hugivza
Well-known
Yesterday I received my Zorki I at last. I have never used a bottom loader before. Despite following the instructions very carefully I am still having difficulty in getting the film inserted. Is there a knack, or am I missing something vital that I need to do? I have used up one whole roll cutting leaders and feeding it into this film eating machine. I got the instructions from the web as follows:
Instructions:
To load these cameras, a long thin Leica style leader is required, which is 18 to 22 mm wide, and 10 cm long. It is straight for 85mm, and then curves sharply upward for a total length of 10cm. The upper edge of the curved cut MUST fall between the sprocket holes so that there will be no sharp edges that can catch on the shutter curtains, and believe me, they will.
Leader cutting templates can be had to cut the above leader, and are very desirable as they index the film sprocket holes so that the leader cut ends correctly between the sprocket holes.
The baseplate must first be removed. To accomplish this, unfold the locking key on the left end of the body, and rotate it 1/2 turn to the left, until it stops. Using the key as a handle, pull up on the baseplate until it hinges off the retaining pin on the right end of the body. The rewind selector should be placed in the rewind position, which means that it must be rotated counter clockwise until it covers the "B".
With the lens pointing at your body, you will find the takeup spool located to your right. Reach in, and pull the spool off the spindle.
Attach the film leader to the takeup spool by slipping the end under the metal clip on the takeup spool (which rotates counterclockwise),and pull enough film out of the cassette so that 4 sprocket holes on the uncut film behind the leader are protruding from the lips of the cassette. Start the feed cassette and takeup spool into their recesses. Making sure that the leader enters the slot behind the shutter assembly smoothly. With the cassette and takeup spool inserted approximately halfway into the camera, make sure that there is enough slack in the film, so that when it comes out of the shutter slot, it makes a 90 degree turn and goes straight down into the the clip on the takeup spool. This is VERY important, as it prevents the film from catching on the film advance sprocket, which is located right next to the takeup spool, as you are pressing the cassette and spool into position.
I am all dressed up with nowhere to go! Is there anyone who can help with suggestions to overcome what seems more than my usual lack of deftness?
Instructions:
To load these cameras, a long thin Leica style leader is required, which is 18 to 22 mm wide, and 10 cm long. It is straight for 85mm, and then curves sharply upward for a total length of 10cm. The upper edge of the curved cut MUST fall between the sprocket holes so that there will be no sharp edges that can catch on the shutter curtains, and believe me, they will.
Leader cutting templates can be had to cut the above leader, and are very desirable as they index the film sprocket holes so that the leader cut ends correctly between the sprocket holes.
The baseplate must first be removed. To accomplish this, unfold the locking key on the left end of the body, and rotate it 1/2 turn to the left, until it stops. Using the key as a handle, pull up on the baseplate until it hinges off the retaining pin on the right end of the body. The rewind selector should be placed in the rewind position, which means that it must be rotated counter clockwise until it covers the "B".
With the lens pointing at your body, you will find the takeup spool located to your right. Reach in, and pull the spool off the spindle.
Attach the film leader to the takeup spool by slipping the end under the metal clip on the takeup spool (which rotates counterclockwise),and pull enough film out of the cassette so that 4 sprocket holes on the uncut film behind the leader are protruding from the lips of the cassette. Start the feed cassette and takeup spool into their recesses. Making sure that the leader enters the slot behind the shutter assembly smoothly. With the cassette and takeup spool inserted approximately halfway into the camera, make sure that there is enough slack in the film, so that when it comes out of the shutter slot, it makes a 90 degree turn and goes straight down into the the clip on the takeup spool. This is VERY important, as it prevents the film from catching on the film advance sprocket, which is located right next to the takeup spool, as you are pressing the cassette and spool into position.
I am all dressed up with nowhere to go! Is there anyone who can help with suggestions to overcome what seems more than my usual lack of deftness?
R
ray_g
Guest
If you haven't checked this out, read this sticky:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7533&highlight=bottom+loader
I found it extremely helpful.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7533&highlight=bottom+loader
I found it extremely helpful.
Last edited by a moderator:
doubs43
Well-known
Go to the "Leica M" forum and check out the bottom-loading instructions - complete with pictures - there. It's a "sticky" so it's the very first post. The instructions are in two parts and somehow a post managed to separate the two but you can go to the third post for the continuation.
