LeicaVirgin1
Established
Dear Tom-
Thank you in advance for reading this post.
I love my M2, but I notice that on your M2's you generally have rewind levers attached to the rewind knobs of your cameras, (most of them). May I ask; which ones do you use and where can I purchase them?
Secondly, about a month ago I posted a thread regarding UVO filters on Leica Lenses, or for that matter any quality lens. I wanted to know if you used them on your lenses ALL the time for protection purposes? Or not use them at all, or just selectively? I use other filters for my "M" lenses such as REDS, ORANGE, and YELLOW for my B&W work, but of course that is "selectively" as written above. Just want your opinion on this one please.
Third, what makes LEITZ/LEICA GLASS so special? I mean, I have a few "M" bodies as mentioned from my previous post & I have focal lengths from 35mm to 135mm with MANY 50mm's in between those other focal lengths. They are ALL either LEITZ, or LEICA lenses. I have NIKON & CANON LENSES, (ALL REFLEX, THOUGH), and even though I am building my darkroom, as we speak, I generally take my exposed film, (B&W), to a local processor and have them process only and scan to a CD at a HIGH JPEG FORMAT & then just select and print digitally on an EPSON 4880 DIGITAL PRINTER FROM THE CD. I really can't tell the difference between the LEITZ/LEICA GLASS & THE NIKKOR/NIKKOR "ED" & CANON EF & CANON "L" GLASS. Will this change when I set up my darkroom?
My darkroom enlarger is the LEITZ/LEICA V35AF WITH 40MM LEITZ/LEICA ENLARGING LENS @ F2.8 THAT WAS MADE FOR THAT ENLARGER. My other lens for the enlarging head is a 50MM RODENSTOCK APO-RODAGON-"N"/F2.8.
I use either TRI-X, DELTA-400 PLUS-X, OR PAN-F FOR MY NEGATIVE EMULSIONS. I know you use XX KODAK MOTION PIC. FILM FOR YOUR STOCK. Where do I purchase XX from?
In addition, (yes, a long thread; my apologies), I have a 35mm LEICA f1.4 "SUMMILUX"-ASPH. Yet, I hate that BIG SQUARE HOOD THEY PROVIDE WITH THAT LENS; IT SUCKS! I feel it blocks too much of the VF FRAME LINES/WINDOW. Do you know where I can get a hood that WILL NOT VIGNETTE into the "FULL-FRAME" 35MM Image without blocking the VF/RF window? You know like the round ones for the 50mm Summilux's and Summicron's from days gone bye?
Lastly, can I use your RAPIDWINDER ON MY M2, M3, M4 & M6'S, (THE M6'S ARE OF THE "CLASSIC" DESIGNATION). Are the RAPIDWINDERS interchangeable from one "M" camera to another, or do you have to have different ones for different "M" cameras? Also, how do I purchase one from you? Do you still sale them. I live in the U.S. in HOT SoCal, USA.
Thank you!
Best,
DMB
:bang:
Thank you in advance for reading this post.
I love my M2, but I notice that on your M2's you generally have rewind levers attached to the rewind knobs of your cameras, (most of them). May I ask; which ones do you use and where can I purchase them?
Secondly, about a month ago I posted a thread regarding UVO filters on Leica Lenses, or for that matter any quality lens. I wanted to know if you used them on your lenses ALL the time for protection purposes? Or not use them at all, or just selectively? I use other filters for my "M" lenses such as REDS, ORANGE, and YELLOW for my B&W work, but of course that is "selectively" as written above. Just want your opinion on this one please.
Third, what makes LEITZ/LEICA GLASS so special? I mean, I have a few "M" bodies as mentioned from my previous post & I have focal lengths from 35mm to 135mm with MANY 50mm's in between those other focal lengths. They are ALL either LEITZ, or LEICA lenses. I have NIKON & CANON LENSES, (ALL REFLEX, THOUGH), and even though I am building my darkroom, as we speak, I generally take my exposed film, (B&W), to a local processor and have them process only and scan to a CD at a HIGH JPEG FORMAT & then just select and print digitally on an EPSON 4880 DIGITAL PRINTER FROM THE CD. I really can't tell the difference between the LEITZ/LEICA GLASS & THE NIKKOR/NIKKOR "ED" & CANON EF & CANON "L" GLASS. Will this change when I set up my darkroom?
