Leica R on Nikon F, share your experience

[bayernfan]

I understand that the Leica R mount has a slightly longer lens registration than Nikon F (0.5 mm), permitting infinity focus on a Nikon body. However, due to very close registration figures, the Leica R rear mount has to be removed and replaced with an adapted rear mount.

I also understand that there are relatively few options in terms of adapting. The fairly expensive Leitax adapters and the more economically priced fotodiox pro adapters.

My real question is: does anyone have first-hand experience with this setup (Leica R lens on Nikon body)? I've got two Nikon film bodies (F4 and FE2) that I thoroughly enjoy using, but I much prefer the Leica lens rendering to Nikon. Thoughts, suggestions, advice... all appreciated.

 

[Dralowid]

My son purloined my 560 Telyt and replaced the Leitz flange with a Nikon fit one he had bought from somewhere, seemed easy to do, just a few screws and was entirely effective but remember that this is a completely manual lens, no aperture link etc.

Didn't get the lens back for months but when I did, turning it back to R was no problem.

 

[jarski]

used this as my everyday camera back in 2009:

on Nikon FE, R-lens is bit more front heavy than same specced Nikkors, but I liked the results. Leitax conversion was relatively easy to make, and didn't think the adapter very expensive. eventually I preferred Nikkors so camera body can control the aperture, unlike with adapted lenses.

 

[Rayt]

I had a D700 and converted a few R lenses with Leitax adapters. Most R lenses will clear the mirror. The Leitax site has a list. The conversion is easy to do. I sold the Nikon and reconverted the lenses back to R mount with no hassle at all. I still have the Leitax somewhere. I shoot film and have been itching to reconvert a few lenses to use with an F6.

 

[Godfrey]

In general, I prefer to use Nikon lenses on Nikon cameras to get the benefit of auto-diaphragm and meter coupling.

I bought the Leitax kit to adapt my Elmar-R 180mm f/4, because it's such a nice light lens with such beautiful rendering qualities. However, shortly afterwards I saw an excellent deal on a Nikon 180mm f/2.8 AF-D ED-IF and decided to give it a try .. It's lighter than I thought it might be (previous experience was with the Nikkor 180/2.8 ED AI-S), and proves a superb performer. So I've put the Leitax conversion on the back burner ...

Maybe, if the same Leitax mounting flange fits, I'll convert my 1964 Summicron-R 50mm f/2 instead. It's a lovely old lens and is only single cam so it doesn't meter couple even with my Leicaflex SL or Leica R8. The other possible is to convert the Summicron-R 90mm f/2 but I like the Nikkor-H 85mm f/1.8 it's hard to imagine why I'd do so to end up with a fully manual lens.

G

 

[mfogiel]

I am doing precisely this - putting Leitax adapters on Leica R Mandler lenses, as after much back and forth testing, I have decised I like the Mandler glass best. There are two things to consider:
- with ordinary (leitax or not) adapters, you lose the auto aperture, but Leitax makes now a "preset" adapter, that with a bit of practice lets you focus wide open, and closes the aperture to the selected stop just before the shot. This let's you use the lens across all apertures without losing the framing
- you should test modified lenses against the body you want to use them on, in particular it is difficult to match the 50mm summilux v 1 or 2. For this reason the ideal body is F3, as you can try multiple screens to find one that works best.
I am using 35mm Elmarit v2 for close up, 50mm summicron v1, summilux v2, summilux 80, summicron 90 and elmarit 135 mainly for portraiture, and the macro elmarit 60 for a bit of everything, as this lens is truly versatile and outstanding.
Last thing: if you only want sharp, you will probably be better served with Zeiss ZF line, the Mandler glass has a magic of its own which often plays out best in the bokeh.

 

[FrankS]

I was thinking of doing this, but instead I'll just use my 50 Summicron R on the SL it came with.

 

[Calzone]

I am doing precisely this - putting Leitax adapters on Leica R Mandler lenses, as after much back and forth testing, I have decised I like the Mandler glass best. There are two things to consider:
- with ordinary (leitax or not) adapters, you lose the auto aperture, but Leitax makes now a "preset" adapter, that with a bit of practice lets you focus wide open, and closes the aperture to the selected stop just before the shot. This let's you use the lens across all apertures without losing the framing
- you should test modified lenses against the body you want to use them on, in particular it is difficult to match the 50mm summilux v 1 or 2. For this reason the ideal body is F3, as you can try multiple screens to find one that works best.
I am using 35mm Elmarit v2 for close up, 50mm summicron v1, summilux v2, summilux 80, summicron 90 and elmarit 135 mainly for portraiture, and the macro elmarit 60 for a bit of everything, as this lens is truly versatile and outstanding.
Last thing: if you only want sharp, you will probably be better served with Zeiss ZF line, the Mandler glass has a magic of its own which often plays out best in the bokeh.

