M8 Lenses: A “secret” M-Coder Ring

Etrigan63,
Thanks for you observations and for the link the the pen website. Sharpie Indusrial fine tip sounds like the winner so far.

Although co-molding a metal lens code stencil into the plastic M-Coder handle sure sounds nifty, my apraisal of the idea is this:
Functionally there would not be no improvement
It would force the cost of production up by 4 to 5 times
The molding operation would be more complex and bring along a higher rejection rate
The stencil material would have to be stainless, so there would need to be a stamping press mold, or laser cut operation to form the stencil

These complexities are eliminated if the part is properly molded in ABS.

My next M-Coder test shot should meet the standard. I will post photos in a few days showing the improvements
 
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I bought some Industrial Sharpies from my local office supply yesterday for USD$0.99 each. They had to order them from their distributor, but they arrived the next morning.

Since I tend to lose things, I bought two each of the Fine Pont Black (Item #13601) and the Extra Fine Point Black (Item # 13801).

Of interest (at least to me): the label on the markers says "Do Not Shake".

Well, now that I look, it says that on the regular Sharpie markers as well. I had not noticed that. I wonder why they say that?

Regards,

--Bob
 
Tim, if you feel you can pull it off with ABS injection molded plastic, then I believe you. I am, at best, a shade-tree engineer. My formal education is in computer science. I still believe the extra-fine Sharpie would be better suited to the task than the fatter fine point.
 
Tim, any updates? Or have you been swamped by ThumbsUp orders? I just got a CV 25mm P and I am dying to try it out. Need beta testers?
 
Just an idea ... instead of using a Sharpie or some other permanent marker, why not try a cold blueing solution used for touching up the finish on guns? For lack of a better term, the selenium dioxide "stains" the metal by reacting with the iron content. This may prove to be more durable than ink -- however, this is something that you would need to experiement with -- I'm not even sure if it work with the stainless alloy of the lens mount. Like I said, just and idea ...
 
D-Coder now joins M-Coder

D-Coder now joins M-Coder

To all asking about M-Coder:
The second test shot went perfectly and my mold is now working as it should. I have some photos of the fully formed M-Coder below. This second test shot was made with white ABS because it was readily avalable on the day of the test shot. Produciton M-Coders will be blue.

PhotoMat,
Great screen name! I have seen some excellent industrial marking stains as you mentioned often used in machine shops to help make scribes or etching in steel more visible. Perhaps one of the most popular is Dykem Blue. I cannot reccommend the industrial stains however. Even though they may hold up much longer, there is an inherent danger to your lens, should you spill this material. I prefer to use the 'permament' industrial markers. They are much more forgiving.

Entrigan63,
Yes, I have been very busy with Thumbs Up. I had no idea how busy I would be. But M-Coder continues its advance and I have photos for you all below.

Also, I am introducing the D-Coder, which will go along with M-Coder. It contains all pertinent lens data needed for encoding, and will serve to prevent getting the code on the lens reversed! Its easy to get confused looking at the various charts on the net. The D-Coder displays the encoding marks in the same position you will use for the M-Coder. Its just about impossible to get it wrong...but one of us will succeed in doing so...probably me! The D-Coder contains a list of 31 lenses, including the new Summarit f/2.5 series, for those wanting to know those codes also. Of course those lenses are already encoded by Leica.


Below:
A photo showing the results after the second test shot of M-Coder. Mateiral is now flowing through all parts of the mold, especially the delicate coding openings. Production parts will be blue.

1471639042_43ab644652.jpg



Below:
My CAD model of my D-Coder. This CAD model is used to create the design for the silk screen printing screens and for the overall shape of the D-Coder wheels. There is lens data on both sides.
1470783947_ea1a7acb97.jpg




Below:
I have the Exacto knife and paper out again to mock up my D-Coder. The function is straightforward, you just turn the D-Coder wheel until the desired lens shows up in the lens window...then look at the M-Coder shown on the left side and see which spots to fill in. Whala.

1470781961_611ce83397.jpg


and yes...I am just about to go nuts trying to sort out these text colors....I may have to stop this foolishness.
 
I went a way for a couple of weeks and...

I went a way for a couple of weeks and...

Tim--

Gone for a couple of weeks, using the M8 with Thumbs Up Mod 1 attached. Absolutely delighted, and here I return and what do I find? Yet another wonderfully executed idea, about to come to fruition. Please place me on the list.

Cheers,
Norm Snyder
 
Tim emailed me some top secret images of packaging ideas for the Coder and all I can say is that Tim is not only a very smart guy but is also a hugely talented package designer! Anyone who has received their Thumbs Up knows that already!

I can say no more . . . ! ;-) Except to say I think you will all be delighted!
 
quadtones said:
Tim--

Gone for a couple of weeks, using the M8 with Thumbs Up Mod 1 attached. Absolutely delighted, and here I return and what do I find? Yet another wonderfully executed idea, about to come to fruition. Please place me on the list.

Cheers,



Add me to the list. I have 1 Leica lens and 8 non Leica lenses, all with no codes.
I want both the coder and decoder gadgets!! ;)
Dave G. in NJ
Click to expand...
 
M-Coder

M-Coder

It is a brilliant idea and save me some time getting the CV and ZM lenses coded. Can't wait to lay my hands on your m-coder. Keep me posted.
 
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