m9 vs m6

While I was able to set my Fujifilm cameras up for simplified use. I used the X-Pro 1 as I used my Zeiss Ikon M. I now use my X100T as I used my Canonet QL-17.

I suspect the M9 requires less (actually no) effort to use as you used your M6.

Personally I believe native use of one's M lenses is the most important factor when deciding between a Fujifilm and the M9. M lenses work well on the Fujifilm, but focusing on the M9 seems as though it would more natural.

The X-Pro 2 has a significantly higher signal-to-noise ratio and analog dynamic range.
 
M-E with Summarit-M 35 , battery and neck stripe is 831 gm.
M3 with Rigid 50 and film is 890 gm.
Both lenses with hoods and filters.

Hi,

I'm not saying you're wrong but it still feels heavier to me. OTOH, it could be that I worry more about the M9 and project that fear on to the camera's weight...

Regards, David
 
I own the Leica M6 and the Fuji X-Pro1. I also find the X-Pro1 menu systems and settings confusing. However, compared to the M6, all five of the digital cameras I have owned have had confusing menus and settings. That is just the nature of the beast.


Leica M6 & Fuji X-Pro1 by Narsuitus, on Flickr

I own an M6, M9, and X Pro2... When people complain about menus, to me set it to RAW and auto WB and shoot away us Aperture Priority and use the exposure compensation.. never worry about menus I treat it pretty much like my M6 just as simple.. Don't over complicate it, just shoot man!
 
I have both, the M6 is very similar to the M9 except that it is digital. The menus are very easy and simple to follow. I love my M9 and refused to move to the Ms that followed. Instead, I went back to the M3, M2, M5, and M6. Before Leica, I almost buy a FujiXpro-1, it has AF and looked like the Leicas. I read a review in Leica Rumors that said that the Xpro-2 is a copy (or try to copy) of the Leica M. Not sure.

Exactly. If you can afford M9 and are curious, try one. Cheaper digital cameras are a waste of time if you want something very similar to M6.

M8 is good if you are on a tighter budget.
 
raid I think you are missing his question. he mainly wants to know if the M9's menu is simple to use. Is the M9 digitally as simple to use as his film M6.

Wish I had an M9 or better yet for me an M6 to answer his question.😀

The M9 is simple to use.
 
Hi,

I'm not saying you're wrong but it still feels heavier to me. OTOH, it could be that I worry more about the M9 and project that fear on to the camera's weight...

Regards, David

Heavier in terms of the charge on the pocket?
I have this every time I'm thinking of taking m-e out for street, candid.
Why I need 3K usd camera if M4-2 will handle this better?
Thinking of adding second m-e or getting m8 for it...
 
I own an M6, M9, and X Pro2... When people complain about menus, to me set it to RAW and auto WB and shoot away us Aperture Priority and use the exposure compensation.. never worry about menus I treat it pretty much like my M6 just as simple.. Don't over complicate it, just shoot man!

Being you already invested in the Xpro2 I would replicate simplicity as much as you can. By setting up auto WB, 3 ISO options, pre selecting B&W with raw and choice of metering and working either in A or S mode, you rarely would need to go in to the menus just like your M6 and keep it simple as mentioned above. Force your self to use the XP2 with one lens and forget your M6 for awhile and you will be OK......
 
I own the Leica M6 and the Fuji X-Pro1. I also find the X-Pro1 menu systems and settings confusing. However, compared to the M6, all five of the digital cameras I have owned have had confusing menus and settings. That is just the nature of the beast.

Would you say the X-Pro1 is similar to the X10/X20/X100 menus, or very different from them? I have these, and find them reasonably easy to use. Two of my cameras that have menus that challenge me at times are my D700 camera and Leica D-Lux 6. The latter can leave me dumbfounded at times!
 
The Fujis and the digital Ms are SUPERFICIALLY similar in that the SS and aperture can be set by use of dedicated dials.

The Fuji gets more complicated by needing to access the menu (or a function button) for things like metering and continuous shooting and the self timer

Both cameras will need you looking at a screen to select ISO (this can actually be done in the OVF on the fuji, but same difference and I digress)

For my OPINION the M9 is more simple than the X-Pro1 but the fuji is not so complicated that a little time playing with it won't enable one to familiarise themselves with it (the x-pro2 is a different story having many more features)


One area a film shooter will find themselves in a whole new world (no matter which camera) is the act of transferring to and editing of digital negatives on their computer

This is a area that has many opinions and thousands of words written about the best workflow, image editor etc etc

Although 'straight out of the camera jpegs' aren't the abomination and insult to the craft of photography that some would have you believe, the fact remains that shooting raw (which is dng on Leica and proprietary raf on the fujis) offers one more ability to correct, polish and modify the end result. This has several advantages over camera derived jpegs, more lattitude in exposure recovery, white balance modification and prep for print to name three

To go digital, be it raw or camera derived jpeg, there's no real meaningful* way around the fact that you'll need to be comfortable with transferring the images from the SD card to the computer.

