Lens Detection Menu

adavis47

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So, what happens when in your lens detection menu you have ON+UV/IR selected and you slap on a lens without coding or filter and don't change this setting? What exactly changes in the camera when you have ON+UV/IR as opposed to OFF or just ON? Thanks
 
It is there "to be safe" when it is off un uncoded lens won't be mistaken for a coded lens by an errant screwhead or other mark which happens to be in the same place as the dots on a coded lens.
 
If you mount an uncoded lens then the camera would not activate features that would otherwise affect a coded lens. That I understand. But what if your lens is coded but then you select by mistake the "on" or "on + uv/ir" option? Wouldn't that screw up your picture to some degree for example when the camera is compensating for a filter you don't have mounted?
 
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Yes and no. No if you only select on and haver no filter mounted, no if you select on+IR and have a filter mounted, then it operates correectly. If, however, you make an input error and switch the two options by mistake there will be undesirable vignetting. Red and cyan respectively.
 
I have had my M8 set for ON+UV/IR (I have short lenses coded and all lenses with IR filters) since the beginning, never had a problem, other than the following.

I don't know about 3rd-party M-mount lenses because I don't own any, but be wary of late 70's to early 90's pre-ASPH Leica lenses. Many if not most of them have a rear flange mounting screw that lands smack dab over the code reader and acts like a black bit-code, reacting with whatever frameline is active to fool the M8 into thinking the lens is coded. My pre-ASPH 21 Elmarit, v.IV 35 Summicron, 50 "tabbed" Cron, and "thin" 90 T-E and 90 pre-ASPH Crons all have such a screw. A dab of white enamel over the screw head cloaked it from the reader. The only ones I didn't need to paint white were the 90 T-E, because it just so happens the combo of the screw placement and the framelines coincides for the code for that lens; and the v.IV 35 Cron, because the screw is sort of in the middle between the 2 black bits needed for coding, so I milled around both sides of the screw area and painted the whole area black.
 
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