light leaks while changing lens

fabrice

Member
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Mar 2, 2006
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14
Hi FSU fans !
I got a peculiar problem, with both my zorki 3C and 1
They burn the frame while changing lens.
I mean :
I know perfectly well in a roll when I change my lens. I swap, then I advance.
So the preceding frame is in front of the opened area.
Even in low light the same gimmick appears, of course lighter in low light, stronger in sunny outside : The film is burned from side to side, sprocket holes included.
No scanner to show the disaster, sorry.

I wonder where the leak could come from ??? :bang:
And, eventually, how to get rid of it ?
 
yeah, thanks chris. Sometimes it really looks like the first japanese portrait.
those days, it looks more like a fog that spreads on all the film surface ...
like I read in the thread you were proposing, it could be a way to force me to use only one lens .... 😀
But what would be the point to collect all those jupiters then ? 🙄
I think definitely that light leaks from the front, as I can clearly see one frame corner drawn by light.
 
The Zorkis and the Feds both have limited internal chassis, which could allow light leaks if they are damaged (bent) or misaligned. In any case you need to change lenses in shade. If you still get leaks in shade, then it is remove jacket for an impromptu changing bag. You fold up jacket and insert arms the wrong direction...

If you have a really bad leak it is off to the camera repair person time.

Noel
 
I bet you are using a Jupiter 12. The same happens to me when I change to and from a J12 on my M2, so...nothing new under the sun. Just be very careful when swapping lenses - the J12 is so obscenely close to the shutter that the smallest tilt of the J12 when mounting/dismounting it will create a light leak. On my M2, it´s always the bottom of the frame....
 
I had the same problem recently with a Zorki 1 and a Fed 2. If you remove the lens from the Zorki 1 there is some space beneath the main shutter drum where the light can pass through to the film and the take up spool. The Leica has a small shield to prevent this. The Zorki 1 doesn't have this shield.

The Zorki 4 has two shields to protect the shutter crate from light passing through, I don't know if the Zorki 3C should have this, it finally became the Z-4. Maybe it misses the shutter drum protecting shields.

The original Leica Buch disrecommends the changing of lenses in broad daylight. This doesnt mean that changing lenses should cause any problems.

Since the Zorki 3 has a removable back, you can check the the light tightness using a pocket lamp to find the problem.
 
My Zorki 6 shows light leaks when changing lenses. Here is a really bad case:

000008.jpg


The camera went in for a CLA but it seems to be a design problem as said above. The leak is always from the side. I'm training to change lenses in the dark! :bang: .

Mmm, I didn't realize that maybe the J-12 is touching the curtain...it may be something to try out next time.
 
My Leica IIIc used to allow light past the lower light shield, the one over the slow speed mechanism. Happened only when no lens was mounted, as when changing. Gave a line parallel to one long edge of the frame. Easily set right by repair person.
 
My fed2 after CLA show sometimes similar leaks, even if i dont change lenses. It is in the design. But still i love my camera 🙂
 
Most FED and Zorkis don't have particularly good light baffles, allowing light leaks when lenses are changed. Personally I've not had any problems but I'm quite cautious not to let bright light fall on the mount area when changing lenses. The best camera in this respect is probably the Zorki 4/4K which does have additional baffles. I think it's a known issue on other models.
 
Actually, I do use a J-12 very often !
It might be something to consider ...
OK then. I think I'll cope with it, as I can't see myself buying still another zorki ... regardless of that problem, everything is smooth and fine ...
and knowing that some leica can show the same problem is ... hum .... cheerful ?
🙄
Thanks to all for your answers, I guess that just thinking of advancing one frame before changing won't hurt nor cost so much ... and is much safer than fidelling in with my clumsy fingers ...
 
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