M2 & Voigtlander 40mm Nokton combo ok?

lillymoll

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Hi,
Just ordered an M2 (can't wait! - My first RF!) - but for reassurance - can anyone confim that the Voigtlander 40mm Nokton can be used without any problems with an M2? I'm assuming it should be ok as the lens will bring up the 50mm frame?

Seen some results from the Nokton on pbase and they look stunning!

Thanks.
 
It's a great combo. The Nokton brings up 50mm lines unless you modify it.
From 4m on, the 35mm lines are more accurate for framing the Nokton.

Roland.
 
Lillymoll - I use the same combo, I'll second ferider to say it's great. I wear glasses so what I can see is pretty much 40mm.
 
I love the CV40 on my M2. I like it better than I thought I would, the images have a really nice look to them. Here's a couple I shot at or near max aperture:

296846184_6dae5bf0c9.jpg


390871186_98cd39769d.jpg
 
lillymoll said:
Hi,
Just ordered an M2 (can't wait! - My first RF!) - but for reassurance - can anyone confim that the Voigtlander 40mm Nokton can be used without any problems with an M2? I'm assuming it should be ok as the lens will bring up the 50mm frame?

Seen some results from the Nokton on pbase and they look stunning!

Thanks.

It is more than OK. I have been using M2's for 40+ years and my standard lens was always the 35, either a Summicron or the Pre-Asph. Summilux. I was convinced that this habit could not be broken, but it has! These days i use the 40/1,4 as my standard lens on the M2's. The "claw" that engages the viewfinder in the M's can easily be filed down to give you the 35 frame, rather than the 50 frame. This works better for me as I do wear glasses and the 0,72 magnifiction of the M2 puts the 35 framelines right at the edge of what you see. With the 40 it is "what you see is what you get" as you dont have to press your glasses against the viewfinder.
My feling is that the M2 is the best M camera ever. there is nothing on it that is not needed, they sturdy and rarely go out of whack.
I suspect that all we really need is a M2, a 21, a 40 and a 90, but just in case I keeping all the other stuff, including 7 35/2 and a couple of 35/1,4's.
 
lilli

A fine file (like a nail file) on the correct bayonet lug will work but it not for the faint of heart, a technician may be a better option.
Alternatively an elastic band between the viewfinder selector and the strap lug will work wonders but you will always need to carry a spare elastic band as they break after a few months. I think it is the ozone hole. I have less hair then Tom hence the sun hat...

Noel
 
Hi, and thanks to everyone, I'm more than happy with the choice now - can't wait for the post - arriving end of next week!

Incidentally - I know the M3 is the Holy Grail but I'm much happier now I've heard such positive things from everyone about the M2. And those sample images look great. (If mine can even look 10% as good......)
 
Not really but...

Not really but...

darkprints said:
Tom - and others who shoot b&w - Is the single-coat version of the 40 Nokton really superior to the m.c.?

I think the SC version has a unique look for me. It does color quite well also. On the M3 and M6, the printed results are fantastic.
 
darkprints said:
Tom - and others who shoot b&w - Is the single-coat version of the 40 Nokton really superior to the m.c.?


The difference between the SC and MC version is subtle. If you are shooting in low light situations there are more details in the shadow area as compared to shooting with the MC. As with everything there is a cost involved, your highlights are more "smeared" and has a definite halo around them.
I have both versions and in most cases i could not tell which one the picture was taken with. Both are very good lenses and will do a good job of rendering our world in monochrome. Only reason to get the SC is if you are working in "ragged edge" light. F1.4 and contrasty situations, thats when you will notice it. A negative will print nicely with #2 filter, while with the MC probably will require a #1 or less for the details in the shadows. It is very much a matter of taste and availability.
 
Honestly, I have not used this lens in either version. I have, however, used other lenses - especially Tessars - in uncoated, single coated & multi-coated versions. The real difference happens between coated & uncoated. There is very little practical real world difference - in _my_ opinion, please note, - between single & multicoated lenses. Even my favorite lense have this same false dicotomy about them.

Simple get a bit of glass, learn what it does and doesn't do & you'll be a few townships ahead of the game.

William
 
Sorry if this is a stupid question but regarding the SC/MC subject. Is there some kind of filter for the lens which would make the SC version behave like a MC? Regarding the halo etc.

(I have the SC and will make my own testshots soon.)
 
I guess it really is 'each to their own', because I didn't like the results I was getting from an SC Nokton. The negs looked thin and the prints were flat to my eyes. I finally sold it after trying a Zeiss Planar 50/f2 and a 50/f2 Summicron. Both gave me better results, but the Planar was so good I bought it there and then. Prints have a 3D quality that puts them in another league imho
 
robbo said:
I guess it really is 'each to their own', because I didn't like the results I was getting from an SC Nokton. The negs looked thin and the prints were flat to my eyes. I finally sold it after trying a Zeiss Planar 50/f2 and a 50/f2 Summicron. Both gave me better results, but the Planar was so good I bought it there and then. Prints have a 3D quality that puts them in another league imho

That was why I went with Minolta M-Rokkor 40/2 lens and not Nokton. I think M-Rokkor is a good choice if you want a 40mm lens. Maybe even the best choice, really.
 
I bought a 40mm SC Nokton when they first came out and used it with my M2. I sold it after six months because I couldn't get use to what I thought was harsh out of focus. I moved on to a 35 Cron.
 
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