Lynx-14: How do I know if it works?

[Timarete]

I just bought a lot of old camera equipment that included a Lynx-14. It looks to be in great condition, but I'm not sure how to tell if it's fully functional. I want to check whatever needs to be checked with such a camera. The shutter seems to work. The film compartment opens and everything looks OK in there, I suppose. What else should I be checking?

 

[Gradskater]

The 14 works without the need for a battery, so if all your shutter speeds seem about right, and the shutter opens all the way (check on the bulb setting) then you are probably good to go. As far as the meter, they are more difficult to diagnose. It might respond with a battery, but it will probably be inaccurate. the best thing is to use a handheld meter and run some film through it and see what you get. and yes, check/replace the light seals. The 14 also works well with a hood. I have a 14 and a 14IC and I keep hoods on them at all times.

 

[Timarete]

Thanks for the reply, gradskater. The shutter does seem to work at all speeds and does open all the way on Bulb. The light seals are completely deteriorated, though. How would I go about replacing them? Do I need to buy a foam kit, or is there another method?

 

[Bill58]

Get your foam kit on ebay from seller "Interslice" and instructions here: http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html.

good luck!

 

[btgc]

Timarete, check if aperture opens and closes properly. Some Lynxes suffering from dirty aperture are broken, forcing aperture ring. If it's OK, you have got wonderful camera.

 

[ChrisN]

And a great deal, too! 😉

 

[sevo]

At the end of the day you'll only know that a camera really works by exposing test film at all relevant settings. Repair shops usually don't have the time for a development turnaround, so they test most components piecemeal (collimation, rangefinder, shutter, aperture, light leaks, transport) by visual inspection and metering, but that causes even good workshops to have some errors that slip by, as some things are only noticeable in regular operations (e.g. I recently had a shutter only properly cocking without film).

Sevo

 

[Timarete]

Timarete, check if aperture opens and closes properly. Some Lynxes suffering from dirty aperture are broken, forcing aperture ring. If it's OK, you have got wonderful camera.

It does open and close properly at all apertures. The aperture blades seem very clean and snappy.

And a great deal, too! 😉

The internet is a small world after all! 😀

Thanks Bill58 for the info on the foam kit. I thought for a short while that I would sell this camera, but it has quickly grown on me, and now I don't think I want to part with it. If nothing else, this behemoth of a rangefinder looks terrific on my shelf! It's incredible to see a 44-year-old camera that looks brand new. They sure don't make 'em like they used to. 🙂

 

[b1bmsgt]

Congratulations on finding a new friend! 😀

Russ

 

[Timarete]

I just bought a roll of film and ordered a battery for the Lynx. I hope its meter turns out to be functional. Fingers crossed!

 

[btgc]

I just bought a roll of film and ordered a battery for the Lynx. I hope its meter turns out to be functional. Fingers crossed!

Not knowing your background, skills and habits, I'll take a risk suggesting not to rely on Lynx' meter. Check exposure your choose against in-camera meter, and take it all with a grain of salt.

 

[Timarete]

Not knowing your background, skills and habits, I'll take a risk suggesting not to rely on Lynx' meter. Check exposure your choose against in-camera meter, and take it all with a grain of salt.

It's that unreliable, eh? Thanks for the warning! Even if the meter isn't calibrated, it will be nice to know that it could be. I'll check it against another meter as you suggest.

 

[Bigeejit]

I also picked up a Lynx 14e last week at a car boot sale.I've fitted new light seals and the Yash is ready to shoot except...The usual problem,mercury battery.I made a couple of adapters for the Electro and they work fine,but the battery chamber in the Lynx is smaller and I don't know how to proceed.Not sure if I want to rely on Sunny 16,especially as I want to shoot in bad light..any suggestions would be great..Cheers...Liam.

 

[b1bmsgt]

Get a decent hand-held meter. Even if the on board meter works, you really can't trust it. It may work for one shot, then go south for the next one...

Russ

 

[Eugen Mezei]

The 14 also works well with a hood. I have a 14 and a 14IC and I keep hoods on them at all times.

What kind of hood do you use? I put on mine the lensshade of a Biometar 80 and it obscures the rangefinder window, I don't see the patch anymore. Do you use a hood with narrower opening angle or shorter?
I could try the one from the older (non-auto) Pentacon 200 lens, that one is practically a tube, do you think it would cause vignetting?

For the OP: if you need fresh mercuries for the lightmeter pls. let me know. It often happens that the soldering of the tongue coming in the battery chamber is unsoldered, that is not to difficult to repair but you must be _extremly_ carefull when deinsulating the end of the wire as it is very thin and breaks only at looking at it. (Than you have to make a joint to make the wire long enough again or you need to disassemble the entire camera and to replace the whole wire.)


Eugen

 

[Gradskater]

Here is a picture of the type of hood I use. One is a no-name brand, and the other says "sonia". both metal, and just a hint of vignetting wide open.

 

[btgc]

Here is a picture of the type of hood I use. One is a no-name brand, and the other says "sonia". both metal, and just a hint of vignetting wide open.

I use very similar (same?) ebay hood as on right sided 14'. Shape is "straight pipe", not cone.

 

[Eugen Mezei]

Here is a picture of the type of hood I use. One is a no-name brand, and the other says "sonia". both metal, and just a hint of vignetting wide open.

Thank you for the picture. The hood from the 200 mm Pentacon is the same shape, but a bit longer. So I suppose it will vignette even more. Still I will take a shot with it wide open, when I will put the first roll in my Lynx. I am avaiting a Pentacon 135mm with detachable hood (the old manual diaphragme one) and try that hood too, that one is a cone, not a pipe but not so large as the one from the 80 mm Biometar.

Eugen

 

[Eugen Mezei]

The Lynx14E is a nice old cam, but the light measurement is not reliable at low light.

Oh... they changed the advance crank. I always found it cheapish on the original Lynx. (But working.) Is the new version wobbling like on the precursor?

Eugen

 

[elwrongo]

I found a nice old Yashica Lynx 14 at an op shop a few weeks back for $10. I did have to pay $60 to get a CLE to get the shutter and meter working but now its fab. One feature I should like to note about this camera that's not mentioned anywhere in the manual or literature is that you can drive 25 kilometres with it on the roof of your car and it will be there when you arrive!! I know because I did it - 25km from Fremantle to Perth and there it was was hardly shifted when I got out of the car. Amazing feature I'd say, I'm surprised Yashica never made more of it. 😉