M3 Prism where to find one?

[B-9]

I recently purchased a beater M3 DS, and plan to do a overhaul on it myself. I figure I need something to spend some time on (that I can enjoy), when school works got me burnt out or feelin dizzy.

The main problem im having is locating a new prism for the RF, now if I had the prism im sure ide be able to re-glue it or something, but it was not included.
The camera appears to have been mid-restore.

Big question is, where do I find a replacement and how much should I expect to reasonably pay for it? Note: I do have the rangefinder assembly just need the prism! Itd be great if somone had what I was looking for here?!?

Any help? Ive called my local shop and unfortunately it was more of a comical experience, after being thrown a stupid number for them to even tinker with it.

Also if serial number has anything to do with it, 856***

-Devin

 

[Steinberg2010]

You could try calling someone who handles repairs like DAG, Sherry Krauter or Youxin Ye. Whether they would be prepared to offer advice as well - I don't know.

~S

 

[B-9]

thanks for the response! not really looking for advice about restoring the camera, just looking for some direction as far as finding the part im in need of.
Are those RFF s/n's?

-Devin

 

[Steinberg2010]

Sure - I was just thinking that they might be able to source a part for you as I believe they may have done for others on this forum. DAG is Don Goldberg (I don't know if he is on this forum), Sherry Krauter can be found by googling 'Sherry Krauter Golden Touch' and I guess Youxin can also be found through google... Sorry I've never had to deal with any of these people myself!!

All best,

~S

 

[B-9]

Thanks a ton for the references! Ill be sure to do some google'n tomorrow.

-Devin

 

[johannielscom]

Be sure to google CCR Luton as well and read the page on rangefinder restauration. There were at least three different RF setups used in the M3 during its production. They are not interchangeable.

It is unlikely you will get the RF aligned properly, this is a job that requires less-than-millimeter precision, skill and experience. Tomosy's book on Leica repair only covers the procedures but not those very specific tricks and approaches to get things repaired with the accuracy you want a Leica to have.

Sorry to put a finger in your cake.

 

[B-9]

Having the rangefinder precisely adjusted, is where an experienced tech will come in. The camera has other issues that will need to be adressed on my own. I cannot afford a 600$ repair bill. So im looking do to most of the work myself. Things like this, are common sense :] I have not the tools or skill to properly adjust the RF.

Thanks for the response!
Here's a few teaser's


Leica M3 DS 67' by B-9, on Flickr


Leica M3 DS 67' by B-9, on Flickr

 

[batterytypehah!]

I'm working on a similar M3 project. My VF/RF is complete, but separated, and the removable parts of the body (bottom, back, spool) are gone.

Not too far in yet (I don't want to break the factory seal before I have all the pieces) but I can already tell you, do not skimp on tools. Flexiclamps of the right size are a must. I'm using the Micro-Tools set for the M3.

According to my sources, individual VF/RF parts were never available from Leica. It was meant to be replaced as a whole.

 

[B-9]

It appears that the spools are rather an expensive part! I cant see why a take-up spool would run close to 100$ on eBay, is there no one re-popping these?

My baseplate is rather abused and shows a good deal of oxidation from what appears long term storage. Im lucky enough to have a chasis with a good shutter, the speeds are pretty spot on at every setting. It seems the hurtle for me is finding a VF/RF at all, let alone the correct one.

I read somwhere online, ill check exactly where, that the closer to the final production year the more value they hold? from my research my camera was produced sometime in 1967, it appears correct having a metal pressure plate and budha strap lugs. This being the last production year of the M3 if im not mistaken.

Ide say ide almost prefer to have a complete RF to re-glue and a shutter in need of service than the other way around. As ive seen repair quotes as cheap as 175$ for a shutter overhaul. Hopefully getting the RF and having it installed wont run me more than 300$ Ive contacted a handful of leica repairmen with no success.

I was also looking into the tool kits sold on eBay, appear to be a pretty good deal, and I plan to invest in a set as soon as I free up so more money.
Thanks for your response!

 

[johannielscom]

B-9,

If your camera has a serial number that dates it to 1967, then there is something fishy going on.

In 1967 there were only 30 M3's produced, all in the 116xxxx range. Those were definitely no Buddha strap lug cameras, and no double stroke either.

