Leica M loading just plain rocks!

Ruhayat said:
Can I just say, after 3 years of owning and using the Leica M, coming across some articles or forum posts that complain about the "bothersome" bottom loading, and then having owned and used several back-loading cameras (rangefinders and SLRs), that in my not so humble opinion the bottom loading mechanism is still the best and the most reliable? Back loaders are just fiddly and sometimes they drive me nuts because the film wouldn't take and you still need two hands to get it to feed properly, like the one on the Pentax MX, for example.

I just wanted to say that. For the record.

Thank you.:D

EDIT: Well, I'd just read a professional review of the M7 vs the Ikon where the reviewer commented how the Ikon's backloading system was an improvement over the M's. I beg to differ. Hence, I started this thread.
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I fully agree. Even old screwmounts are easy with just a little practice.
Loading an M is basically dropping the film in and closing the base. Just make sure you watch the rewing button moving when the shutter is cocked.
I always pays off to do hands-on training, like loading machine guns
 
I made this video of reloading an Ikon a few years ago ... and I reload my OM's exactly the same way. The actual process of removing the exposed film, reloading and advancing to the first frame takes about twenty seconds in this clip.

I'm not saying the M2 is difficult (I have one and have never had any difficulty) but it's not as seamless as a well designed rear door camera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uU7WDRs9BCU
 
goodtimes said:
Loading an M is basically dropping the film in and closing the base. Just make sure you watch the rewing button moving when the shutter is cocked.
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Loading a bottom-loading camera means opening the bottom, putting it somewhere, pulling out the film leader, dropping the end of the film leader into the spool, dropping the canister into the other slot, closing the bottom again, cocking the shutter a bit while watching the rewind, and advancing the film a frame or two.

Loading a back-loading camera basically means opening the back, dropping the end of the film leader in the spool, cocking the shutter a bit while watching the spool, pulling out the film leader by the canister, dropping the canister into the slot, closing the back again, and advancing the film a frame or two.

So where is the big advantage of either?
 
I don't get this thing about where to put the baseplate. Am I the only Leica user with a bag? Pockets? A waistband in his swimming trunks? Are the rest of you running around naked?
 
JSU said:
I used to have misloads necessitating starting over until I taught myself the technique of folding the last perforation on the leader.

I find it also makes a difference to have perforations engaging both sides of the drive cog.

The most important issue with any film camera with a rewind knob or crank is to observe the unwinding of the film as it advances.
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Now I do this as well with my m5 (since about 5 years). Have not had a slip since starting to do so but have had plenty over the years.
I still find a camera with a swinging rear door easier and faster to load.
Anyone who says loading the Leica style is easier or faster is only trying to convince themselves this is the case.
What if Leica made a 6x9 RF ala... Fuji GW-series. What would the solution have been? :D

All that said it's hard not to appreciate the Solid body and lack of light seal maintenance with the Leica. Not sure it's worth the extra hassle though. Purist will disagree.
 
this morning i swapped out a roll of tri x for a roll of gold 400 in about 45 seconds while standing and also holding my briefcase.

considering that's only my 3rd or so roll through my leica M3 i'd say it was pretty painless.
 
rxmd said:
Loading a bottom-loading camera means opening the bottom, putting it somewhere, pulling out the film leader, dropping the end of the film leader into the spool, dropping the canister into the other slot, closing the bottom again, cocking the shutter a bit while watching the rewind, and advancing the film a frame or two.

Loading a back-loading camera basically means opening the back, dropping the end of the film leader in the spool, cocking the shutter a bit while watching the spool, pulling out the film leader by the canister, dropping the canister into the slot, closing the back again, and advancing the film a frame or two.

So where is the big advantage of either?
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One can load a back-loading camera without having to out a piece away. With the M3 it's more difficult unless one manages to hold the baseplate between two fingers while attaching the leader to the spool. I used to do that but it was fiddly esp when walking simultaneously (and not just because I'm a man lol)

With the quick load it's imho easier. I have the film in the left hand, camera in the right. Remove the baseplate with the left hand while holding roll. Drop the roll into the camera as i pull the leader until it reaches the take-up fangs. Attache the plate, advance the film half a frame, tense it a bit using the rewinder, advance the rest. This I can do walking and without havig to put anything away.
 
why not just put the base plate in your pocket and hold the camera out taut using the strap like a stabilizer? works for the m3 anyway.
 
Yes, I'm a great believer in making use of clever inventions like pockets (when I'm not running around naked). I find my M2 and IIIf will hang on the strap upside down quite nicely, with no need to keep anything taut.
 
You just need the right SLR. I have loaded my old OM-1 on a dead run and I bet I was faster than anyone loading an M, period.
 
JSU said:
The most important issue with any film camera with a rewind knob or crank is to observe the unwinding of the film as it advances.
Click to expand...

I sure agree with that. I taught myself to watch for that 20 years ago and I've had a few rolls fail to catch (on the M6 and on various Nikons), but I've never shot an empty roll.
 
For quickly loading the Leica M6 and similar-loading devices-models I just pull the film leading edge all the way so that it actually passes the 3 teeth rotating catcher; this provides a secure holding of the edge since the portion of film out of the catcher folds up as soon as it rotates during the shutter arming motion. Easier to do than explain I think.
 
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