut lengths for quick loading.
 
I want to pick up a handful of IXMOOs but I haven't had any luck finding any at a reasonable price. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
A five-foot something template, Colyn? I used to have drawing pins (thumb tacks) stuck into a desk for, I think, 10 and 20 and 30 frames (plus leaders). Daniel is right: the M cassette will fit screw bodies, but the screw cassette is 2.2mm longer and won't go in an M. In a screw body, the film will ride a bit low and the exposed area on the film will be that much closer to one edge. It will go into the sprocket holes. There's a thread about how to fix this. I took another member's advice and now put a weak conical spring between base plate and "standard" cassette.
 
Colyn
Can you say which or what shim you need to remove, neither of my 'tear drop' loaders have any removable bits for the actuator, (both second hand,) nor has my similar developing tank.

Two of my loaders (the tear drops) have 'latches' (as has the Agfa day light loading tank) which will all work for my Nikon, Contax/Kiev, and Zorki 2-5 concentrics, but you have to have three hands and a short term memory, alas the last I never had.

The 2nd knob which operates the cassette latch and the winder knob both need to be held axialy squeezing the cassette all the while and the 2nd knob needs to be rotated the correct angle to close the cassette. e.g. if you rotate it through 360 + the correct angle you will rotate the outer more than you need...
The only sure way - for me - is to take the loader into a dark room to confirm that the cassette is locked correctly.

I have not damaged a loader yet, and a loader with the cassette driver should not have been damaged by a Leitz cassette - it should have been designed for both the Leitz and Contax cassettes - and both mine seem to be compatible with some of the others - like Zorki pin location style.

Some loaders dont have the locking actuation mechanism.

Noel
P.S. Jay
Thanks again for help with the Ru suitcase enlarger issue, I opened the suitcase case and removed every thing and vacuumed cleaned the foam, this removed every thing but the sticky foam residue. Then I washed everything to remove residue. I discovered the foam was eating the paint and the instruction book. I used a dyson which, would have stripped intact foam...

The book says any 60watt (or less) ES screw bulb will do, even a clear glass! It says with clear glass one needs to use the 6x6 cm ground glass option placing it in the filter drawer. I bought the enlarger from new about '73, so have all parts including sticky foam, half frame and 16mm masks.

Yes it has a plastic lamp housing but it is not totally heat resistant! The book says only use the bulb while focusing or printing... My serial number was 31xx so it may not have been high volume.

Do you have a booklet with your enlarger? If not it may be able to scan but could certaintly photo copy and snail mail.
 
Xmas said:
Colyn
Can you say which or what shim you need to remove, neither of my 'tear drop' loaders have any removable bits for the actuator, (both second hand,) nor has my similar developing tank.

The Watson model 100 came with a plastic shim that was placed inside the loader on the crank end. What purpose it serves I'm not sure unless it helps take up some of the space for longer cassettes.
The instructions say to remove it when loading Leica cassettes

Xmas said:
Two of my loaders (the tear drops) have 'latches' (as has the Agfa day light loading tank) which will all work for my Nikon, Contax/Kiev, and Zorki 2-5 concentrics, but you have to have three hands and a short term memory, alas the last I never had.

The 2nd knob which operates the cassette latch and the winder knob both need to be held axialy squeezing the cassette all the while and the 2nd knob needs to be rotated the correct angle to close the cassette. e.g. if you rotate it through 360 + the correct angle you will rotate the outer more than you need...
The only sure way - for me - is to take the loader into a dark room to confirm that the cassette is locked correctly.

I have not damaged a loader yet, and a loader with the cassette driver should not have been damaged by a Leitz cassette - it should have been designed for both the Leitz and Contax cassettes - and both mine seem to be compatible with some of the others - like Zorki pin location style.

Some loaders dont have the locking actuation mechanism.

I have a loader that does not work with cassettes that have to be closed after winding the film so it gets used for all others.
The Watson loads both my Leica (screw and M) and Kiev cassettes.
 
For weight and bulk reasons, Colyn, I prefer the vacuum variety: two pins or notches and nothing between them. Well, all right, there's a bit of air...
 
Xmas said:
Noel
P.S. Jay
Thanks again for help with the Ru suitcase enlarger issue, I opened the suitcase case and removed every thing and vacuumed cleaned the foam, this removed every thing but the sticky foam residue. Then I washed everything to remove residue. I discovered the foam was eating the paint and the instruction book. I used a dyson which, would have stripped intact foam...

The book says any 60watt (or less) ES screw bulb will do, even a clear glass! It says with clear glass one needs to use the 6x6 cm ground glass option placing it in the filter drawer. I bought the enlarger from new about '73, so have all parts including sticky foam, half frame and 16mm masks.

Yes it has a plastic lamp housing but it is not totally heat resistant! The book says only use the bulb while focusing or printing... My serial number was 31xx so it may not have been high volume.

Do you have a booklet with your enlarger? If not it may be able to scan but could certaintly photo copy and snail mail.


Thanks Noel. I no longer have the suitcase enlarger. Had it for a short time only as a standby between getting 'real' enlargers. Yes, it was the foam in the suitcase that did it. I really hated that oozing foam more that I liked Russian photographica then (it was really a long time ago, when I only had a FED-3 and was more into Leica). I now regret getting rid of that enlarger:bang:

That was also the time when I switched from tear-drop loaders (didn't like the long exposed rebate they made at the end of the film which found its way on the last exposure) to the simpler Lloyds (which counted frames by turn) and the more sophisticated AP. Both Alden and Russian enlarger went together to their new owner.

Jay
 
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