Leica owner casts his eye on an Electro

OurManInTangier

An Undesirable
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Ok so I've heard grand things about these Yashica Electro cameras. I also remember seeing some very striking images taken with one but what is IT that makes these cameras so popular?

I don't remember much about the images I saw but it was as if there was an innate quality of the lens or something that gave the images their own...I don't know, aura???

I'm tempted to pick one up, as they seem so cheap, and play around with it for some of my colour stuff. Can anyone give me any idea of;

1. What makes them so good?
2. The best film to use with them, preferably colour
3. Any tricks to get the best out of them or whether they're brilliant wide open etc etc etc

Thanks
 
You can pick up a Electro 35 for 30-50 USD in good shape and for that price it will give you fantastic pictures with great colours. My own feeling is that you can pick up any of the models GS, GSN, GT, GTN, CC and MG-1 and the lens and build quality is about the same. The CC is my favourite since you can easily get batteries that work and since the size is smaller and more compact. Try one out and I am sure you will like it!
Jon
 
OurManInTangier said:
Ok so I've heard grand things about these Yashica Electro cameras. I also remember seeing some very striking images taken with one but what is IT that makes these cameras so popular?

I don't remember much about the images I saw but it was as if there was an innate quality of the lens or something that gave the images their own...I don't know, aura???

I'm tempted to pick one up, as they seem so cheap, and play around with it for some of my colour stuff. Can anyone give me any idea of;

1. What makes them so good?
2. The best film to use with them, preferably colour
3. Any tricks to get the best out of them or whether they're brilliant wide open etc etc etc

Thanks

They're basically free, pays to spring an extra $10-20 to get one that's been serviced, imo, rather than take a chance...

Here's my "take"... I shoot mainly with a 50, favorite focal length, so a 45mm fixed lens doesn't bother me one bit. The 1.7 Yashinon is a great lens, fast, sharp nice signature - subjective. My take again - it's pretty hard to mess up a fast 50. Any marquee camera co - German or Japanese, had this down by the 60's/70's and wasn't going to put out a crappy one. It takes as good a pic as any rangefinder but you're not paying for any "name" cachet, coolness factor, they were such great cameras and such great values they sold by the boatload without much design change so they're cheap, cheap, cheap on the used market. "Classics" - the Leicas, Nikon "S"'s, Canon "P"'s are great cameras but overvalued because they're also collectibles. Electros are also great cameras but undervalued - manufactured, I believe, into the millions. The viewfinder - if clean, is perfectly usable even in low light. Tough it's not as bright as a Leica, the difference in cost based on such a luxury isn't nearly worth the cost differential. Usable = usable.

1. What makes them so good?
Very fast to use. Pre-meter using top plate over/under light, pre-focus with scale, refine focus in viewfinder - fire. Silent shutter, can meter in low light and keep its stepless shutter open up to 30 secs, almost spooky accurate meter, and more sensitive, for its era. Aperture priortiy for precise control over DOF, others shutter priority. Ability to use fill flash, synchs at all speeds. Parrallax corrected viewfinder. Film rating up to 1000, others 800 or 400. Excellent fast glass. ... all from $0 to $60 (serviced). That don't buy a Leica lens cap.

2. Best Film
Your favorite. I'm partial to Kodak UC 400 for color, and BW "faves" too numerous to mention.

3. Tricks...
Don't let the lack of shutter speed or lack of cachet bug you. Just shoot. It's built for speed and I'll go out on a limb and say it takes pics as good as anything else commanding higher dollar values there.

I sometimes ask myself, why not break down and get a Leica or a Nikon S or a this or a that... Then I come to my senses and realize the differences in quality are negligible. If I really am going for the highest quality I don't with shoot small format camera. Most of the alleged quality differences between a no-cachet humble "GSN" and a muy cachet (fill in the blank) are in the mind of the user.
 
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When shooting with the GSN, do you all usually shoot at the aperture when the over/under arrows go out or do you go past that?

Say, the LEDs go out at 8, but you want to get more OOF so you click it one over to 5.6. The LEDs are still out so does that mean a "correct" exposure is still in effect?

EDIT: Never mind, I found my answer at Yashica Guy's website: "In ALL cases when neither light comes on, conditions for a good shot exist."
 
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OurManInTangier said:
3. Any tricks to get the best out of them or whether they're brilliant wide open etc etc etc

Thanks

One trick is manipulating the aperture priority operation by changing film speeds on the dial to "trick" the meter. IF you have a scene where the background is primarily dark, and you have a rather small, bright subject your meter will generally give you an overexposure of your subject, but you can select a faster film speed on the dial to decrease the exposure of the film at your "true" speed.
 
Good comments so far, here are my additions:

- Unbelievably good for the money. The Yashica G series is a cult camera here.

