Leica M6 vs M4

[Ben Z]

I bought my M4 around 1970, as the years went on I got an M6, then sold it for an M7 and sold that for an MP. Today I mostly use the M8, but the one M film body I still own is the one I kept all through the years, the M4. I had it completely overhauled by DAG, and have a refurbished MR4 meter on it. The M4 has everything I need plus the fit and finish from a bygone era of craftsmanship.

 

[barnwulf]

I have M4 and a M6 and I use the M6 almost all the time partly because I use a 28mm lens most of the time. I don't need the light meter but at times it can be very nice to have. Yesterday I was shooting and a lot of small clouds came over and blocked the sun for 15 seconds or so and then full sun again. The light was changing so fast that it was very frustrating. The exposures were all over the place. I was using the M4 and I was wishing I had the M6. Some perfer the M3, some the M2, some the M5. The one you want is the best one. I too was attracted to the M4 because of it's long heritage of use by a lot of famous photographers. When I am shooting, I am not thinking about heritage or anything but shooting and I want the one that performs best for me and that's the M6. Good luck on your decision! - Jim

 

[Pico]

Except for the self-timer/light-meter trade-off between them, the cameras are identical as to operation and handling.

Don't the M4 and M6 shutter dials turn in opposite directions?

 

[barnwulf]

Pico, I have the M6 "classic" and the shutter speed dial turns the same direction as the M4. M6 TTL and the M7 turn the opposite direction. - Jim

 

[ferider]

Beside meter, the biggest difference in handling between M2/M4 and M6 is the size of the 35 and 50mm framelines. Like this (for 50mm):

On the M6, this can be a good thing if you use a DR Summicron.

Roland.

 

[ampguy]

Here's the official Hipster guide to Leicas coolness:

Add up the yes's to the following questions:

1. Made in Germany?
2. No meter?
3. Black paint?
4. Body cost more than the lens?
5. pimped out aftermarket junk installed?
6. Black dot?
7. Electrical tape applied?
8. modded Timbuk2 bag?
9. filter on lens?
10. no film in camera?

8-10 = High Leica Hipster Value
6-8 = Medium Leica Hipster Value
< 6 = you need to work on this Leica Hipster thing a bit ...

 

[ampguy]

In actuality, these framings will result in the same prints

In actuality, these framings will result in the same prints

With film, your 3/2 image processed by walgreens to 4x6 is going to self-correct the slight frameline differences. Give it a try.

Beside meter, the biggest difference in handling between M2/M4 and M6 is the size of the 35 and 50mm framelines. Like this (for 50mm):

On the M6, this can be a good thing if you use a DR Summicron.

Roland.

 

[ferider]

I print at home.

 

[ampguy]

Ok

Ok

but seriously, in my experience, with M4ps M6 .72s at that distance, on the negative, your M6 is going to have most everything seen in your M2 framelines at that distance, right?

Or is the M4 different from M4P VF??

I print at home.

 

[semilog]

Here's the official Hipster guide to Leicas coolness:

Add up the yes's to the following questions:
...
9. filter on lens?

What kind of filter? UV? Polarizer? Grad? Orange?

 

[semilog]

1. Made in Germany?
no.

2. No meter?
no.

3. Black paint?
no.

4. Body cost more than the lens?
yes. (sold the Summilux ASPH).

5. pimped out aftermarket junk installed?
no.

6. Black dot?
no.

7. Electrical tape applied?
yes, over the stupid red dot. Too cheap to buy a black dot.

8. modded Timbuk2 bag?
no. Tom Bihn bag, Tenba insert.

9. filter on lens?
orange.

10. no film in camera?
contains Neopan.

8-10 = High Leica Hipster Value
6-8 = Medium Leica Hipster Value
< 6 = you need to work on this Leica Hipster thing a bit ...[/QUOTE]

Only +2 or +3, +4 if I'm generous. Sigh.

 

[ampguy]

any

any

it's not a trick question.

What kind of filter? UV? Polarizer? Grad? Orange?

 

[Roger Hicks]

I shoot E-6 and would not want a cam without a meter. This is the 21st century after all. People trust flying "by wire", laptops, PDAs, etc. A camera with a meter is no big. The M4s come with a lot of mileage anyway.

They DO?

Cheers,

R.

 

[ampguy]

there is hope

there is hope

Here's how I figure is the easiest way to get you into high hipster value:

get a shutter screw in dealy, in the mean time, maybe you can fake it with a proper sized big head screw. Maybe paint the head.

take the film out

check the outlet section of rei.com, you might be able to pick up a MIC timbuk2 bag from last year at a big discount

😀

1. Made in Germany?
no.

2. No meter?
no.

3. Black paint?
no.

4. Body cost more than the lens?
yes. (sold the Summilux ASPH).

5. pimped out aftermarket junk installed?
no.

6. Black dot?
no.

7. Electrical tape applied?
yes, over the stupid red dot. Too cheap to buy a black dot.

8. modded Timbuk2 bag?
no. Tom Bihn bag, Tenba insert.

9. filter on lens?
orange.

10. no film in camera?
contains Neopan.

8-10 = High Leica Hipster Value
6-8 = Medium Leica Hipster Value
< 6 = you need to work on this Leica Hipster thing a bit ...

Only +2 or +3, +4 if I'm generous. Sigh.[/QUOTE]

 

[ferider]

Or is the M4 different from M4P VF??

Depends. Early M4P (recessed windows) have the same framelines as the M4. Later M4P have M6 framelines.

There is another difference: M2, M4 and M4-2 90mm framelines are easier to use than M6. At least for me.

It's a personal thing. All Leicas are created equal, and best is to try before deciding on preference.

Roland.

 

[PMCC]

This thread was destined from the start to go the way of all wankster comparisons, namely from the sublime to the ridiculmouse.

 

[35mmdelux]

Don't the M4 and M6 shutter dials turn in opposite directions?

yea, but it really doesnt matter. Except maybe to a pro of yesteryear.