Jim Evidon
Jim
I have a GF-1 on order and will be buying a Leica M to M43 lens adapter.
Has anyone tried to fit the Leica Summicron DR 35mm on a GF-1?
I ask this because the DR lens has a barrel protrusion that goes into the body.
Obviously it works on the film Leica M bodies for which it is designed, but will not fit my Zeiss Ikon Z1 RF film body. How about on the Panny GF-1? I don't want to destroy the sensor on my first try.
Please advise.
Jim
Has anyone tried to fit the Leica Summicron DR 35mm on a GF-1?
I ask this because the DR lens has a barrel protrusion that goes into the body.
Obviously it works on the film Leica M bodies for which it is designed, but will not fit my Zeiss Ikon Z1 RF film body. How about on the Panny GF-1? I don't want to destroy the sensor on my first try.
Please advise.
Jim
PCB_RF
Established
The DR is a 50mm focal length, no?
Works fine on m4/3 w/adapter, as the offending cam doesn't protrude from the rear surface of the adapter.
You won't easily be able to use it in close-up mode unless you attach the goggles. Focus locks unless the goggles are installed.
I had a DR, worked fine, but I didn't have the goggles. I guess the goggles would fit OK on an EPx or GF1, since the adapter will move them forward and nothing on these bodies protrudes far enough.
Not sure if they'd fit on a G1/GH1/G10/G2. The grip could be in the way.
Works fine on m4/3 w/adapter, as the offending cam doesn't protrude from the rear surface of the adapter.
You won't easily be able to use it in close-up mode unless you attach the goggles. Focus locks unless the goggles are installed.
I had a DR, worked fine, but I didn't have the goggles. I guess the goggles would fit OK on an EPx or GF1, since the adapter will move them forward and nothing on these bodies protrudes far enough.
Not sure if they'd fit on a G1/GH1/G10/G2. The grip could be in the way.
Jim Evidon
Jim
As I said, it is a 35mm DR Summicron, but I doubt that the extension is any greater than for the 50mm DR Summi. Thanks for the reply.
Jim
Jim
PCB_RF
Established
There Is No 35mm DR Summicron...
There Is No 35mm DR Summicron...
Jim, there is no 35mm Dual Range Summicron. There are 35mm Leica lenses with goggles (35/3.5 Summaron, 35/2.8 Summaron and 35/2.0 Summaron), but the goggles only de-magnify the view through the finder, and compensate rf focusing for the change in finder magnification. They were originally designed to be used on an M3 without need for a separate shoe-mount viewfinder, but will work on all M bodies.
They are not designed to be used without the goggles (they won't focus accurately on a rangefinder without the goggles) and they do not have dual-range focusing mechanisms. They are typically referred to as "M3 versions" or just "goggled."
That all said, you could use a goggled 35mm lens on a GF1 without the goggles, since you're focusing through the lens and not through a view/rangefinder. You'll need to remove a couple of screws on a goggled 35mm Summicron, IIRC.
But the minimum focus of the 35mm Summicron will not change, goggles or no....
There Is No 35mm DR Summicron...
Jim, there is no 35mm Dual Range Summicron. There are 35mm Leica lenses with goggles (35/3.5 Summaron, 35/2.8 Summaron and 35/2.0 Summaron), but the goggles only de-magnify the view through the finder, and compensate rf focusing for the change in finder magnification. They were originally designed to be used on an M3 without need for a separate shoe-mount viewfinder, but will work on all M bodies.
They are not designed to be used without the goggles (they won't focus accurately on a rangefinder without the goggles) and they do not have dual-range focusing mechanisms. They are typically referred to as "M3 versions" or just "goggled."
That all said, you could use a goggled 35mm lens on a GF1 without the goggles, since you're focusing through the lens and not through a view/rangefinder. You'll need to remove a couple of screws on a goggled 35mm Summicron, IIRC.
But the minimum focus of the 35mm Summicron will not change, goggles or no....
Jim Evidon
Jim
My bad! It is a 50mm DR Summicron.