Remove the inner bottom plate that covers the mechanism in the crate and see what number it says there. The top plate dating it to 1967 cannot be original to the camera if it has Budha strap lugs and is a double stroke camera.

What are the first three or four digits from the cameras serial number?

The RF isn't the only critical mechanism in the camera. I'm inclined to say that all (ANY) mechanism in the camera is pretty critital in that it takes great precision to lubricate or adjust it.

I'd ask Youxin Ye what he can do for you, and just how much shy of USD 600 you can get. There is a sticky thread in the Leica M forum that contains address data for many (most?) Leica repair people and his (email) address can be found there too.

 

[B-9]

Please excuse my ignorance, I know only what google has provided for me.

the serial number is as stated above, and I started to think shortly after posting this, that it doesnt make much since having such a low serial number and being such a later production, as stated by cameraquest the serial number starting with 856*** is of 1967

Ill have to take a look when I get back home in a few days ill be sure to post this so keep a look out!

This will be my first full on Leica M experience, I did have the pleasure of using a M4-P several years ago for a few months, and enjoyed it enough to buy this beater! that and always having wanted a DS M3.

Also I did think it fishy to have the older lugs, along with the metal pressure plate, where these two features ever seen together?

 

[johannielscom]

They were seen together, no problem there.

The initial setup had top plate fitting screws, Budha lugs, glass pressure plate and shutter speeds reading ..., 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, ...

Later, they first omitted the top plate fitting screws, then switched the pressure plate for a metal one, then switched the shutter speeds to 'modern' progression ..., 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, ... and finally switched from Budha lugs to 'regular' lugs.

CameraQuest site says:

1/5/57 : M3 : new shutter speed sequence : 854001 - 858000 : 4000

So your camera would be from 1957, and would be from the first batch of 4,000 with the 'modern' shutter speed progressions.

If your film transport, slow speeds and shutter are all fine then you're mostly out of the woods and it might be doable to restore the camera after all.

I really do recommend Youxin. He can do wonders and might have a decent price in the process as well. Recently I had a real early M3 come stay with me that had it's RF replaced and a CLA by him and I cannot find any flaw in it.

Good luck on the job!

 

[B-9]

I believ the list to have a typo, im almost certain now it should say 57' not 67'
As 844*** started the metal pressure plate in 57' if im not mistaken?

 

[B-9]

Thanks for the correction! and im going to give him a call/email shortly! IF I can do it for the price my Nikkor 35-70/2.8 will fetch, that would be nice.

 

[batterytypehah!]

It appears that the spools are rather an expensive part! I cant see why a take-up spool would run close to 100$ on eBay, is there no one re-popping these?

I think that's too high but yes, they are expensive. (So is everything else.) The spool from my FED-2 seems to fit and work fine, though -- mind you, still without the bottom. The FED spool doesn't have the nifty extending knob, though, so it requires slim fingers to insert and remove.

 

[batterytypehah!]

Johan, thanks for the hints and reminders. Small correction, it's CRR Luton, not CCR. I had misplaced that link so thanks for jogging my mind.

 

[B-9]

I was also curious of the russian spools, as i have atleast 3 from various ltm camera's that I have no use for. Ill have to check if my Zorki 1C spool will work with baseplate attached, slim fingers i dont not have, but being able to use a cheaper spool would make buying a handful and pre-spooling film worth the extra effort.

 

[B-9]

@Batterytypehah!: How do you like the Bessa L? im thinking of picking one up for a lens it comes with, wondering if itd be worth a little extra cash over just buying the lens? (25/4)

 

[batterytypehah!]

I hate it but that's just me 😀 Too much plastic, too big, too noisy, and I've never liked three-LED "meters." I have it so I can keep shooting while I'm tinkering with the IIIf which needs work.

That said, a bare body goes for about $100 and you just can't argue with that. If you can afford it, why not? Should be easy to sell again if you decide it's not for you.

 

[B-9]

Thats what I was afraid of! It does look to be a ton of plastic, and that meter readout looks absolutely intolerable. I think ill pass on the camera and lens combo and just opt to buy the lens, its more than a 100$ difference.

and... well I proly dont need anymore LTM RF's
Having just finished overhauling a Zorki 1c (Zorki/Zorki) and having a few more to attend to.