M8 vs M8.2

Gid

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I know about the key differences between the two, but I can't find any details about what the last couple of M8 firmware upgrades brought. Did it bring the discreet option to the M8? I'm looking at either an M8 or 8.2 - I had an M8 when they first came out (3 actually, first two failed), but found the shutter difficult to get used to, not just the noise. So, regarding the shutter what are the key differences and any other compelling reasons to get an 8.2 over an 8?

Thanks (searching wasn't very useful)
 
The M8 has "discrete Mode" where the shutter charges after releasing the button. The M8 does not have a dedicated ISO button. The M8 has the framelines optimized for closest focus, the 75mm lines and 90mm lines are closer to an 85mm and 105mm focal length, respectively. I use them with the 85 and 105, so works for me.
 
Both M8 and M8.2 have discreet mode and none has iso button. Essential differences are more accurate frame lines at medium distances for the M8.2 but slower shutter speeds (1/4000s instead of 1/8000s) for the latter. The shutter sound is slightly less noisy with the M8.2 as well. As regards cosmetics the M8.2 comes with a sapphire crystal display and a leatherette covering mimicking the traditional vulcanite of original Leicas.
 
I have both. I prefer the M8-2 and whilst the M8 does now have a discrete mode I do not use it on this setting. The M8 is noisier than the M8-2 when using discrete shutter mode and I am not sure that the M8 sounds quite as smooth as the M8-2 when using the discrete mode either, and as I rarely actually need it to be honest its not a big deal for me.

M8-2s are now dropping a bit in price but they still seem to have quite a premium over the M8 so one will cost more - I'd say that its probably worth it as the M8-2 feels more refined and may well have had many of the M8's teething troubles eradicated.
 
Forgot a difference if you're using 40mm lenses. The 35mm frame lines of the M8 are more accurate for the latters than those of the M8.2.
 
Thanks for the responses.

What I found with the M8 was that I couldn't hand hold much below 1/30th, whereas I could go much slower with the Epson RD1 and obviously my film Ms. I think the pressure required on the shutter button was causing me to move the whole camera and hence induce blur. The IQ was excellent though - I have a number of prints on the wall at home.
 
I have both R-D1 and M8.2 and cannot say than the latter causes more motion blur to be honest. Just a matter of habit IMHO. In A mode, first half press the shutter button to get AE lock then recompose, shoot and the body should not move any more than the Epson.
 
I have both R-D1 and M8.2 and cannot say than the latter causes more motion blur to be honest. Just a matter of habit IMHO. In A mode, first half press the shutter button to get AE lock then recompose, shoot and the body should not move any more than the Epson.

Yes, it could have been my technique.
 
I use a soft-shutter release on the M8, and use a half-case with it. No problem hand-holding at slower speeds, 1/4th or so. The half-case dampens noise.



For the above shot, I braced on a wooden rail of the pier. Long exposure 1+seconds, high ISO probably 2500 for this shot. Jupiter-3, wide-open at F1.5.
 
Forgot a difference if you're using 40mm lenses. The 35mm frame lines of the M8 are more accurate for the latters than those of the M8.2.

Or you could just say that the M8.2 has more accurate framelines for general use with normal RF focal lengths.
 
Thanks for the responses.

What I found with the M8 was that I couldn't hand hold much below 1/30th, whereas I could go much slower with the Epson RD1 and obviously my film Ms. I think the pressure required on the shutter button was causing me to move the whole camera and hence induce blur.

I agree with this completely... I can hand hold my fuji X100 at shutter speeds way lower than my M9 (or M8.2). Technique cannot explain that.
 
Or you could just say that the M8.2 has more accurate framelines for general use with normal RF focal lengths.
I wanted to be more specific about 40mm lenses as the problem is not much documented to my knowledge and has been my only bad surprise with the M8.2. For those planning to use 40mm lenses with 35mm frame lines, film Ms, M9, M8, R-D1 or (i presume) ZI and Bessas are better suited than the M8.2.
 
I agree with this completely... I can hand hold my fuji X100 at shutter speeds way lower than my M9 (or M8.2). Technique cannot explain that.
P&S are even better at that but comparing digital rangefinders with interchangeable lenses, i don't believe that there is more risk of motion blur with M8 or M8.2 than with M9 or R-D1.
 
P&S are even better at that but comparing digital rangefinders with interchangeable lenses, i don't believe that there is more risk of motion blur with M8 or M8.2 than with M9 or R-D1.

Definetely not with the Digital Leicas... but compared to a film M with cloth shutter, there is a difference for me.
 
Well I'll be able to confirm for myself in a couple of days - I've just bought an M8.2 :eek: It will be interesting to see how it compares to my X100, which I have yet to fully engage with in spite of all the positives.
 
What I found with the M8 was that I couldn't hand hold much below 1/30th, whereas I could go much slower with the Epson RD1 and obviously my film Ms.

Agreed. Hell, I can say this about a Canon Rebel Xti. I have a 1/2 second portrait from that camera which was clear (I can prove with exif). With the M8 I had a difficult time of anything below 1/30. My M2 doesn't have this problem, 1/4sec portraits come out.

With regards to a 40mm, the original M8 may have had the right size frameline for it, but it was off center. In the middle focus ranges I had to expect one side of the framelines to be cropped out, while the other side had too much room. Again the M2 doesn't have this problem. Part of it could be the delay in viewing because of film processing, but I am still of the opinion that it's better to have the right centering vs. the right size of frameline.
 
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