Scheelings
Well-known
Hi everyone,
I've recently just become an M8 user! (migrated from a Sigma DP1)
I've bought a 12mm Voigtlander II lens. I have a B&W UV/IR filter and I've coded the lens as WATE (010000).
I was aware of the cyan drift issue beforehand but was under the impression that a combination of IR filter and coding removed the cyan corners.
When I switch the camera on it shows Tri-Elmar + UV/IR with the option of 16, 18 or 21mm. So I guess that it has been correctly coded.
However it doesn't seem to make ANY difference as the corners are still cyan.:bang:
My software version is 2.005.
Is there something I'm doing wrong?
I've recently just become an M8 user! (migrated from a Sigma DP1)
I've bought a 12mm Voigtlander II lens. I have a B&W UV/IR filter and I've coded the lens as WATE (010000).
I was aware of the cyan drift issue beforehand but was under the impression that a combination of IR filter and coding removed the cyan corners.
When I switch the camera on it shows Tri-Elmar + UV/IR with the option of 16, 18 or 21mm. So I guess that it has been correctly coded.
However it doesn't seem to make ANY difference as the corners are still cyan.:bang:
My software version is 2.005.
Is there something I'm doing wrong?
Ben Z
Veteran
When I had a M8 I found that there is no code that removes cyan corners from the 12mm adequately. There are two alternative solutions:
1. Use Cornerfix in post processing. You can leave the lens un-coded, but since Cornerfix is standalone, it's easier to pick out the 12mm shots to assemble them in a batch for Cornerfix if you have the lens coded. It's easy to generate a custom profile in Cornerfix based on whatever degree of under- or over-correction your code renders. Or code it as any lens 50mm or longer, as the M8 doesn't apply any cyan correction, and then the available profiles for the 12 will work. I'm not sure what frame lines the MK-II (M-mount) 12mm brings up, but if it's the 28/90 you have a bunch of choices, as with 50. If it brings up the 24/35 frame lines then you could find what the new code is for the 135 APO-Telyt and use that.
2. Use a B+W 489 filter. It has exactly the right amount of corrective strength for the 12mm. However, it does cost (IIRC) 1/3-stop and it does impart a very faint green cast. But it's an overall cast, which is simple one-click to adjust in post.
I chose #2 and was happy with it. My 12 is the screw version, and I DIY'd a filter holder for a 55mm filter.
1. Use Cornerfix in post processing. You can leave the lens un-coded, but since Cornerfix is standalone, it's easier to pick out the 12mm shots to assemble them in a batch for Cornerfix if you have the lens coded. It's easy to generate a custom profile in Cornerfix based on whatever degree of under- or over-correction your code renders. Or code it as any lens 50mm or longer, as the M8 doesn't apply any cyan correction, and then the available profiles for the 12 will work. I'm not sure what frame lines the MK-II (M-mount) 12mm brings up, but if it's the 28/90 you have a bunch of choices, as with 50. If it brings up the 24/35 frame lines then you could find what the new code is for the 135 APO-Telyt and use that.
2. Use a B+W 489 filter. It has exactly the right amount of corrective strength for the 12mm. However, it does cost (IIRC) 1/3-stop and it does impart a very faint green cast. But it's an overall cast, which is simple one-click to adjust in post.
I chose #2 and was happy with it. My 12 is the screw version, and I DIY'd a filter holder for a 55mm filter.
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jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
Even easier - shoot a LCC profile in Capture One and from then on it is a 0.1 second correction.
Ben Z
Veteran
My version of Capture 1 (4) doesn't seem to have LCC, or at least I can't find it. Do you like 5 better than LR3 in general with the M9? Aside from the LCC (for red edge) are there any other benefits you've found? Unfortunately I used up my one free upgrade to go from LE to 4, and I'm on the fence about paying to upgrade to 5.
Scheelings
Well-known
Hi Jaap,
Is it possible to do some kind of batch process with L3 instead since I already use that? Also - how does each program distinguish between photos?
I have my 12mm encoded as WATE, but neither my 28mm Zeiss or my 50mm Leica II are encoded..