M3 shutter capping continues after multiple repairs

bruce.wilcox

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Seeking advice on an M3 that's showing shutter problems even after multiple repairs.

Last summer I bought my first Leica: an M3 DS that I found for a reasonable price on eBay. I knew I was taking a risk buying from the 'Bay, but I factored in the price of a CLA and possibly some other repairs and took the plunge. (I also found a 50mm Summicron in wonderful cosmetic and optical shape.)

The M3 had a rather dim viewfinder (as I expected), and the initial roll of film displayed some shutter capping. I sent the body off to Youxin Ye and, as others have experienced, was impressed with his short turnaround time, reasonable fees and excellent communication. The viewfinder came back in glorious condition - Youxin had to remove and clean the elements and replace the adhesive, and the view through the finder blew me away. The rangefinder spot was spot-on, so to speak.

I noticed, however, that the shutter capping problem was still seen, and was actually a bit worse - it was now seen in varying degrees on almost all shutter speeds. I sent the body back to Youxin and he said that it was unusual to see this issue at that wide a range of speeds, and that he'd need to replace the body's chassis. This he did, and the camera made it back to me by the fall of last year.

Then things got busy for me, and the usual nine months of rain here in the Pacific Northwest settled in. I found myself shooting very little over the winter, but I did take out the M3 out of its bag (it was being stored in a warm and dry place) at least monthly to fire the shutter a few times at each speed. Last week I finally pulled out the body to do some serious testing with a new (for me) film.

Last fall a test roll after the second repair showed no shutter capping, but now I'm seeing the problem again. Not at all speeds, but at least from 1/250th through 1/25th, the speeds I use most often. After a couple of rolls showed the characteristic unexposed strip on the trailing edge of the frames I spent a few days "exercising" the shutter by firing it dozens of times at all speeds over the course of each day. I just looked at another test roll with frames shot all all speeds (except B) and I'm still seeing the underexposed strip on the frames shot at 1/250th through 1/25th.

I'm not sure what to do at this point and I'm seeking advice from forum members. I don't blame Youxin, and I'm inclined to think that this particular body (even with a new chassis, apparently) has issues that might make it not worth further repair. The initial purchase was lowish for that model, but that plus what I've put into it for repairs is up near the high end of what M3s are going for. I'm tempted to write it off as a lost gamble and sell the body as-is.

(I also have a used Bessa R3a on it's way. I'm crossing my fingers on that body's rangefinder.)

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Bruce
 
Send it to Don Goldberg. If anyone can bring it back to life, that's him.

I had an M3 with problems: leaks, frame spacing, film advance lever sounding like grinding gear... Sent it to one good technician and she declared the camera in its last breath almost. Still did some work on it, but pronounced it almost dead.

As a last resource, I sent it to Don.

He wrote back (after a three-, almost four-month wait) to tell me what he'd done: it was the film advance and some light baffles. Also asked me whether I wanted the camera to remain a double-stroke or turn it into a single-stroke one. Oddly enough, the second choice added some $100 to the cost, so I kept it DS.

He sent it back. To this day, not one issue, not a problem, not even a hiccup.

Send your camera to Don... and then, sit down and plan what to do for the following four months. The good thing is that when he lets you know it's ready, you feel like it's Christmas all over again! 🙂
 
Send it to Don Goldberg. If anyone can bring it back to life, that's him.

I had an M3 with problems: leaks, frame spacing, film advance lever sounding like grinding gear... Sent it to one good technician and she declared the camera in its last breath almost. Still did some work on it, but pronounced it almost dead.

As a last resource, I sent it to Don.

He wrote back (after a three-, almost four-month wait) to tell me what he'd done: it was the film advance and some light baffles. Also asked me whether I wanted the camera to remain a double-stroke or turn it into a single-stroke one. Oddly enough, the second choice added some $100 to the cost, so I kept it DS.

He sent it back. To this day, not one issue, not a problem, not even a hiccup.

Send your camera to Don... and then, sit down and plan what to do for the following four months. The good thing is that when he lets you know it's ready, you feel like it's Christmas all over again! 🙂

I agree with this. I have nothing against Youxin. I work with him all the time and highly recommend him. But sometimes a problem needs a second set of eyes. Youxin has given it a shot a couple times, give someone else a chance.
 
Dag

Dag

Thanks for the advice and recommendations. What's the right or best way to start the process with Don? The only web site I'm seeing is dagcamera.com, and I'm not seeing any reference to a process for repairs. I've heard Don tends to be very busy and sometimes hard to get in touch with - if I wanted to send him this M3 body, should I call first, email and wait for a reply, or just ship him the body with a description of the problem?
 
Don usually replies my emails within hours. Keep it short and right to heart of the problem and don't forget to put an appropriate title.

You can send the camera directly to him, I guess. But I would have asked for his permission first.

I hope everything turns out well.
 
Thanks again, everyone. It looks like my next challenge is choosing between Sherry and Don. My understanding is that they have similar skills and heavy demands for their services, and that I probably can't go wrong with either.
 
I get the sense in this forum DAG and Sherry are the "premium" tier of leica service. Although I'm pretty curious what Youxin would say about this. I think he would not be offended even if you suggest sending it to DAG/Sherry.
Your call of course.
 
What to do when choosing who to send this camera to?

My logic: I want a quick repair, Sherry. Downside, she takes payment in checks only. I don't care how long it takes, Don. Upside: he takes payment through Paypal.

There you go! 🙂
 
I get the sense in this forum DAG and Sherry are the "premium" tier of leica service. Although I'm pretty curious what Youxin would say about this. I think he would not be offended even if you suggest sending it to DAG/Sherry.
Your call of course.

Not sure what he would say about classifying different techs, but I know he has no problems referring to different people. My IIIg has a little separation in the viewfinder. It is plenty usable as is, but I asked him about the cost of fixing it while he CLA'd the camera. He said he didn't have the parts and that I should contact DAG as he likely could take care of it.
 
What to do when choosing who to send this camera to?

My logic: I want a quick repair, Sherry. Downside, she takes payment in checks only. I don't care how long it takes, Don. Upside: he takes payment through Paypal.

There you go! 🙂

Thanks much for that. for this one I'll probably go to Don and plan on shooting with my soon-to-arrive R3a to get me through the next few months.
 
I get the sense in this forum DAG and Sherry are the "premium" tier of leica service. Although I'm pretty curious what Youxin would say about this. I think he would not be offended even if you suggest sending it to DAG/Sherry.
Your call of course.

In the case of this body Youxin's given the shutter issues his best shot twice. I appreciate his efforts, and I'm still a fan. (Magic job on that finder, I tell you!)
 
Adjusting the curtain tension doesn't mean the speeds are correct.
If there's enough difference between opening and closing curtains there can be uneven exposure across the film.
The tension should be at very similar values to start. Travel times on the M3 should be around 12-12.5ms. I couldn't find the spec so am using times for the similar K1000/Spotmatic shutters.
Rick Oleson has a very nice how-to on his site. Izzat classic camera repair here?
I noticed one article that said if the leading curtain has too much tension, it may not be possible to get the speed correct.
Watching the adjusting M3 thing linked to. It seems like his 1 second is running way too fast.
 
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