kchan
Member
Any recommendations for an VC ultron 35mm and VC Nokton 50mm ltm to M adapter for rd-1?
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
RichC
Well-known
The CV ones are very good, or an original Leitz one.kchan said:
Some of the new cheap Chinese copies aren't accurately made, leading to focusing errors; in one post, someone's said that their lens fell off the camera! That said, I'm sure some are OK, but I don't know from which sellers.
Stu W
Well-known
I concur, after trying the bargain brands I found the VC or the Leitz the only ones that work properly. Stu
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
Genuine Leitz-brand adapters have the most consistent quality. They're no longer in production, but often are available used from camera dealers. They also turn up on eBay fairly regularly, but beware of fakes!
Genuine Leitz adapters are carefully engraved "Ernst Leitz GmbH Wetzlar Germany DBP," or some variation thereof, in upper-and-lower-case letters in a distinct typeface with subtle curves in the foot of the "t" in Wetzlar" and the tail of the "y" in "Germany." The letters are neatly filled with black enamel. The fake adapters I've seen on eBay are just engraved "LEITZ" in plain block letters with no paint fill.
What really counts, though, is not the style or quality of engraving, but the precision with which the adapter is made. I say the Leitz adapters are the best because I've had the best luck with them in terms of consistency: every one I've bought has always been the correct thickness (0.98-0.99mm) There are good third-party adapters as well, but my experience with them has been more variable: some are correct, but some are slightly too thick (I've yet to encounter one that's too thin.)
An adapter that's the wrong thickness will throw off the infinity focus of the lens, and when used on a lens other than a 50mm it will affect the accuracy of the rangefinder as well.
Since there's no way to be really sure what OEM made a third-party adapter, regardless of its brand name, I'd say your best bet is to buy an inexpensive digital caliper with which you can measure the thickness of adapters you buy. If you get one that's slightly too thick, you can either return it and demand an exchange, or thin it down one or two hundredths of a millimeter by rubbing the front face against fine abrasive paper on a flat surface. (This will remove some of the chrome finish, but that won't show when the adapter is screwed onto a lens.)
I've done this with several third-party adapters with excellent results.
The caliper is also handy for other camera-related measurements, such as determining the inner and outer diameters of lens barrels so you can see what filters and hoods will fit.
Genuine Leitz adapters are carefully engraved "Ernst Leitz GmbH Wetzlar Germany DBP," or some variation thereof, in upper-and-lower-case letters in a distinct typeface with subtle curves in the foot of the "t" in Wetzlar" and the tail of the "y" in "Germany." The letters are neatly filled with black enamel. The fake adapters I've seen on eBay are just engraved "LEITZ" in plain block letters with no paint fill.
What really counts, though, is not the style or quality of engraving, but the precision with which the adapter is made. I say the Leitz adapters are the best because I've had the best luck with them in terms of consistency: every one I've bought has always been the correct thickness (0.98-0.99mm) There are good third-party adapters as well, but my experience with them has been more variable: some are correct, but some are slightly too thick (I've yet to encounter one that's too thin.)
An adapter that's the wrong thickness will throw off the infinity focus of the lens, and when used on a lens other than a 50mm it will affect the accuracy of the rangefinder as well.
Since there's no way to be really sure what OEM made a third-party adapter, regardless of its brand name, I'd say your best bet is to buy an inexpensive digital caliper with which you can measure the thickness of adapters you buy. If you get one that's slightly too thick, you can either return it and demand an exchange, or thin it down one or two hundredths of a millimeter by rubbing the front face against fine abrasive paper on a flat surface. (This will remove some of the chrome finish, but that won't show when the adapter is screwed onto a lens.)
I've done this with several third-party adapters with excellent results.
The caliper is also handy for other camera-related measurements, such as determining the inner and outer diameters of lens barrels so you can see what filters and hoods will fit.
peter_n
Veteran
Leitz, CV, Marumi.
Steve Litt
Well-known
I have always used genuine Leitz ones bought used from a dealer on my Leica ,CV and RD-1 they dont cost that much more and I havent had any focussing issues with them.
regards
Steve
regards
Steve
dpetrzelka
Well-known
Where can you still get the Marumi adapters? I tried emailing a place in Canada that used to sell them, never heard a responce- and I haven't seen any on Ebay as some have suggested.
I did just find out that my local place sells the Voigtlander adapters for the same price as I've seen them online- for once it won''t be difficult to support the local guy.
-D
I did just find out that my local place sells the Voigtlander adapters for the same price as I've seen them online- for once it won''t be difficult to support the local guy.
-D
tmessenger
Established
KEH has some used CV adapters listed, I got one from them a while ago and it was like new.
Tim
Tim
trittium
Well-known
1st Leica
2nd Cosina
3rd Any Japanese adapter with a brass mount
2nd Cosina
3rd Any Japanese adapter with a brass mount
waldemarski
Member
Thanks for the useful info - very timely, too!
I currently have one R-D1 body, with a second on the way. Two lenses now (Zeiss 28, CV 50 Nokton) with a third (CV 35 Skopar classic) on the way. Was testing this morning for accuracy of focus, and the Nokton back-focused by about 3cm at 1 meter. Thought it might be the inexpensive Chinese ebay'ed adapter, so I switched to a genuine Leitz one - same result. Tried the Zeiss - spot on. Of course, it's a 2.8 rather than 1.5 and WA to boot, but still it was sharpest at the point the RF indicated.
So, having just read this thread on adapters, I checked the thickness of my adapters. Both seemed a bit thick - 1.03-1.04 mm, but then I noticed that there's a slightly thinner outer section, and when I miked that both came in at .98-.99 mm. JLW - where should I be taking the measurement?
Anyway, when the Skopar arrives (with a CV adapter), I'll test again. When the second body arrives, I should be able to test conclusively whether it's a problem with the RF, the lens, or the adapter(s). In the meantime, it'd be great to know where exactly the measurement should be taken - on the outer lip (slightly thinner) or the full flange body. Also, where does one get shims for adjusting the lens? Has anyone gotten these from Steve Gandy, or am I best off sending the Nokton back to him (had it a week or two) for one that focuses correctly, assuming that it is the lens?
As always, thanks for the help and the info, and merry Christmas to all!
waldemar
I currently have one R-D1 body, with a second on the way. Two lenses now (Zeiss 28, CV 50 Nokton) with a third (CV 35 Skopar classic) on the way. Was testing this morning for accuracy of focus, and the Nokton back-focused by about 3cm at 1 meter. Thought it might be the inexpensive Chinese ebay'ed adapter, so I switched to a genuine Leitz one - same result. Tried the Zeiss - spot on. Of course, it's a 2.8 rather than 1.5 and WA to boot, but still it was sharpest at the point the RF indicated.
So, having just read this thread on adapters, I checked the thickness of my adapters. Both seemed a bit thick - 1.03-1.04 mm, but then I noticed that there's a slightly thinner outer section, and when I miked that both came in at .98-.99 mm. JLW - where should I be taking the measurement?
Anyway, when the Skopar arrives (with a CV adapter), I'll test again. When the second body arrives, I should be able to test conclusively whether it's a problem with the RF, the lens, or the adapter(s). In the meantime, it'd be great to know where exactly the measurement should be taken - on the outer lip (slightly thinner) or the full flange body. Also, where does one get shims for adjusting the lens? Has anyone gotten these from Steve Gandy, or am I best off sending the Nokton back to him (had it a week or two) for one that focuses correctly, assuming that it is the lens?
As always, thanks for the help and the info, and merry Christmas to all!
waldemar