Lynx 14 vs. Electro 35 ?

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pedro.m.reis

Newbie but eager to learn
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Hi there! Need an advice here.

What camera is best in picture quality, sharpest lens ?
If you could only buy one, wich did you buy? :)
And ... what does G.A.S. means ???

Thanks.
 
I have both. Bought a G35 when they were fresh on the market. The advantage of the Lynx is that you can run it as a manual camera. I last tested the Electro G35 without a battery, default shutter speed is 1/500th and got good results, sharp lens. The Lynx is a lot bigger physically. Both lenses are good.
 
I also have both. The Lynx is bigger, better in low light situations with the faster lens. The Electro must have a working battery and light meter - it sets the shutter speed electronically. It has been my observation that the Electro series do not have problems with flare that the Lynx 14 has. If you get the Lynx 14, get a lens hood and use it.

Both good cameras. Electro might have the edge for a better lens - Lynx is faster and has manual shutter speed control.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
I also have both ... but ...

The Lynx 14, got it from my father, the metter is not working and i get a bright spot in the midlle of every picture. Went to a repair shop but they didnt found the problem.

The electro 35, bought in ebay for $15, but, correct-me if i'm wrong, the shutter release buttun is suposed to stay down when is pressed, mine dont and when i shoot in "B" the shutter leaves take forever to open....Also needs new light seals.

I realy like these cameras so, i want to buy "another" :), so i'm asking the advice :).

P.S.: I realy dont know what GAS means :), i wasnt joking :)
 
pedro.m.reis said:
I also have both ... but ...

The Lynx 14, got it from my father, the metter is not working and i get a bright spot in the midlle of every picture. Went to a repair shop but they didnt found the problem.

The electro 35, bought in ebay for $15, but, correct-me if i'm wrong, the shutter release buttun is suposed to stay down when is pressed, mine dont and when i shoot in "B" the shutter leaves take forever to open....Also needs new light seals.

I realy like these cameras so, i want to buy "another" :), so i'm asking the advice :).

P.S.: I realy dont know what GAS means :), i wasnt joking :)
Click to expand...

OK, in no particular order:

1) The bright spot in the middle of the Lynx 14 is lens flare. You get a 58mm lens hood and put it on the end of the lens and the problem will go away. You have have to get a rubber hood and cut it a bit so it does not block the rangefinder window.

2) I don't know what to tell you about the meter on the Lynx 14, but grayhoundman might.

3) The shutter release button is supposed to pop back up when you take a shot. If the shutter takes forever to open, the shutter needs a clean and lube. You can try to do it yourself, or you can have it done professionally - and the light seals as well.

4) GAS means "Gear Acquisition Syndrome" which was coined by Joe or someone here on RFF. It is a joke - a double entendre in English - it means 'to have gas' like what you get when you eat something with a lot of beans in it OR to have a sudden desire to buy lots of cameras.

I hope you find this helpful!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Thanks for all the answers.

Do you realy think that the bright spot is flare? On every picture on the exact same spot?
I'm going to buy a lens hood and try anyway :) (where? ebay?)

Tks
 
Bill ... double entendre?? How retro. Haven't heard that one since i was a sprout. My dad, a Brit used to use that phrase. Gave me a flashback. A good one.

Pedro. Find Greyhoundman here at RFF under the members list. PM him on your cameras. He can probably help on one if not both. I and many RFF members have had his fine help. (don't tell him I said that , he might deny it... joke)

Jan
 
Lynx = full manual control and functionality without battery

Electro = full programed exposure, no control of aperture/shutter speeds
 
Here an example of a photo of my Lynx 14 with bright spot in the middle

Here an example of a photo of my Lynx 14 with bright spot in the middle

The photo istself is not a great photo but the spot is quite visible.
 
Pedro,

In the one shot shown here, it could easily be flare. Bright water/beach scene with no hood will illuminate the front element and produce these results. But flare should not occur in every type of picture that you take. The Yashica Lynx 14 takes 58mm hoods and filters, your local camera shop probably has them.

If that spot is in every shot you take, it "might" be some haze in the center of the lens. Open the camera, set the shutter to "B", and shine a light through the lens. Look for signs of separation or haze on the lens. Also, examine the working of the shutter closely to make sure that it does not hesitate on closing. Look for it to stick at the end of its cycle. If you see any of these issues, a cleaning of the lens and shutter will help.
 
Sorry about my english ... could you specify better what is Haze and separation? If you got a link with some pictures would be nice.
Thanks.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
Pedro,

In the one shot shown here, it could easily be flare. Bright water/beach scene with no hood will illuminate the front element and produce these results. But flare should not occur in every type of picture that you take. The Yashica Lynx 14 takes 58mm hoods and filters, your local camera shop probably has them.

If that spot is in every shot you take, it "might" be some haze in the center of the lens. Open the camera, set the shutter to "B", and shine a light through the lens. Look for signs of separation or haze on the lens. Also, examine the working of the shutter closely to make sure that it does not hesitate on closing. Look for it to stick at the end of its cycle. If you see any of these issues, a cleaning of the lens and shutter will help.
Click to expand...

I have the Lynx 14 - it exhibits the exact same center bright spot. Also, the Lynx is known to be flare-prone. My lens has been out recently - I had to massage the shutter with lighter fluid and so had the unit out. No haze, no separation.

So, I suspect that the problem is flare. Only one way to know for sure - use a lens hood and see if that makes the problem go away. Or, try some indoor shots. One can even make a temporary lens hood with some black paper formed into a cone if need be.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
pedro.m.reis said:
hummm, ok. this weekend i'll take some photos indoor and with a paper lens hood :)

Tks
Click to expand...

I took some shots this weekend with my Lynx 14. Sadly, all suffered from lens flare except the one I took in our living room (indoors). Looks just like yours, too.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Last edited:
Here's a few more samples from the Lynx 14, at small aperture (about f8 to f11). I've only shot one roll but no sign of flare with this one so far. :)
 
I have both and get excellent pictures with both. I prefer the Lynx because you have complete control over the aperture and shutter settings.

Dick
 
Lynx 14 at F5.6, outdoors.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=177

Haze inside of a lens looks the same as the inside of a car window that has not been cleaned in a while. When you shine a light into a lens, the "haze" illuminates.

I really think what you have is flare, and the way to solve it is to get the lens hood. I tend to use the top cover of ever-ready cases as a lens hood, to shade the lens. Saw that in a 1940's book "35mm Technique" and it stuck with me.
 
Another quick question: for manual override like with the Yashica 14, are there any over/under lights or shutter lock?
 
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