M8 metering performance - any probs

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evad1962

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Hi people

I'm currently looking to purchase the M8 and a few lenses. One question - has anyone experienced any metering problems whilst using the camera? I only ask because I've used the Leica 'R' system extensively over the last 12 years or so and every one of the three bodies i've owned (an R5 & two R8's) has had unnacceptable inconsistencies when spot metering...intermittent problems but regular & annoying and usually getting worse as time passes - eg: shooting outdoors in bright sunlight in AE, exposure readings would range from 1/750th at f5.6 to 4 secs at f5.6 in a matter of moments, while pointing the camera at the same subject.

I'm obviously a bit apprehensive about buying into Leica again and risking similar problems - was I just unlucky, is it an 'R' thing, or are metering inconsistencies a Leica 'thing' - any probs in this area generally with Leica M's?
Am I being paranoid? Everyone seems to think i am : )

Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Dave
 
I carry my sekonic meter with me for metering my M3. I find that the M8 meter is consistent with the sekonic.
I'm not saying that you can put it on A and not pay attention to the scene. You have to use compensation when working in tricky lighting situations. I find I use manual a lot of the time. It is easier to adjust the compensation with manual than going into the menu and setting EV. I also practice just using sunny 16 (and the dynamic range of the M8 allows me a little leeway if I goof.😛 )
 
I find that outdoors my camera generally overexposes slightly ... I have it constantly set to -1 EV most of the time now if I am using it in A mode! I find slightly underxposed files far easier do deal with than the other way. The AE locking function of the shutter is a bit tricky ... there's not much leeway between locking and firing and I have lots of pics of things I wasn't really photographing! 😛
 
mine's spot on. In general the M's seem to meter better than the R's...I think it is because the meters are simpler and more consistent. It is just a tight center-weighted meter. The R's try to get fancy with spot metering and matrix metering and it doesn't always work...perhaps it is just because I am more used to the M meters. The only other cameras I have used that meter as well are the Hasselblad 203FE and the Canon T90...both have a good, sensitive center weighted meter like the M's.
 
Meters fine for me. Interesting that others find that it tends to overexpose. I'm often fixing underexposed shots during the conversion process.

Two things do strike me though: First, the AE locking spot is very shallow and tricky. Second, the center weighted area is pretty narrow. That, I think, is an advantage in that you effectively spot meter and recompose.
 
I find my M8 sometimes underexposes 1/2 - 2/3 stop. The histogram in Capture one usually shows underexposure but this is easily corrected.
 
I am not trying to call anyone out or anything, but I am curious as to whether the over and under exposing symptoms people are experiencing are related more to the way they meter than to the meter itself. Or are you getting the consistent under or over exposure when using a gray card? It just seems to me that the user's habits and understanding of how the meter works is probably more of a factor in a good exposure than the accuracy of the meter. Some people might see 18% gray for something that is actually 25% gray or 10% gray...you never know. That said, if you are consistent and a minor over or under exposure compensation gives good exposure, there is certainly nothing wrong with that!
 
Hi
I think we are all saying that the meter is very consistent. Whether or not its slightly over or under will certainly depend on how one uses it, and indeed the type of lighting, subjects and range of colours. I certainly have no complaints. I notice you have had problems metering in bright sunlight with some of the R series cameras. Bright sunlight is pretty much a no go zone for me with any camera! Its usually not all that pretty even when its well metered! If I have to take pics in bright sunlight id use fill flash!
Best wishes.
 
My meter is correct with respect to exposure. I do like the real spot on the M7 better than the ellipse on the M8. The exposure hold has a better feel on the M7 than on the M8 too.
 
Thanks all for your opinions...

Thanks all for your opinions...

that's pretty reassuring - Richard, cheers, yes I was using fill flash quite a lot (i shoot a lot of weddings) but the problem was trying to find a suitable aperture/'1/250th or slower' shutter combination under different conditions when the metering was all over the shop - not easy. In the end I was guessing and luckily, with the exposure latitude of film, it usually worked out - still bloody annoying tho'.

thanks again.
 
My comments about consistent over-exposure were in intented with use of the "A" setting in mind. If I'm shooting in that mode, -2/3 EV compensation seems to do the trick, especially in a moderately to brightly lit scene.
Curiously, if I'm manually exposing, using a gray WhiBal card, the camera's reading seems to tend toward underexposure.
Neither of these patterns tends to be a problem, though, since I know what to expect and adjust accordingly.
 
evad1962 said:
that's pretty reassuring - Richard, cheers, yes I was using fill flash quite a lot (i shoot a lot of weddings) but the problem was trying to find a suitable aperture/'1/250th or slower' shutter combination under different conditions when the metering was all over the shop - not easy. In the end I was guessing and luckily, with the exposure latitude of film, it usually worked out - still bloody annoying tho'.

thanks again.
Click to expand...

Hi
I thought you might be referring to wedding work! Why do people not get married when the light is good?!
It is worth bearing in mind that at present there is not a perfect flash solution for the M8. For fill I think the SF24 still has a slight edge as it does not unballance the camera, but its a bit short on power for any thing more than fill. Ive been using it for portraits in A mode at 2 stops bellow the apperture priority exposure and it works quite nicely. The new 28 2.8 lens has bags of depth of field which is great for group shots and the good thing at least with the M8 is that you can push the apperture and accept pretty slow shutter speeds. It should all just about hang together in bright sun light at ISO 160, but if all else fails I have a neutral density 2 stops filter. The other problem in bright light occasionally is flare, and the Leica built in lens hoods are not always adequate in my opinion.
 
I have been a Leica R user for years, and have never had any metering problems what so ever, using the SL, R4SP, and R8. I have a M6TTL, and now the M8. The M8 meters a bit to the over exposure side compared to the rest, andis consistant in this.
 
My M8 meters well and consistently. I do carry a Sekonic and also use AE a lot. I certainly would not let metering concerns stop you from getting an M8.
 
Thanks all...

Thanks all...

I'm now the proud owner of a new M8, and so far the metering & everything else seems perfect. I've got 3 lenses - Zeiss ZM 35/2 which is sensational, CV Heliar 15/4.5 (great) & the CV 90/3.5 Apo Lanthar which is as sharp as a very sharp tack. Many of my buying decisions were heavily influenced by what I've read on this forum, so I appreciate everyone's opinions & contributions and I will blame you all if anything f***s up : )

cheers,
Evad
 
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