darius
Newbie
Greetings!
Firstly a quick hello as I am a new RFF member; I have enjoyed very much what I've seen so far.
I have a question about the M2 framelines. The M2, of which I am a fairly recent owner, is a great pleasure to use after extensive shooting with the IIIc. I had got fairly used to the rather special focusing and framing double viewfinder on the IIIc, which helped me to see 50mm in a new way after much SLR use.
My question is concerning the accuracy of the M2 framelines. At the moment I just shoot 50, and find that I get a fair amount more on the negative than that which is framed, depending on the subject distance. I haven't tested extensively as the m2 has only been with me a few days, but though I love the parallax correction, I am hoping I can find a rule of thumb to use when shooting if I need to compose tightly, perhaps adding frameline widths mentally. Could anybody share their experience with me? And as I intend to shoot 35 and 90 eventually how would I deal with imagining the negative with those focal lengths?
I suspect a lot of shooting will solve this problem, but when I see some work of the great masters of M rangefinder cameras, and indeed screw cameras, I wonder how it is possible to reach such a finely tuned ability to control framing with the various obstacles inherent in rangefinder viewfinders.
Thanks for reading!
Darius
Firstly a quick hello as I am a new RFF member; I have enjoyed very much what I've seen so far.
I have a question about the M2 framelines. The M2, of which I am a fairly recent owner, is a great pleasure to use after extensive shooting with the IIIc. I had got fairly used to the rather special focusing and framing double viewfinder on the IIIc, which helped me to see 50mm in a new way after much SLR use.
My question is concerning the accuracy of the M2 framelines. At the moment I just shoot 50, and find that I get a fair amount more on the negative than that which is framed, depending on the subject distance. I haven't tested extensively as the m2 has only been with me a few days, but though I love the parallax correction, I am hoping I can find a rule of thumb to use when shooting if I need to compose tightly, perhaps adding frameline widths mentally. Could anybody share their experience with me? And as I intend to shoot 35 and 90 eventually how would I deal with imagining the negative with those focal lengths?
I suspect a lot of shooting will solve this problem, but when I see some work of the great masters of M rangefinder cameras, and indeed screw cameras, I wonder how it is possible to reach such a finely tuned ability to control framing with the various obstacles inherent in rangefinder viewfinders.
Thanks for reading!
Darius