To edit raw, it's necessary to have a raw convertor software, there are many different brands offering this type of software, the majority enabling you to try before you buy with a free trial period

There's many reasons to recommend a X-Pro1 over a m9 / there's many reasons to recommend a m9 over a x-pro1

For what it's worth... if the funds permit.. such decisions are often best taken with the heart 🙂

However, if one is entirely uncomfortable with the notion of transferring, editing, storing and printing digital images then (in my opinion) no digital camera will give one the satisfaction of working with film (with the proviso of course that one is comfortable doing this with film)

*one could of course pop the SD card into one of those instant print self service machines you find in malls, but personally I don't consider this to be a meaningful solution. Others mileage may vary...
 
Film - expensive; you pay someone else to process/interpret your negatives, unless, of course, if you develop & scan on your own
Digital - cheap; but you got to do everything yourself, unless you pay and develop your own processing presets

If you already have a Fuji, I say you stick with it. That way you get the pure Leica film experience and the robust Fuji digital experience. Best of both worlds.
 
These are my two cameras: M6 and M9. They are so good I have no desire to buy anything else. The M9 is just like a film M. Not good in high ISO and I don't see the pictures after I've taken them, yes the rear LCD is that bad - I use it only for settings anyway so no biggie. The only film M closer to the M9 i feel might be the M7 because of the A mode and the shuter speed dial that turns the same way of the M9. But since I have no interest in the M7 because all of its eletronics, M6 is the closest it gets to me to have no problems in handling - wether shooting film or digital. Go for it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi,

Can't comment on the Fuji but I've noticed that - in the long term - I've sold all my complicated cameras, as the system's menus* get in the way, and kept the straight forward ones. Even to the point where I still have and use an elderly Leica Digilux 2, which is 5 megapixels and ought to be scrapped according to some...

So my votes for the M series.

Regards, David

* Why do they shove so much into the menus? Lots of film cameras survived and became classics with just the simplest of controls (Olympus XA or Konica A4 or Leica mini) or hardly any (Olympus mju's). A simple P&S digital with a decent prime lens would be great and please don't tell me there's one as I can't afford it.
 
The reason I shoot an M9 privately is mainly its simplicity. The menus are clear and there is a sensible amount of buttons.

I had a Sony A7S for a while, but every time I used it and had to adjust anything I felt a strong urge to smash the thing to bits...
 
and where is logtown?
i live in SF.

Logtown is a very small community just south of Placerville on Hwy 49.

Lately I've been using my XP1 for general photography. I have an 18-55 lens on it and I have it in Aperture Priority mode with the ISO set on Auto. I keep the WB on daylight as it gets fooled a lot on Auto. I also like the odd light that you get using the daylight setting at night. I have the AF on spot as well as the metering. There's a way to change the size of the AF area and I have it on the smallest, I focus and meter on what I want to capture and then recompose while holding down the half shutter position. There is a setting that lets you use the AF lock button for that but I've done it my way for so long that I don't seem to be able to adjust. I shoot in RAW/jpeg fine and set the color at B&W to see the image in BW but have the option for color with the RAW file. This takes up a lot more space on your card but I'm not a machine gunner so it's not been a problem. Hope this is some help. Steve
 
Would you say the X-Pro1 is similar to the X10/X20/X100 menus, or very different from them?

I have never used the Fuji X10/X20/X100 so cannot comment on them. I have, however, used the menus on the Fuji S5, Canon G5/G11/G15, Olympus E-p1/E-p3, Hewlett Packard Photosmart M425, and the Vivitar Vivicam 3615.

My biggest problem with all of them is that I must put my glasses on to see the tiny menu. On the other hand, if I had to, I could use my Leica M6 with my eyes closed.
 
... never worry about menus I treat it pretty much like my M6 just as simple...

Believe me, I try to ignore the menus. However, some digital cameras force me to go deep into the menu to perform simple tasks such as:

· using the self timer
· performing bracketing
· telling the camera which lens I have mounted
 
Back
Top Bottom