katgut@earthlink.net
Established
Hi,
I'm considering using a Mamiya 6 for weddings. I have a complete system which was inherited, so my equipment cost is $0. However, I would probably buy a backup body and shoot with a 75 on one and my 50 on another. I know the relative merits of such a system and film costs, but my question for anyone who has used them (or a 7) this way is:
Is changing film the deal breaker here? I have to sit down and do it, unlike 35mm where I can change quickly with one hand. Have you found that running out of film is a real handicap? It's very frustrating that the films that really should be 220 are no longer available, especially with B&W.
thanks
I'm considering using a Mamiya 6 for weddings. I have a complete system which was inherited, so my equipment cost is $0. However, I would probably buy a backup body and shoot with a 75 on one and my 50 on another. I know the relative merits of such a system and film costs, but my question for anyone who has used them (or a 7) this way is:
Is changing film the deal breaker here? I have to sit down and do it, unlike 35mm where I can change quickly with one hand. Have you found that running out of film is a real handicap? It's very frustrating that the films that really should be 220 are no longer available, especially with B&W.
thanks
FrankS
Registered User
I've used the Mamiya 6 for weddings. I used a Nikon F4 for 35mm colur neg film, and the Mamiya 6 for B+W. (Both cameras were backed up, another Nikon and another MF camera.) This worked great for me.
john_s
Well-known
Changing film is the limiting factor. Can you have an assistant who can do it? Otherwise, careful planning and a couple of cameras. Having only 12 shots does add to the stress levels, but you do get quicker at it.
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
the procession will require several changes itself, adding to stress. A wedding coverage of a mere 300 fotos would require 25 roll changes under fire.
If you took backup shots of critical moments you would burn film really fast. In the 20th century weddings were shot MF as routine. Today there are easier ways to accomplish the task.
If you took backup shots of critical moments you would burn film really fast. In the 20th century weddings were shot MF as routine. Today there are easier ways to accomplish the task.
sar-photo
Simon Robinson
You can still get Tri-X in 220 - that would halve your film changes!
nksyoon
Well-known
There have always been anecdotes about the weakness of the winding mechanism but if you refrain from cranking the film too fast there shouldn't be a problem.
waileong
Well-known
The idea is to use the m6 for shots you want to print large, and a 35mm slr (or even dslr) for the obligatory 4x6's. Use 220 color filn or 3x. Know the routine, plan in advance.
Notwithstanding that, the time to wind and change film is really too much. That's why mf slrs with interchangeable backs are better for events.
Notwithstanding that, the time to wind and change film is really too much. That's why mf slrs with interchangeable backs are better for events.
MT4
Member
An Assistent - to be trusted - for film & lenses changes - especilly in the M - would be of great help.
Mamiya M6 or M7ii combined with Nikon F6, both inserted on their correlative stroboframe - just in case - may provide an outstanding wedding setup.
Nikon SB 28 is providing an excellent light in both cameras.
This "modern" not very frequent film set can provide an excellent results with highly satisfied clients.
A backup DSLR Y/N at your discretion.
Michael
Mamiya M6 or M7ii combined with Nikon F6, both inserted on their correlative stroboframe - just in case - may provide an outstanding wedding setup.
Nikon SB 28 is providing an excellent light in both cameras.
This "modern" not very frequent film set can provide an excellent results with highly satisfied clients.
A backup DSLR Y/N at your discretion.
Michael
Merkin
For the Weekend
One thing to consider is whether or not you can get all of the shots you will need, or people will want, with a lens that only goes to f4. Another important consideration is how much practice you have with the camera. Are you comfortable enough with it that you could quickly make all of the adjustments with your eyes closed?
katgut@earthlink.net
Established
Thanks for the answers all. Actually, I have a DSLR, and I feel I'd be faster with the M6. I still think manual aperture adjustment on the lens is much faster (for me) than digital adjustment.
two more questions:
1. Has anyone used the 150 lens for weddings?
2. What would be your preferred film for the M6: 160 or 400. And for color negative film, especially if there is any scanning, do you shoot at box speed, or do you over-expose a bit?
two more questions:
1. Has anyone used the 150 lens for weddings?
2. What would be your preferred film for the M6: 160 or 400. And for color negative film, especially if there is any scanning, do you shoot at box speed, or do you over-expose a bit?
waileong
Well-known
I suggest you shoot 800 film. Shoot mainly at 400 (ie +1 stop) and go to 800 in a pinch. Push the film if you have to.
The problem is not your handholding ability, but the movement of the subjects. You'll need to shoot f8 or f11 to get the depth of field, but you don't want to keep telling them to hold still. A rangefinder like the Mamiya should not interrupt the flow of events.
I've not used the 150 lens much, only at the zoo. It's a great lens, but takes a long time to focus.
You'll have to plan your lens changes carefully, because it takes so much time to activate the light shield and make sure you don't drop a lens while changing. For this reason I'd use the 80 and zoom with my feet when possible, and the 50 mm when in the midst of things.
The problem is not your handholding ability, but the movement of the subjects. You'll need to shoot f8 or f11 to get the depth of field, but you don't want to keep telling them to hold still. A rangefinder like the Mamiya should not interrupt the flow of events.
I've not used the 150 lens much, only at the zoo. It's a great lens, but takes a long time to focus.
You'll have to plan your lens changes carefully, because it takes so much time to activate the light shield and make sure you don't drop a lens while changing. For this reason I'd use the 80 and zoom with my feet when possible, and the 50 mm when in the midst of things.
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andreas
i am not digital.
Two M6 with 75 and 50 is a very nice and fast combo for such a task. Especially if you can find a film to your liking in 220.
Of course you won`t get as many shots as with 35mm, but maybe you don`t have to.
And for the usual society/party stuff you can always backup with a fast lens on a fast 35mm.
The 150mm is nice, but could be to much to handle in these fast changing circumstances. And i would use 400 or even 800 speed film as mentioned above.
Wish you good luck!
Of course you won`t get as many shots as with 35mm, but maybe you don`t have to.
And for the usual society/party stuff you can always backup with a fast lens on a fast 35mm.
The 150mm is nice, but could be to much to handle in these fast changing circumstances. And i would use 400 or even 800 speed film as mentioned above.
Wish you good luck!