Lens with 3D look

The childrens toys don't look 3D to me.

The ladybug shot while techincally should look 3D doesnt either because of the distracting background behind it. If you had shot just earlier when her head had leading lines down the street I bet the 3D effect would be more prominent.

I think its been concluded that its not always the lens that makes the 3D look but the shot as well has to be composed and shot in a certain way also.

Ok, looking at it again, the shot in Paris does have some distracting swirl (@F/2) and the toys' background is really complex (also F/2). I think most common Leica lenses quickly produce such results. Definitely I will also look at smaller apertures (F/5.6-8) because there I have experienced some nice pop.
Canon lenses are far smoother. I will revisit this, for instance with the 25mm Skopar (that has ultra low CA).

This thread definitely takes me out of my bubble.
 
That is exactly it.

What/which lens/lenses?

For me, getting the 3d effect involves having something in foreground and background just out of focus with a subject between nailed in focus as in these. I do think that Zeiss lenses on my M9 achieve it more than my Leica lenses.
 
Judging from examples shown in the thread I assume the Nikon AF-S 200/2 VR must be the most 3D lens in the world. Anything you shot with it pops!
 
I'll weigh in with an opinion that it's not really so much the particular lens as how it's used... The lens only needs to produce a sharply focused subject - the whole subject, nearby - and a somewhat out of focus background, well separated. Ideally with lighting from the side to produce better modeling. Ta-da, 3D! 🙂

Agreeing with a member who deleted his post... and I suggest it's supported by the successful examples in this thread.
 
I'll weigh in with an opinion that it's not really so much the particular lens as how it's used... The lens only needs to produce a sharply focused subject - the whole subject, nearby - and a somewhat out of focus background, well separated. Ideally with lighting from the side to produce better modeling. Ta-da, 3D! 🙂

Agreeing with a member who deleted his post... and I suggest it's supported by the successful examples in this thread.

It's true to a certain degree, however, some lenses produce a much more pronounced effect. Not everyone who posted examples here got the look the op wanted, which is exactly what I treasure in my lenses as well. Most people seem to misunderstand simply blurring background from the 3d look that we mention. It's clear just by looking at what people posted here. This is why this 3d or microcontrast myth is going around the Internet. Anyways, I let pictures tell the truth.
Also, mind you, even the very 3d lenses don't produce it all the time. One of the major factors is the distance and also the prevalence of foreground and background out of focus element.
 
Agree that a 3D look is more about compositional elements mentioned such as close up view of the subject relative to the background elements with or without differential focus and/or lighting. Also, a perspective of converging lines as when drawing a simple square versus a cube on a sheet of paper. Add to this shadows implying distance between the subject and surroundings and our brains interpret the spacial relation as "3D". Principles of drawing and painting are similar.
 
One can reach the 3D look with: right light and low-element count lens. More than 9 elements it's enough to **** it up - not a rule, tho.


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The Voigtlander 75mm f1.8 has always served me well in the 3D department.

DSC06032.JPG

This is a good sample of 3D looks....
What camera?


~ron~
 
imo, use a lens longer than 50mm with larger aperture, and find background that is far away from subject (very important! and not messy background too). better that the subject is lightened up a bit, against a darker background, and some fall-offs may help too. it is all have to do with composition and lighting.

generally, European-made lens has more effect than Japanese-made one does.

sorry i dont have lenses longer than 50, they were taken with summicron 35 iv and elmar 50 3.5
 

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first & second one with summicron 35 iv, and 3rd one with summaron 35 2.8. if i have a longer lens say 75, it would be easier to produce 'pop' image.
regards
 

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=3D art

U31687I1493728836.SEQ.0.jpg


There is a nice separation and the background helps.
F6.8, 35mm Summicron I

By André Volten, Kröller-Müller Museum, Holland
 
The 3D element seems always to be very close to the camera, and either fully or partially side-lighted. The most prominent ones seem to have strong highlights. I'm not sure yet about the "micro-contrast" claims.
 
Please allow me to play but I do not have a Leica lens. I think there is something to the light angle, composition, focal length, smooth bokeh, etc.

Nikkor 105/2.5

34622732496_1946d78a48_z.jpg
 
Although this is relating to digital cinematography and Cooke vs new asph Leica lenses I feel it a relevant discussion about different optics under very controlled conditions. I've seen similar results from the asph Leica lens kit I bought for the M9 that I had. I actually wound up selling my new asph Leica glass because I felt it was lifeless and sterile. I went back to Zeiss and vintage Leica lenses. You may feel different but the video is quite interesting and reveals a noticeable difference in optics. Take a look.

https://vimeo.com/90168989
Thank you for this link . That video was well worth the time. Yes 3-D 'pop' has to do with the light , layering , perspective etc . That much is true but perhaps not the point of the OP's question. Rather, holding all those things constant, does glass does make a difference? Of course it does. No vague claims of Leica magic dust could overcome the comparisons in this video . The Cookes came out unmistakably more "3-D", and more flattering to the human subject in the foreground _for the (cinematographic) purposes specified there_.

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