M3 and Polarizers

waynec

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Just wondering really if any of you out there are using polarizers. I'm gonna start shooting the M3 again, which I really never shot that much, so not alot of time in the saddle. I do plan on shooting both b&w and color films .It gets pretty sunny down here in Fla, and I'll be doing a major portion of shots being marine scenes.
 
Shop around for a swing out. The polarizer swings up in front of the rangefinder window so you can adjust for effect, then swings down in front of the lens for exposure. The problem is metering. I used one on a M6 so the camera did the work.
 
As you probably know, polarizers are a problem on rangefinders because you need to look through them to see the effect. The most elegant solution I've seen is to use a slotted lens hood, and the polarizer in front of it. That way you can see through the polarizer through the viewfinder and the slot in the hood, provided it intrudes enough into the viewfinder image. Most hoods don't have threads in front, but you could easily rig something up with a cheap Chinese hood, glue and a threaded ring or adapter.
Haven't done this myself. It might flare, given that the polarizer isn't hooded and some light will get behind it through the slots in the hood.
 
Shop around for a swing out. The polarizer swings up in front of the rangefinder window so you can adjust for effect, then swings down in front of the lens for exposure. The problem is metering. I used one on a M6 so the camera did the work.

Or VisoFlex with 65 3.5 and polarizing filter on it.

But honestly, polarizer is worse reason to use M3 again. M3 is people's camera, not reflections catcher.
For marine scenery any SLR with decent metering will do.
 
Shop around for a swing out. The polarizer swings up in front of the rangefinder window so you can adjust for effect, then swings down in front of the lens for exposure. The problem is metering. I used one on a M6 so the camera did the work.
Sounds like a good reason to get an M6.
 
Yeah I didn't think there be too many using them, and I knew of the swing out a long time ago. I might rig something up just for grins and see how resourceful I can get, but It's probaby a lost cause with the metering.
 
A few years ago Kenko came out with a polarizing filter that had a separate finder mounted in the accessory shoe. The filter and finder had a number sequence on their rims and after looking through the finder for the proper effect you just transferred that setting to the filter. I don't see them for sale anymore so quite possibly there wasn't a big enough market for them at the time.


PF
 
Or VisoFlex with 65 3.5 and polarizing filter on it.

But honestly, polarizer is worse reason to use M3 again. M3 is people's camera, not reflections catcher.
For marine scenery any SLR with decent metering will do.

I must agree, the m3 is not the best tool for the job if you want to use a polarizer.
 
There is one of those photo rules: sunny 16, etc., that you could find on the internet. It is something like with flat hand point your thumb to the sun and then something I forget. I've used it with my Rolleiflex and it worked but you still have the metering problem.

EDIT: I found it: https://www.mujahidurrehman.com/polarizer-filter-for-landscape-photography/

AND I always just put a small meter in front of the meter to meter exposure.
 
Heliopan make polarisers with numbers around the edge. You can look through the filter to obtain the desred result then attach the filter to the camera lens and adjust the number to match.
Fiddly but cheap.
 
Heliopan make polarisers with numbers around the edge. You can look through the filter to obtain the desred result then attach the filter to the camera lens and adjust the number to match.
Fiddly but cheap.


That sounds like a better idea, but then you have to take the filter off for a reset if you change the light direction in the scene.


PF
 
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