Walker
Walker
Solinar
Analog Preferred
How is everything in Western Oz? It should be summer soon.
I have two bottom loaders and make the leader a tad longer than 10cm. I use my ID card to draw a line that connects smoothly with the precut leader. At the end of this line I use the top lip of the film cannister to draw a quarter circle. When I'm done trimming with scissors the straight edge is about 11cm and curve adds about another 1.5 cm.
The only tricky part of installing both spools is to make sure that the sprocket holes line up with the teeth on the sprocket. I have a small LED light, which was purchased at Gowins, for checking the sprocket holes in dark rooms.
I have two bottom loaders and make the leader a tad longer than 10cm. I use my ID card to draw a line that connects smoothly with the precut leader. At the end of this line I use the top lip of the film cannister to draw a quarter circle. When I'm done trimming with scissors the straight edge is about 11cm and curve adds about another 1.5 cm.
The only tricky part of installing both spools is to make sure that the sprocket holes line up with the teeth on the sprocket. I have a small LED light, which was purchased at Gowins, for checking the sprocket holes in dark rooms.
Mark Wood
Well-known
Can I send out the same plea that I did the last time a similar thread appeared on the forum?!? To save all of these cameras from an early grave, PLEASE follow the proper instructions and start by cutting a proper leader. The last message about ensuring that the film's sprocket holes line up with the teeth before advancing the film hits the nail on the head and is the real key to getting it right. I've spoken at great length to a well respected (and extremely good!) Leica repairer in the UK about this and he knew all of the gory details about rescuing the cameras into which people had inserted credit cards, fingers...and whatever else to guide the film. I'd now anticipate a long list of messages now extolling the virtues of sticking bits of cardboard into vintage Leicas and whatever else but the simple answer is, do it properly and it works every time. Even better, you don't exhaust the World's supply of replacement pressure plates!!
Actually, I might have missed something in the original message but you can't load a film with the "rewind selector" set to rewind - it must be set to advance...
Apologies for getting on my "high horse" there but I assume that we all want people to still be enjoying these cameras well after we're gone....??!
Actually, I might have missed something in the original message but you can't load a film with the "rewind selector" set to rewind - it must be set to advance...
Apologies for getting on my "high horse" there but I assume that we all want people to still be enjoying these cameras well after we're gone....??!
hugivza
Well-known
Thanks guys. I will tread very carefully as this is a beautiful piece of equipment. I have checked out the Leica M post and have copied it to file for future reference. I will refrain from inserting foreign objects where they do not belong. Mark thanks for your concerns.
With respect to summer in WA, it is just around the corner. The wild flowers are in bloom and the snakes are active and breeding.(we live adjacent to the largest urban tiger snake population in Oz, so they are regularly encountered).
Now for some shots with the Zorki.
Thanks
With respect to summer in WA, it is just around the corner. The wild flowers are in bloom and the snakes are active and breeding.(we live adjacent to the largest urban tiger snake population in Oz, so they are regularly encountered).
Now for some shots with the Zorki.
Thanks
Jason_K
Shooter
The first time I tried to load one of these I had a heck of a time. :bang:
As already mentioned - I've found that cutting the leader right makes a really big difference.
As already mentioned - I've found that cutting the leader right makes a really big difference.
hugivza
Well-known
Following more frustrations with film loading, despite following the instructions to the letter, I then visited to a friend who has been around Leicas for a long time. Having tried unsuccessfully he looked between the back plate and the shutter assembly and it appears that there is something adrift. It is visible as the end of what appears to be a punched out mild steel plate judging by the striations on the edge. It's visible in the attached image. It seems that it needs a trip to the hospital. Thanks for your help and assistance anyway guys. I guess that I will just have to play with the Kiev this weekend
mongo141
Established
hugivza said:Following more frustrations with film loading, despite following the instructions to the letter, I then visited to a friend who has been around Leicas for a long time. Having tried unsuccessfully he looked between the back plate and the shutter assembly and it appears that there is something adrift. It is visible as the end of what appears to be a punched out mild steel plate judging by the striations on the edge. It's visible in the attached image. It seems that it needs a trip to the hospital. Thanks for your help and assistance anyway guys. I guess that I will just have to play with the Kiev this weekend![]()
HI, That is the edge of the pressure plate which is out of position. With any luck both of the springs are still there and not too bent. It is a pretty simple repair requiring only removal of the outer shell to put the plate back in place. Regards, Dave
hugivza
Well-known
Thanks Dave - it will have to wait until Tuesday when I will have the time to take it to my camera doc. Thanks also to everyone for the help and interest. I am sure that I will get to enjoy it soon. It is so small in comparison to the Contax and Kiev. God I hope I don't get hooked on miniatures like Leica, the wife will trade me in for a younger model!
