Leica M6 Classics

ferider said:
the meter is spot on (with a fresh battery)
just stops working earlier than with the other body when it gets dark.

I am pretty sure that there was actually a one EV change in the meter sensitivity specs in the Leitz/Leica catalogs at some point during M6 classic production.
 
i just talked to Sherry Krauter about my two M6's. She said that she favors the Leitz models over the Leica models because Leica started cutting costs later in production.

Also, she said that the problem persisted with the TTL models, so if a shooter doesn't use flash, she always recommends getting a classic.
 
yeah, tempted to get a 75mm and outfit the second body with it. who knows, maybe i'll like a two body shooting style. thanks for all of the suggestions.
 
Ok, we're all getting our wires crossed, but not in a "radical" way, I guess.

Ferider: ah. 😱

Magus: I didn't say you were saying they were unreliable.

lic4: I just read the page you provided; I'm still confused. I don't know how you inferred:
I've heard that the later models have plastic parts; I wasn't sure if this is the case, and are hence, less reliable.

How did you infer that with the information provided on the page you've just shown? By the mere mentioning of the word "plastic"? My photo chemical bottles are therefore utterly unreliable.
 
Gabriel, Gandy had these comments in the pages, not sure if you read them:

"About 1996/97 plastic parts replaced metal parts in the frame counter, resulting in increased breakdowns. Unfortunately, Leica has not revealed the exact point of these changes. Apparently the problem has since been corrected."
-and-
"Frame Counter has light edge to round dial, shinier silver finish, larger arrow indicator. Could this indicate the change from metal to plastic frame counter parts?"

S. Krauter also confirms the switch to plastic parts in the late production M6, and so she recommends earlier models. In fact, based on the first three serial numbers, she can predict the specific problems your camera will have b/c of her experience dealing with M6 repairs.

And of course plastic is fine if it suits the purpose of the object--but,
A plastic mechanical watch?
A plastic jack hammer?
-I don't think so.

Plastic parts in the frame counter of a Leica?
-I really have no idea; that's why I started this thread.
 
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Err, to avoid any loathing, I wanted to add that I don't discredit the M6 b/c of these build questions; I have a late M6 and an early M6, and if I decide to keep only one, I want to know which one might last the longest and require the least amount of servicing. But I've heard these things outlive their owners, so you know, take this thread for what it's worth. I love the M6.
 
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I've got an mid M6 191XXXX, (1992) that is beat to Shiitake, looks like it rode around in a gravel truck for a while, but it runs absolutely fine. My M5 (1973) was quite neglected- lots of rust inside, but still worked fine. After a CLA the M5 is incredibly smooth. The M6 will get a CLA soon, and I'm expecting it to be the same. My point is that these things are made to last- these are not Canon Rebels, and they will run even if abused, and when they don't run anymore can usually be put right. I'd keep 'em both, it's so much more fun with two ( 😉 Gabriel) but if you only need one, spend some of the money from the sale on treating your keeper to a complete CLA. It will be wonderful for ten years.
 
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