- Controls are silkly smooth. The aperture ring and shutter release are unprecedented, IMO.

- It is aperture priority, but the meter doesn't tell you what shutter speed it's going to use. Some count this as a disadvantage. In practice, it isn't an issue if you know how they work. For example, if you want a slow shutter speed, you'll use a smaller aperture.

- The published spec for the lowest shutter speed is 30s. However, there are many people who say that it will go a lot lower than that.

- Although the ASA dial can be rotated to give exposure compensation, it isn't a quick change to make. That dial is very small, there's not a lot of area to grab onto, and the click detents are stiff. It can be done, but if you think you'll need to do it a LOT, you might want to consider another camera.

- The battery it uses is a real oddball. (a 5.4 V mercury, wider than a AA, but not as long) However, the electronics inside compensate for voltage, so that if you buy a 6 V alkaline, silver, or lithium battery and adapt it somehow to fit length-wise, it will still work accurately.

- The lens is coated, but not multicoated, so either be careful about flare or use a hood. Because of this mono-coating, contrast isn't as good as on other, more modern lenses.

- The leaf shutter is sweet in this camera. It is very silent and vibration-free. I would say that because of this, the camera's bulk, the fast lens, the electronic shutter, and the super-smooth shutter release, this is the ultimate low-light camera. If you are used to Leicas, you will find that this shutter makes the Leicas seem noisy and crude. If you do panning action shots, you will find the leaf shutter doesn't stretch the subject out like a horizontally-travelling focal plane shutter.

- If you like the idea of this camera, but want manual control and don't need the long shutter speeds, you might look for a Konica Auto S2 instead. Most people like the lens at least as much, it has metered manual, shows apertures in its auto mode, and is even more beefy. The film advance is more ergonomic but louder. The shutter speed dial on the S2 is nowhere near as smooth as the aperture dial on the Yashica G series. This is usually the case, as the shutter speed mechanics require more effort to move than aperture mechanics. The top-deck light meter and viewfinder light meter BOTH show aperture.

- With the Yashica G series, here are what the acronyms mean:
G - "Grade Up" (from previous Yashicas, apparently)
S - Chrome
T - Black
N - Hot shoe
CC - Compact camera (this model has a 35mm lens instead of 45mm)

- My GS (and I assume all G series Yashicas) has a knurled plastic nub on each side of the focusing ring, which I find more ergonomic than the single stub that protrudes from most other fixed-lens rangefinders.

- The aluminum filter threads can't take a hit AT ALL without bending. Be careful here.

- I believe that this camera is the perfect way to carry a normal lens when you're carrying your Leica stuff. Keep the normal lens on here, and have either a short tele or a true wide angle on the Leica body. Then, you don't miss the shot while you fumble around with your lenses.

- These have a true shutter release lock-out. Very useful when you want to keep it "cocked & locked" without worrying about tripping it while it is in the bag.

- They look old & antiquated; people won't take you seriously. They'll think you're poor and primitive. This can be an advantage. Get a nice 1970s "banjo strap" for this, wear your Hawaiian floral print shirt, and revel in the glory of being treated as a tourist who doesn't know what he's doing. These banjo straps are also good for hanging the camera around a tree trunk and setting the self-timer for impromptu self-portraits!

- The light meter is not in the lens barrel, so you'll have to correct for filter exposures using the ASA dial.

- Color print film? I don't touch the stuff. Color = digital for me. When shooting B&W, I pick something contrasty, to make up for the mono-coated lens. (Tri-X, Plus-X) That, or I plan on boosting it with grade filters in the enlarger. The tabular grain films don't do as well in this camera, in my experience.

- The viewfinder in this camera shows more area outside the framelines than any other FLRF I've seen.
 
not so objective answers to questions......

1. the metering oh boy the metering I have got good exposures in all sorts of situations including several seconds

2. a film that highlights green and blues works well in my neck of the woods ( the northwest ) I buy the fuji superia extra 400 speed it's cheap and easily and compentently processed localy also ilford xp2 super is nice

3. lens hood, lens hood, lens hood did I say lens hood, not that in my experiance the lens is prone to flare but It helps to get every little bit out of it

O.k like I said not so objective opinons on this camera and one more thing spring for a gt cause it looks sooo nice
Robert
 
Some very interesting points made here, thanks for all the comments.

I'm looking to get another M body at some point as they just seem to work so well for me but you'd be a fool to overlook a quality camera at such prices. I agree its worth paying a little extra to get one in decent condition, as for looking like a tourist/clueless snapper....it seems no-one takes any notice of RF'ers, at least not of me anyway.

I'll check out Yashica Guy's website and do a bit of research before I buy but hopefully I'll have a second RF body soon!!
 