Thanks
Thanks
L
Laika
Guest
hugivza said:Yesterday I received my Zorki I at last.
Hi ya hugivza, I'm glad to hear your Zorki and Kiev turned up in the end. As mentioned it sounds like the pressure plate needs to be repositioned, it's not a big job.
blakley
blakley
So I know this is heretical, and you've been warned against it above, but when I load my IIIf, I don't cut the leader or do any of the things described in the sticky. I just:
0. Set the rewind lever to "A".
1. Take a THIN credit-card sized piece of plastic (in my case, it's an Ilford Pro membership card, but a Wolfpack card or other thin plastic card will do) and slide it down between the pressure plate and the shutter (i.e. I put it where the film will go).
2. Insert the film leader into the take-up spool, and wind the film onto the spool until the entire leader and a bit of the film past the leader is wound onto the spool.
3. Insert the supply spool and the take-up spool into the camera as usual, making sure that the film goes BEHIND the plastic card (i.e. between the plastic card and the pressure plate). Then remove the card.
4. Put the bottom plate on, and wind the film once.
5. fire the shutter, raise the rewind knob, and gently tension the film by rewinding until I feel resistance.
6. Wind on to frame 1.
I've never yet had a problem with this procedure, and it doesn't require me to take any lenses off, use sharp objects, burn incense, or anything else unnatural.
Does anyone else use this procedure? Has anyone else tried it and damaged a camera?
0. Set the rewind lever to "A".
1. Take a THIN credit-card sized piece of plastic (in my case, it's an Ilford Pro membership card, but a Wolfpack card or other thin plastic card will do) and slide it down between the pressure plate and the shutter (i.e. I put it where the film will go).
2. Insert the film leader into the take-up spool, and wind the film onto the spool until the entire leader and a bit of the film past the leader is wound onto the spool.
3. Insert the supply spool and the take-up spool into the camera as usual, making sure that the film goes BEHIND the plastic card (i.e. between the plastic card and the pressure plate). Then remove the card.
4. Put the bottom plate on, and wind the film once.
5. fire the shutter, raise the rewind knob, and gently tension the film by rewinding until I feel resistance.
6. Wind on to frame 1.
I've never yet had a problem with this procedure, and it doesn't require me to take any lenses off, use sharp objects, burn incense, or anything else unnatural.
Does anyone else use this procedure? Has anyone else tried it and damaged a camera?
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Solinar
Analog Preferred
I don't use the card method, nor do I know if the pressure plate is that delicate, but it sure is good to know someone else is snappin away with a IIIf here in Austin.
DaveP
Well-known
Second the thin card method. I went to a hobby shop and found some plastic sheet .10 thick and cut several card size pieces out. I keep one in my bill fold and others around various places handy. I can load the camera with this method faster than cutting the film alone. The only thing i'll add to the description is insert the card aligned with the edge of the shutter crate.........
R
rick oleson
Guest
I just wad the film up and stuff it in through the lens mount
: ) =
: ) =
doubs43
Well-known
rick oleson said:I just wad the film up and stuff it in through the lens mount
: ) =
Rick, would you mind sharing your secret of wadding the film properly? I can't seem to quite get it right!
Walker
hugivza
Well-known
"it doesn't require me to take any lenses off, use sharp objects, burn incense, or anything else unnatural."
The mind boggles at the possibilities
) I can imagine mantras being chanted whilst the film is reverentially put in place, perhaps accompanied by who knows what! In the interim, I will stick to getting the Zorki fixed, and avoid even stranger looks from my wife.
The mind boggles at the possibilities
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