Mamiya 6 Shutter & Film Advance Lockup

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Funsocks

Restless In The Midwest
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Joined
Apr 17, 2012
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My Mamiya 6 works perfectly for the most part, but has a serious issue that I need to have serviced. On fast shutter speeds 1/30th and above, the camera functions normally, however at slow speeds such as 2 seconds, 4 seconds, and bulb, the camera intermittently locks up. When this happens I cannot advance the film or fire the shutter. However if I take the camera to a darkroom/changing bag and open up the back and reload the film, the camera resumes normal functionality. When I say the issue is intermittent I mean that sometimes I can use slow speeds successfully, but other times the camera locks up and cannot be used until I open the back/remove the film. The issue is becoming more consistent however, which is why I want to get the camera serviced.

There's nothing more frustrating than climbing a mountainous area for hours to make one exposure and have the camera completely lock up when I try to fire it on bulb.

I haven't found any other documentation of this issue online, so any help would be awesome! (Especially if there is a way to fix the issue myself ;)

I sent an email to precision camera works today as well, so hopefully they can shed more light on the issue.
 
I think you need a new battery. Especially when cold (on a mountainside), weak batteries play up. It's shutter is controlled electronically, not mechanically as most vintage cameras are.
 
having owned two of these cameras for many years, my first thought was the same as those posted above; try a new battery.
 
There is a lockup situation where interlocks don't release. There is a magnet switch, I'm told, and a way to check it is to release the retractable lens mount which somehow encourages the thing to release. You hear an audible click.

But, in this case I can't imagine how it would be a function of shutter setting, leading me to agree with the others that the battery might be weak. A long shutter speed would strain a weak battery more, one would think.
 
After fooling around with the camera with a roll of test paper in it I've discovered that I can duplicate the lockup scenario by turning off the camera mid exposure. Obviously this isn't what I'm doing to cause the lockup, but it brings the same results. In actual use I never turn the camera off mid exposure however it locks up and I am unable to fire it or advance the film regardless. Not sure if this discovery helps but I'm posting it anyway. Thanks for your help so far guys! :)
 
I think you may have tried this already, but if not, try pressing the lockup/reset button thing that's beneath the cable release socket with a pen. If it works, it can easily be done in the field, too. There is some more info in the manual.
If that doesn't work, I'd recommend taking it to be looked at, alas.
 
quejai said:
I think you may have tried this already, but if not, try pressing the lockup/reset button thing that's beneath the cable release socket with a pen. If it works, it can easily be done in the field, too. There is some more info in the manual.
If that doesn't work, I'd recommend taking it to be looked at, alas.
Click to expand...

This actually worked! I was able to advance the film, at the cost of one exposure, and continue shooting normally. However I still feel as though my camera shouldn't be having this lockup issue in the field. I suppose having some blank exposures is better than an expensive repair? ... I wish there was an easier solution to this :/
 
quejai said:
I think you need a new battery. Especially when cold (on a mountainside), weak batteries play up. It's shutter is controlled electronically, not mechanically as most vintage cameras are.
Click to expand...

Hmm I didn't think about the cold. I've been photographing in rather cold conditions. Around 25 degrees Fahrenheit or so.
 
Funsocks said:
Hmm I didn't think about the cold. I've been photographing in rather cold conditions. Around 25 degrees Fahrenheit or so.
Click to expand...

Best to check the battery voltage (evan when new) with a DMM if you have or can borrow one. should read about 6,5 volt without load.

In my experience Most 6 volt dependent cameras i'v repaired will not operate below about 5,8 volt.

Noel
 
Have you tried releasing the lens mount, that is, the button you press to retract the lens mount? Allow the lens mount to retract a few mm. I found that it enables my problematic body to release the interlock.
 
Funsocks said:
Hmm I didn't think about the cold. I've been photographing in rather cold conditions. Around 25 degrees Fahrenheit or so.
Click to expand...


Recently I had similar problems with my Mamiya 6 in the cold 15-20 degrees F. Setting exposures manually seemed to help. Twice I had to take the lens off to recock the shutter... tricky in cold weather.
 
gshybrid said:
Recently I had similar problems with my Mamiya 6 in the cold 15-20 degrees F. Setting exposures manually seemed to help. Twice I had to take the lens off to recock the shutter... tricky in cold weather.
Click to expand...

So you're saying there's a way to recock the shutter by hand? How would one go about this?
 
Thanks for posting this, I have experienced the same but much warmer, 35-40F. I guess this is one of the reasons I built a full Hassy system before considering this camera, battery dependent cameras are not high on my list when it comes to ski-mountaineering work.

It's ashame to waste batteries like that when only 20% in they drop below the needed voltage in cold weather. I love the size and function of the 6 but for my pro cold weather work it kind of blows if this is the norm.
 
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