I actually am using the Leitax adapter that is mentioned above. In practice it is like using a perspective control lens where a lever toggles between wide open and the set aperture when depressed. This makes it easier to deal with the stop down metering and the term "almost auto-aperture" is not an exaggeration. It makes setting focus and exposure almost seamless.

I use a 50 Lux "E60" which perhaps is the exception to what Marek suggests above (sharp latest version, post-Mandler I think) that is both sharp and reminds me of Noctilux bokeh.

Godfrey's point is also well taken. Because I'm lazy I mostly use my Noct-Nikkor on my F3P and D3X.

Cal

 

[Godfrey]

...
- you should test modified lenses against the body you want to use them on, in particular it is difficult to match the 50mm summilux v 1 or 2. For this reason the ideal body is F3, as you can try multiple screens to find one that works best. ...

I use the A screen in both the F6 and the F ... I like the simple matte fresnel field with split image focusing aid for manual focus lenses shorter than 50mm.

I don't know whether Nikon has any available for the D750 and other DSLR models, but there is a third party supplier that might:
http://www.focusingscreen.com/index.php

G

 

[bayernfan]

First, thanks all that have responded. I was looking for this kind of feedback.

- with ordinary (leitax or not) adapters, you lose the auto aperture, but Leitax makes now a "preset" adapter, that with a bit of practice lets you focus wide open, and closes the aperture to the selected stop just before the shot. This let's you use the lens across all apertures without losing the framing

- you should test modified lenses against the body you want to use them on, in particular it is difficult to match the 50mm summilux v 1 or 2. For this reason the ideal body is F3, as you can try multiple screens to find one that works best.

Last thing: if you only want sharp, you will probably be better served with Zeiss ZF line, the Mandler glass has a magic of its own which often plays out best in the bokeh.

Mfogiel,

As you and others have mentioned, the loss of auto-aperture is something to consider. The Leitax preset adapter certainly sounds like something worth investigating.

The meter coupling isn't a deal breaker as I typically use a separate spot meter.

Both of my Nikon bodies have interchangeable focusing screens. The particular screens I'm using have been working very well for my manual focus lenses, so no issue there. (B3 in FE2 and Type B in F4)

Regarding Zeiss ZF lenses, I do not like the image they produce at all. My favorite lenses are 1950s-70s Leica designs.

 

[bayernfan]

I actually am using the Leitax adapter that is mentioned above. In practice it is like using a perspective control lens where a lever toggles between wide open and the set aperture when depressed. This makes it easier to deal with the stop down metering and the term "almost auto-aperture" is not an exaggeration. It makes setting focus and exposure almost seamless.

Thanks for sharing this info.

 

[Rayt]

The lost of auto aperture is not a big deal to me since I shoot street and usually wide open or one stop down anyway. The idea to convert 1 cam lenses is a good one since they are cheaper and don't work on R bodies.

 

[ZivcoPhoto]

I posted this a couple days ago on another thread - Nikon F2 and 50mm Summicron R 3 cam and Leitax adapter

[/url]Umm...Roses! by Atwood90, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[ZivcoPhoto]

[/url]LEITAX-D700-2 by Atwood90, on Flickr[/IMG]Here's one with D700 and 50mm Summicron R 3 cam

 

[ZivcoPhoto]

Another D700 50mm Summicron R 3 CAM

[/url]LEITAX-D700-4 by Atwood90, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[ZivcoPhoto]

...and another of the same

[/url]LEITAX-D700-3 by Atwood90, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[ZivcoPhoto]

..at this point I have F's thru F5 (9)...I really don't have any more room for a Leicaflex so the Leitax adapter works well anytime I want to use this superior glass. I have also converted a 90 mm Elmarit 3 Cam and I get excellent results with film or D700.

[/url]LEITAX-D700-5 by Atwood90, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[bayernfan]

The lost of auto aperture is not a big deal to me since I shoot street and usually wide open or one stop down anyway. The idea to convert 1 cam lenses is a good one since they are cheaper and don't work on R bodies.

Interesting, I shoot street stopped down from f/5.6 to f/16 on a 35mm lens. When you say wide open, what aperture are you talking about? Or what lens in particular?

 

[Rayt]

Interesting, I shoot street stopped down from f/5.6 to f/16 on a 35mm lens. When you say wide open, what aperture are you talking about? Or what lens in particular?

I don't think it matters which lens. Let's say all of them. I don't stop down unless I need the DOF. Outside of large format I don't think I have ever shot anything at f16 ever.

 

[ulrich.von.lich]

Sorry to hijack the thread but has someone experience with a Nikon body permanently converted to take Leica R lenses? Would it resolve the meter coupling problem? I would like to use the largest aperture for framing and to get a correctly exposed photo when I press the shutter button.

If so, I would like to get it done on an F3 or an FM3A, if I could find a person willing to do it.

I have seen pictures of a converted F3, but have no other information.