M-Rokkor 28

[agf]

If I had an M-Rokkor 28 mm (the one for the CLE) mounted on an M8.2, what frame lines would it bring up? On my M6 it brings up the 35 mm frames...
Thanks!

 

[Al Kaplan]

It "brings up" no frame lines. 35/135 is the default position on M Leicas when nothing is pushing against the frame line mechanism. In order to get the 28 frame to appear you need to add metal to a bayonet lug. It's possible to drill a tiny itty bitty hole in the end of that lug and epoxy a pin of the proper length in place. It's possible but not easy...LOL

 

[Erik L]

It "brings up" no frame lines. 35/135 is the default position on M Leicas when nothing is pushing against the frame line mechanism. In order to get the 28 frame to appear you need to add metal to a bayonet lug. It's possible to drill a tiny itty bitty hole in the end of that lug and epoxy a pin of the proper length in place. It's possible but not easy...LOL

who would do this? my 50 dual range needs this very thing done. (i have no 50mm flange to go by)
focal point wanted way too much money to repair...

 

[Al Kaplan]

You can do it yourself but it might kill some of the lens's value to a collector, regardless of who does it.. You can purchse some really REALLY tiny drill bits. A standard electric drill is heavy and difficult to use with any precision. I used a Dremel Mototool. It has a chuck to hold the drill bits just like a big drill. Before you start drilling take a small file and cut through the chrome, giving yourself a nice flat surface on the soft brass underneath. Since the pressure on the pin is directly on the end, not the side, you can be a wee bit sloppy with the hole. The epoxy will keep the pin in place. Try not to be too sloppy though.

 

[ferider]

FWIW, I have a 28 Rokkor that apparently was modified by Minolta. They filed out a corner of the respective mount flange, soldered in a brass corner, and then filed it back into shape, making it effectively longer than originally (the whole mount is chromed brass).

Roland.

 

[Al Kaplan]

There's really no way to tell who did it. I was just too lazy and was afraid of what the heat from soldering might do. If you already had the entire lens mount apart it would be worh doing that way.

 

[ferider]

Just saying it was Minolta since the seller told me, Al. They did it as part of the front-element replacement. Don't know for sure, of course.

Roland.

 

[Al Kaplan]

Sometimes I wish that I'd kept mine but I've never been a big fan of the 28mm focal length. It as a nice little lens and extremely sharp. I always wondered it they had a back room deal with Leitz so the stock lens wouldn't actuate the 28mm frame on M bodies. According to Modern Photography Magazine at the time it was as good as the Elmarit, smaller, and half the price.

 

[Ronald M]

With the crop factor, a 28 is closest to a 35mm lens on film. So you want the frame lines for 35mm.

If you extend the lug, you get either 50 or 28/90 and you definately will not get a 28 mm angle of view on the crop sensor with a 28mm lens. You need a 21 for that.

So the good news is use as is.

 

[Spyderman]

Sorry Ronald, but I must say that what you said is total non-sense.

The 28 shows the 35+135 framelines on film Leica M cameras, and it shows the same on M8. Actually it shows the frameline which shows the field of view of 35mm lens on M8.

 

[kin]

Of course there is a way to bring up the correct frame line without messing with the Rokkor mount (I have such good memories with my Minolta kit from the days of the XD-7).

Just jam a thin cardboard under the frameline manual lever on the M8 after you have brought up the 28 frame lines and lock it in place. Simple and it works.

What I would like to see in the future is the M8 manual frameline lever has a pin to lock it to a certain position. Then all the trouble about frameline adapters, Type 1 or 2 mounts etc etc would be solved.

 

[Al Kaplan]

I remember seeing some M3 cameras many years ago that had been "customized" by removing the frame selector lever spring and somehow or another click stopping the three positions so you could just leave a thread mount adapter on the camera and use it like a thread mount camers.