Mine is a goggled Wetzlar version 3. A hugely sharp lens with moderate contrast that I would like to use as a 100mm on the GF-1.
I assume that you talking about the two screws on the back of the goggles that hold the clamp onto the goggle plate? Obviously, after checking out my lens, it will only do closeups with the clamp in place on the lens.
Jim
Mine is a goggled Wetzlar version 3. A hugely sharp lens with moderate contrast that I would like to use as a 100mm on the GF-1.
I assume that you talking about the two screws on the back of the goggles that hold the clamp onto the goggle plate? Obviously, after checking out my lens, it will only do closeups with the clamp in place on the lens.
Jim
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PCB_RF
Established
No worries, now we're talking about the same lens.
You don't need to and shouldn't be touching screws on DR goggles. The drill works like this:
1. Start with goggles off and focus ring in normal range
2. Turn ring to minimum focus in normal range
3. Pull focus ring towards front of lens, rotate counterclockwise to set ring to close focus range
4. At this point the focus ring is locked until you mount the goggles
5 Mount the goggles by sliding them on the lens. The protruding ball bearing is spring-loaded, and a groove in the bottom of the goggle mount will push the ball down until it clicks into the hole on the bottom of the goggles
6. You're done
The lens has all kinds of clever interlocks. You have to mount the goggles to focus in close range, you can't change out of close range with the goggles on, you can't get into close range with the goggles on. This is all from memory, though, so I could have a detail or three wrong.
I've often wondered if there is a way to defeat the ball-bearing lock to allow focusing in close range without the goggles mounted. It would make life easier when using the lens on m4/3.
Have fun with the combo!
You don't need to and shouldn't be touching screws on DR goggles. The drill works like this:
1. Start with goggles off and focus ring in normal range
2. Turn ring to minimum focus in normal range
3. Pull focus ring towards front of lens, rotate counterclockwise to set ring to close focus range
4. At this point the focus ring is locked until you mount the goggles
5 Mount the goggles by sliding them on the lens. The protruding ball bearing is spring-loaded, and a groove in the bottom of the goggle mount will push the ball down until it clicks into the hole on the bottom of the goggles
6. You're done
The lens has all kinds of clever interlocks. You have to mount the goggles to focus in close range, you can't change out of close range with the goggles on, you can't get into close range with the goggles on. This is all from memory, though, so I could have a detail or three wrong.
I've often wondered if there is a way to defeat the ball-bearing lock to allow focusing in close range without the goggles mounted. It would make life easier when using the lens on m4/3.
Have fun with the combo!
Niko
Established
I have used my DR on the GF1. It doesn´t harm the camera but i had to modify the adapter a bit to allow infinity focus. My adapter had a lip inside it to protect the bayonet contacts. However, i measured that the DR focusing cam does not reach them anyway and filed away the lip...
You can cheat the DR to allow close focusing without the goggles. Turn the focus to the start of the close focusing range, then push the "locking ball" with your finger and turn the focus just a bit away from the locked position, now you can focus normally within the close focus range (the focusing locks only in one position in the end of the close focusing range). The trick here is that if you push the ball all the way, it does not release the focusing, you have to push it just halfway.
You can cheat the DR to allow close focusing without the goggles. Turn the focus to the start of the close focusing range, then push the "locking ball" with your finger and turn the focus just a bit away from the locked position, now you can focus normally within the close focus range (the focusing locks only in one position in the end of the close focusing range). The trick here is that if you push the ball all the way, it does not release the focusing, you have to push it just halfway.
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Jim Evidon
Jim
I tried the "cheating" method pushing down the ball and it works but is a little hard on the fingernails and a little tricky. At least I know that I have a method to do it.
Thanks to both of you.
Thanks to both of you.
sanmich
Veteran
I've often wondered if there is a way to defeat the ball-bearing lock to allow focusing in close range without the goggles mounted. [/quote]
I guess I would try to find a totally smashed goggle, and cut/machine the base out of it.
I guess I would try to find a totally smashed goggle, and cut/machine the base out of it.