Roger Hicks
Veteran
Seconded without hesitation. For the first, a great deal will depend on your imagination and resourcefulness: the really touristy bits are indeed a disaster area. For the second (Gozo) -- GET LOST! I mean this in the friendliest possible matter: you never know what you'll find on the back roads.Malta's a country you'll either fall in love with, or you'll find nothing to make you return again. The touristy bits are very touristy. San Julien is one such place. Don't overlook trips to Gozo though.
Cheers,
R.