I have used all three of the enlargers. I could not get along with the V35,its technically very good, but the 'shape" was not to my liking. Liht sbotce bulbs can be difficult to fine as can some of negative carriers - so snap them up when they show up somewhere.
The Focomat !c is simply the best! Once you have set it up for auto focus, it just works! One caveat is the Newton rings which can appear. The condenser is part of the "film flattening" - just sits on top of the film and can create these. Unfortunately you won't see them until you pull a print! There is an Anti Newton glass that is slipped over the condenser , but these are difficult to find. If your 1c lacks it - you can "build up" a slight elevation by putting a couple of layers of masking tape on the carrier as this will keep the bottom of the condenser from pushing too hard against the negative.
The grain focuser is not necessary - but it is way to check focus when you are out of Autofocus range.
Calibrating the 1c is not difficult and I prefer doing using paper and a cross hatched negative. Just take a piece of exposed film and scratch a grid pattern on it (about 2-3 mm" squares). Put it in the enlarger and check the focus - this will give some idea of any alignment problems too. Find the calibration on the Internet- must be there somewhere. Once you got it set up and tested, one sheet at sharpest focus you can find and do one slightly "tweaked: and then another one in the opposite direction. It does help if you can put a piece of blue gel in the filter drawer as the paper is more sensitive to blue light. Once processed look at the image and see which is the sharpest and correct the "blade" on the lens helloed. A bit tedious but barring unforeseen accidents it should stay in focus for a long term. Also check that the head is in the correct position for the easel. 1C's are usually set for 1" easel thickness. Again refer to the manual.
The 2c is an entirely different animal, heavy, solid and of course capable of doing 120 negs as well as 35mm. The two lenses slide across the light pass and you shift the lens with the "clamp". The set up is controlled by a Bowden Cable the shifts the lens board and the roller on the focussing cam (usually accompanied by a loud "bang" when the lens mount drops! Again you are better off doing test prints for sharpness.The Auto Focus" is locked in with the two spring clamps (one for each lens) and once you get to where you want it -just tighten the screws that hold the spring clamps.
A word of warning: NEVER unscrew the lens mount helicoid! It has a very fine thread and finding the right stating point again is a long and tedious process, If you want to take lenses out - hold on the focussing helicoid and unscrew the lens. Only time you really need to do that is to clean the rear element though. On the 2c the focussing cam curve is matched to the focal length of the two lenses (60mm and 95 or 100 mm). Installing a new lens means a rather tedious re-calibration of the focus cam.
As for voltage - both the 1c/2c can be used with 110 or 220 volt. Only thing you need to change is the bulp and power plug. I think the V35 has its own power supply so that might be different (it was long time since is used one).
Both the 1c and the 2c have a plug at the top of the post - I bypass that one and run a standard power cord from the timer to the enlarger. I found out that the old clutch wrapped cords going down through the metal uprights usually have disintegrated - and you can have an interesting experience touching the post as you are fumbling in the dark! Been there, Done that - no T-shirt though.
Both the 1c and the 2c are among the best enlargers ever made. Virtually impossible to wear out, even light pattern. OK. on the 2c when you are printing smaller than 8-10" you tend to lean in and just look at the image on the easel - and your forehead is right in line with the handle on the head. Keeps you focussed though!
Good luck and enjoy the best enlargers made!