My darkroom enlarger is the LEITZ/LEICA V35AF WITH 40MM LEITZ/LEICA ENLARGING LENS @ F2.8 THAT WAS MADE FOR THAT ENLARGER. My other lens for the enlarging head is a 50MM RODENSTOCK APO-RODAGON-"N"/F2.8.
I use either TRI-X, DELTA-400 PLUS-X, OR PAN-F FOR MY NEGATIVE EMULSIONS. I know you use XX KODAK MOTION PIC. FILM FOR YOUR STOCK. Where do I purchase XX from?
In addition, (yes, a long thread; my apologies), I have a 35mm LEICA f1.4 "SUMMILUX"-ASPH. Yet, I hate that BIG SQUARE HOOD THEY PROVIDE WITH THAT LENS; IT SUCKS! I feel it blocks too much of the VF FRAME LINES/WINDOW. Do you know where I can get a hood that WILL NOT VIGNETTE into the "FULL-FRAME" 35MM Image without blocking the VF/RF window? You know like the round ones for the 50mm Summilux's and Summicron's from days gone bye?
Lastly, can I use your RAPIDWINDER ON MY M2, M3, M4 & M6'S, (THE M6'S ARE OF THE "CLASSIC" DESIGNATION). Are the RAPIDWINDERS interchangeable from one "M" camera to another, or do you have to have different ones for different "M" cameras? Also, how do I purchase one from you? Do you still sale them. I live in the U.S. in HOT SoCal, USA.
Thank you!
Best,
DMB
:bang:
Laforet
Nowhere Man
Greetings, I dont want to hijack this thread but it seems like I will be able to asnwer a few questions while Tom is away for holiday
I too cannot live without rewind cranks, there have been many designs around, see the forum owner's page for details
http://www.cameraquest.com/LRWlev.htm
but the ones you can find new easily are the official Leica crank and the PhotoEquip(previously known as GMP) version. They are very similar, and overall PhotoEquip ones are the best for value,(and better engineered from my PoV) unless you fancy that huge screwdriver which came free in the Leica box. GMP sells them at their website for IIRC $119, B&H have black new old stock in the Used Dept at half the price, probably done cunningly to hide the bargain from the eyes of the public. Silver ones were avaliable in the last two years but no more.
UV filters nowadays does not cut ultraviolet as much as they used to do, since most of us only use it as a protector. Not sure what vintage of lens do you have, some early ones scratch easily so it is a good idea to have one on permenantly. For other lenses they are nice to have but not necessary, unless you know that you will be going into somewhere with possible dust/sand/sea spray/champaign risks etc where extra protection is never a bad idea. With rangefinders you dont view through the lens, so flare can be a bit unpredictable and that is another reason why I dont use protective filters on RFs.
Tom's own site can be found on the left-hand side panel, there you can find all about pricing etc. The normal "classic" rapidwinder fits all motor-capable M bodies, namely every model from M4-2 onwards, there is a limited version for M2. Vanilla M3 and M4 require their wind-on shaft to be lengthened in order to use the rapidwinder.
I too cannot live without rewind cranks, there have been many designs around, see the forum owner's page for details
http://www.cameraquest.com/LRWlev.htm
but the ones you can find new easily are the official Leica crank and the PhotoEquip(previously known as GMP) version. They are very similar, and overall PhotoEquip ones are the best for value,(and better engineered from my PoV) unless you fancy that huge screwdriver which came free in the Leica box. GMP sells them at their website for IIRC $119, B&H have black new old stock in the Used Dept at half the price, probably done cunningly to hide the bargain from the eyes of the public. Silver ones were avaliable in the last two years but no more.
UV filters nowadays does not cut ultraviolet as much as they used to do, since most of us only use it as a protector. Not sure what vintage of lens do you have, some early ones scratch easily so it is a good idea to have one on permenantly. For other lenses they are nice to have but not necessary, unless you know that you will be going into somewhere with possible dust/sand/sea spray/champaign risks etc where extra protection is never a bad idea. With rangefinders you dont view through the lens, so flare can be a bit unpredictable and that is another reason why I dont use protective filters on RFs.
Tom's own site can be found on the left-hand side panel, there you can find all about pricing etc. The normal "classic" rapidwinder fits all motor-capable M bodies, namely every model from M4-2 onwards, there is a limited version for M2. Vanilla M3 and M4 require their wind-on shaft to be lengthened in order to use the rapidwinder.