Nikola
You read my mind, the Lynx 14 is everything the Gs are as well as fully manual and the lens is a 1.4. These aren't comact cameras but wonderful to use. Their only drawback can be a not so bright veiwfinder but a CLA can usualy fix that. I have 3 as well as a GSN and GT.
 
A couple things about the Lynx's:

1) They're just manual, right?
2) What's the slowest shutter speed? 1/2s?
3) They're a lot more rare than G's, which means not so cheap, and harder to find in good shape.
 
I got my start with a YE35GS and have been chasing the feeling of excitement since.. I mostly use my R3A now, but the YE35 is like jumping into a Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic.. It's just easy, and you know it's going to work.

I still want an M6, but I know I'll still use the YE35 because it's just less thinking required.

It's all about aperture priority. Both my YE35 and Voigtlander R3A have AP and I am addicted to it. The heft and physical size make it nice for available light. As rudimentary as the meter in the thing is, it is really accurate, almost out to a minute!

I have six of these cameras and they all have 'issues' ranging from a low contrast rangefinder patch to dented lens barrels to not working correctly... Therefore, to fully enjoy them like I do, you'd have to get one that's in good condition. I use my GS more than the two GSNs I have.

410820636_bcb5ae949b.jpg
 
Jeremy Z said:
A couple things about the Lynx's:

1) They're just manual, right?
2) What's the slowest shutter speed? 1/2s?
3) They're a lot more rare than G's, which means not so cheap, and harder to find in good shape.

1. Yes - 100% manual.
2. 1 second
3. Pretty common actually. I got mine for $2.39 on the bay from a Goodwill. No other bidders. Non-functional upon receipt, G-man brought it back to life.

As an aside, I pay extra at auction for serviced cameras from reputable sellers or have them repaired/CLA'd. Only one vintage rangefinder I've ever purchased didn't need work, the Electro CC. My take is these cameras are so inexpensive and undervalued that it's way worth it to get them back up to spec and functioning and have a "non-frustrating" user that works as good as new.
 
Simon,
I just cheked your photos: I think you will shoot amazing good pictures with your Yashica too. the camera is always the second thing. But one advice try to use it in low light conditions and places where you have to be really quiet.

And just another additional info: the yashica mechanical slr's are very good cameras too. On the other hand my favourite yashica f3 super 2000 slr sound is so loud, I can't use it in churches or in silent places. So recently I'm going with the electro and the fx. A rangefinder and an slr. The slr is smaller... 😉
 
I'm very lucky, PlantedTao is sending me his GSN as he doesn't use it anymore, all for the cost of his expenses and a print of one of my pics(!?!)

I'm very much looking forward to its arrival, though I'll get it checked out and up to scratch as it hasn't been used for a couple of years.

I'll make sure I put it through its paces and see what it can do.
 
Simon, I recently picked up an immaculate Electro 35 for about $25 and have run a couple of rolls through it. I am very impressed with the "feel", lens quality and overall results. It quickly became "easy" to use, then outright fun. I also have a Contax T2 which is a more compact but has vignetting problems that the Yashice doesn't have. Here are a few shots that came out of those rolls:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=59416&ppuser=2655
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=58929&ppuser=2655
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=55742&ppuser=2655
 
Very, very nice work Tuna. Usually don't like "cat by the window" shots (though I have taken more than a few of these m'self) but that one is brilliant. All of them are. Tellin ya, ya can't beat this camera for the price, imo. Everytime I get "Canon P" or Leica M lust I look at the cost of these things, realize I'll pay - I dunno, $500 - $1000 (guessing) for a good body/lens combo - just a name 50mm, and I just can't justify the cost over the GSN.
 
OurManInTangier said:
Ok so I've heard grand things about these Yashica Electro cameras. I also remember seeing some very striking images taken with one but what is IT that makes these cameras so popular?

I don't remember much about the images I saw but it was as if there was an innate quality of the lens or something that gave the images their own...I don't know, aura???

I'm tempted to pick one up, as they seem so cheap, and play around with it for some of my colour stuff. Can anyone give me any idea of;

1. What makes them so good?
2. The best film to use with them, preferably colour
3. Any tricks to get the best out of them or whether they're brilliant wide open etc etc etc

Thanks

Sorry to go against the grain here, but I've owned and used Leica and Yashica fixed lens RF, and the two are in no way remotely comparable in terms of construction quality. I predict you will be dissapointed. The Yashica optics are fairly good on the faster lenses, but the mechanics can be best described as consumer grade and targeted for low cost mass production. They are often frought will the usual problems of old cameras as well: iris problems, electrical failures, battery issues, jammed controls, abuse, etc. On the other hand they are cheap, so there's not too much to lose.
 
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