Lens options for M2

The early, collapsible 50mm Summicrons are still reasonably priced. I'd get one of those as a starter lens before any of the others mentioned. My second choice would be one of the Voigtlander offerings. The 35/2.5 is very reasonably priced and is very decent. I'd stay away from the older Japanese lenses unless you really know that's the look you want.
 
He wants a 35mm, not 50mm, and under $200. Looks like the Voigtlander Skopar is close enough though.

Some people want the lower contrast, more tones of older lenses. The Summicron you mention certainly is that.
 
If you could save up a bit you would not be disappointed with the Zeiss 35mm f/2 Biogon. I now have a Summicron Asph but honestly I think the Biogon I had was every bit as good, a nearly flawless lens.

The Voigtlander 35 CS is a great option though, I had one for quite a while and I loved how teeny-tiny it was. Unfortunately in my case, that was also its biggest problem for me as it was so small it was slightly difficult to use with my big hands.
 
The 35/2.5 Color-Skopar is your best bet. Agree with agoglanian about Zeiss. I also have the 35/2 ASPH and the 35 2.8 Zeiss, which is as good optically (in some ways even better) as the ASPH. The Zeiss 35/2.8 would be the next best lens in price. Also own a 35/2.8 Summaron. Still a great lens, but not as contrasty or sharp as the Zeiss.
 
The M2 is a 35mm lens camera! It better be to justify my stash of M2's and 35mm lenses In your price range it seems like the Jupiter 8 would be nice fit I have a couple and they are good. BUT - there are major differences between them. You can get one that rivals anything Leica. Zeiss and Voigtlander produces - or it can be dud. This is one lens you need to try before committing to i!
The Color Skopar 35mm f2.5 in either screw mount or M-mount would work very well. The M-mount version is compact and you need no adapters. As for performance - all the Color Skopar use the same lens formula. You can use the 50mm adapter and easily modify it to bring up the 35 frame. On the adapter there is "step" that brings up the frame lines and all you need is to remove she metal from it with a small file (usually0.8 -1 mm will do_. Don't worry about removing too much - the 35 mm setting on a M2 is the "default" setting.
The Summaron 35f2.8 or the Canon 35f2 or f1.8 are all going to be more expensive unless you luck out . These are also old lenses - 50 year+ and condition is important. Focus helicoid dry out, fungus between the elements, scratches etc are common - and you don't want to add to the cost once you bought the lens.
My suggestion is to look for a good, clean used Color Skopar 35mm f2.5, new if you can afford it, used if you can try it out before hand.
Remember that any excess money can be spent on film instead.
 
Hi,

"These are also old lenses - 50 year+ and condition is important. Focus helicoid dry out, fungus between the elements, scratches etc are common - and you don't want to add to the cost once you bought the lens".

In my little world all second-hand lenses, regardless of the makers, are subject to the same stresses and strains etc of use and abuse. Jupiters can be duds and Summarons can be duds and Canons can be duds. And you can be lucky and find them in mint condition.

Experience tells me that putting them right costs a lot or a little and it has nothing to do with the makers but a lot to do with the repairman. I've had quotes for about 300 pounds for a lens repair and paid 20 pounds for one.

The real difference, imo, is that - for example -Jupiters are under valued and Summarons are over valued. That will be reflected in the price, regardless of condition, of buying one. Alas, with lenses you are taking a gamble because you can't check anything easily apart from the feel of the mechanics. The acid test is a few cassettes of slide film and that is not something people or shops do before selling them. FWIW, I think shops gamble on only one or two being dud and charge accordingly and they know the repairman who will do it for 20 quid!

So I'd say buy with your eyes open, do a thorough test and be prepared to take the lens back or pay for a repair.

Regards, David
 
Hi,

"These are also old lenses - 50 year+ and condition is important. Focus helicoid dry out, fungus between the elements, scratches etc are common - and you don't want to add to the cost once you bought the lens".

In my little world all second-hand lenses, regardless of the makers, are subject to the same stresses and strains etc of use and abuse. Jupiters can be duds and Summarons can be duds and Canons can be duds. And you can be lucky and find them in mint condition.

Experience tells me that putting them right costs a lot or a little and it has nothing to do with the makers but a lot to do with the repairman. I've had quotes for about 300 pounds for a lens repair and paid 20 pounds for one.

The real difference, imo, is that - for example -Jupiters are under valued and Summarons are over valued. That will be reflected in the price, regardless of condition, of buying one. Alas, with lenses you are taking a gamble because you can't check anything easily apart from the feel of the mechanics. The acid test is a few cassettes of slide film and that is not something people or shops do before selling them. FWIW, I think shops gamble on only one or two being dud and charge accordingly and they know the repairman who will do it for 20 quid!

So I'd say buy with your eyes open, do a thorough test and be prepared to take the lens back or pay for a repair.

Regards, David

...and this is where finding a nice dealer in the city where you live with a friendly returns policy is a whole lot better than taking your chances on Ebay and the like. I'm lucky to have this option really.
 
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