Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Let's see . . . Compared to my M6 or MP? I like that the M5 has more accurately sized framelines for normal (not closeup) distances. Especially true of the 50mm frameline. The OP mentioned street photography, and might want to use a 50mm. THe M5 framelines are accurate to the same extent as those of the M2, M3, and M4. The M6 framelines are set for the minimum 0.7M distance, which makes them too small at any distance greater than the minimum 0.7M.
And the M5 meter is a semi-spot meter, which can be great when you need to pick up a reading without interference from a nearby area that is too light or too dark. Outside of that, the M6 meter is really quite decent and does permit some selective-area reading as well.
The accuracy of the M5 shutter speed mechanism is improved over earlier models. Leitz explained the missing 1 second shutter time by saying they had to leave it off in order to improve the accuracy of the other speeds.
The M5 still has the hard metal eyepiece guaranteed to scratch your expensive eyeglasses. If you wear glasses, and want to use a 35mm lens, get an M6 with 0.58 finder. And if you want to use a 28mm, I suggest an M6, again with 0.58 finder. I know, some people can use the M5 with a 28mm. I am not among them. By the way, the M6 28mm frameline is very accurate at the medium to long distances at which I shoot.
Batteries? Use either a Wein air cell, or a cris adapter; or get Sherry to recalibrate the meter for use with alkaline cells. She will send you a couple alkalines with the camera if you choose than option. I went that route when she recalibrated my MR-4 meter. With my M5, I use the Weins or the cris, which reduces a regular silver oxide 1.5V cell down to the 1.35 volts of the old mercury batteries.
Oh, the camera is too heavy? It is heavier. Whether too heavy, well, that is a judgement call. Remember, extra weight is extra stability.
I can't wrap this up without mentioning the shutter speed dial that falls right under your fingertip. You can quickly set the shutter speed without moving your trigger finger more than 1/2 inch from the shutter release button. I know one Frenchman who won't use anything but an M5 for that reason.
So there's your fair and balanced review.
And the M5 meter is a semi-spot meter, which can be great when you need to pick up a reading without interference from a nearby area that is too light or too dark. Outside of that, the M6 meter is really quite decent and does permit some selective-area reading as well.
The accuracy of the M5 shutter speed mechanism is improved over earlier models. Leitz explained the missing 1 second shutter time by saying they had to leave it off in order to improve the accuracy of the other speeds.
The M5 still has the hard metal eyepiece guaranteed to scratch your expensive eyeglasses. If you wear glasses, and want to use a 35mm lens, get an M6 with 0.58 finder. And if you want to use a 28mm, I suggest an M6, again with 0.58 finder. I know, some people can use the M5 with a 28mm. I am not among them. By the way, the M6 28mm frameline is very accurate at the medium to long distances at which I shoot.
Batteries? Use either a Wein air cell, or a cris adapter; or get Sherry to recalibrate the meter for use with alkaline cells. She will send you a couple alkalines with the camera if you choose than option. I went that route when she recalibrated my MR-4 meter. With my M5, I use the Weins or the cris, which reduces a regular silver oxide 1.5V cell down to the 1.35 volts of the old mercury batteries.
Oh, the camera is too heavy? It is heavier. Whether too heavy, well, that is a judgement call. Remember, extra weight is extra stability.
I can't wrap this up without mentioning the shutter speed dial that falls right under your fingertip. You can quickly set the shutter speed without moving your trigger finger more than 1/2 inch from the shutter release button. I know one Frenchman who won't use anything but an M5 for that reason.
So there's your fair and balanced review.
