mamiya 7 to 5d II (long post)

Another thing to consider - when you shoot digital, don't use the white balance to make everything neutral. With film, you chose a daylight balanced emulsion and you accept the color casts and changes that invariably come when you have mixed light, or cool or warm light. Do the same thing with digital. You should shoot RAW, but choose daylight WB and see if that makes your pictures look less 'sterile.' That, to me, was one of the beauties of the work of guys like David Allan Harvey, when he was shooting film. The 'off' color temps.... With digital, people tend to clean that away. Unfortunately. If you shoot fashion in the studio, you'll probably want/need to keep it neutral, but outdoors?

That's good advice. I would actually go a step further and create a custom white balance profile for daylight by taking a reference shot of a grey card at noon on a sunny day. Much more accurate than the standard daylight profile.
I'd like to pretend I came up with this trick but I actually read it in a Capture One newsletter a while back. Works like a charm.
 
By that same mentality, what's the point of buying anything that isn't necessary? If you have the option of a superior AF, there is no point in not taking it.. regardless of if you need it or not.

Making a camera choice is always a tradeoff decision. Wanting a better AF compared to the 5D II comes with a bulkier camera and a higher price tag. If you have the money and don't care about a bigger camera, then there is no need to think about it. If you don't want to spend that extra money then it's your decision if the AF of the 5D is good enough.
 
I've used and owned the Mamiya 7, the Nikon D700, and now I have a 5D2. If you aren't giving up the Mamiya you can always shoot rangefinders. People on this forum give a lot of stock into cameras they can use or can't use for whatever reason, I think that way some times too. In this case though I gotta say if you're looking for a high res camera with a full frame sensor that is 2nd best in its class in low light, the 5D2 is your machine plain and simple.

Just adapt to the SLR and make it work for you.

1. You don't have to buy some giant slow zoom. I use the Voigtlander 40mm f2 ultron on mine and its a joy. It is my only lens and I am constantly impressed with it's performance. It is also tiny, and reminds me that the 5D2 is actually a small camera. Also the 40 will be approximately the same as an 80mm on your mamiya.

2. If you never auto focused with the Mamiya why do you have to now? Don't worry about the auto focus, its not for sports but it is acceptable for general photography.

3. The files printed at 300dpi rival medium format (color). For me the camera has replaced medium format color photography. This is for better or for worse, but thats how it has ended up. I get remarkably detailed files that print right to 13x19 with no up rezing.

4. Its not the only camera you have to use, its just one in your toolbox. And in my opinion the only other option out there is $7K.

Go for it, or the D700. Everybody needs a DSLR who is practicing professional photography.

There are a number of 5D shots on my main gallery on my site, all shot with the Voigtlander 40mm. Check it out.
 
Making a camera choice is always a tradeoff decision. Wanting a better AF compared to the 5D II comes with a bulkier camera and a higher price tag. If you have the money and don't care about a bigger camera, then there is no need to think about it. If you don't want to spend that extra money then it's your decision if the AF of the 5D is good enough.

The D3 may be bigger and more expensive, but the D700 is about the same size and price of the 5DII.

Anyway, I've taken this thread too far off-topic. My mistake! Like I said before, the 5D is a nice camera.🙂
 
For those who think the 5D II is "close enough" to the quality of the 7... Do the side-by-side. Print the 5D to 20x24, and print a similar negative from the 7 optically to that size.

However, if you're not printing that size or larger, it really doesn't matter what you shoot. Any consumer DSLR can make a perfectly good 16x20.
 
A couple years ago I was shooting a lot with a Leica M6 and a Mamiya 7. I sold the Mamiya and replaced it with a Canon 5D II. Totally happy with the swap. The Leica still gets as much use but with the 5D I'm taking hundreds of shots over the course of a day where I would have taken 10-20 with the Mamiya. Would be awesome if the 5D could equal the Mamiya's IQ, but for me IQ is secondary to getting the shot in the first place.

Obviously all depends on your shooting style and preferences, but I have no problem having a film RF and a DSLR in the same bag...
 
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GAS = an incredibly unfamiliar (not sarcasm) feeling that I now feel the pangs of for a 5dII and primes?

One thing to keep in mind if you buy a 5DII is that it's somewhat likely that a 5DIII will be released sometime next spring (maybe around March?).
I'm not saying you should wait. If you need it now you need it now. And it's certainly a lot cheaper now than it used to be. Just something to be aware of so there are no unexpected surprises.
 
Just wait till you try a zeiss ze prime on that 5dII 😀

When I had my 5DII, I was just about to buy the 50L, but decided not to since I decided to switch back to Nikon (currently using the 50/1.4G, btw), but most people seem to agree that the Zeiss 50/2 is the best 50mm lens for the DSLR system (if you don't mind MF).

I have a friend who recently bought a Lux-R and is using that for his DSLR and the the lens seems to produce some awesome pictures. The Lux-R is pretty cheap, too (my friend got his for $250, IIRC).... wonder why you never really hear about people using it. It seems like a good competitor for the Zeiss 50/2
 
When I had my 5DII, I was just about to buy the 50L, but decided not to since I decided to switch back to Nikon (currently using the 50/1.4G, btw), but most people seem to agree that the Zeiss 50/2 is the best 50mm lens for the DSLR system (if you don't mind MF).

I have a friend who recently bought a Lux-R and is using that for his DSLR and the the lens seems to produce some awesome pictures. The Lux-R is pretty cheap, too (my friend got his for $250, IIRC).... wonder why you never really hear about people using it. It seems like a good competitor for the Zeiss 50/2

Actually crazily enough I used to have a 50L and would say it's the best 50mm lens I've ever used. I haven't used the makro planar 50mm but it looks excellent - though it's no 1.2. The 100mm makro-planar is probably the best lens ever made for an SLR system...
 
I was honest when I said I don't get GAS often. Can't afford it and pretty confident in the equipment I already have. It has taken me a year + to even want a 5d II! Like someone else said, it will still be the same camera in a few years as it is now. That being said it is fun to speculate about what could be in a mark III. OR what sort of video features MF back manufactures are sure to implement sooner or later.
 
Actually crazily enough I used to have a 50L and would say it's the best 50mm lens I've ever used. I haven't used the makro planar 50mm but it looks excellent - though it's no 1.2. The 100mm makro-planar is probably the best lens ever made for an SLR system...

I know that the 50L has a lot of problems with back-focus, but everybody says that the new models (UY and newer) no longer have that problem.
 
I know that the 50L has a lot of problems with back-focus, but everybody says that the new models (UY and newer) no longer have that problem.

It's supposed to be design thing - meaning it's there on every copy. Personally (and from experience) I didn't see it once in real life - it always focussed well within my tolerances at every aperture and even in low light - f1.2, 1/30th @ 3200iso... Was really sharp at f1.2 and had really lovely rendering. I only sold it because of a monetary emergency. I now have the sigma 50mm f1.4 which is also wonderful, but thats another story 😛
 
Randall, I like your work - I think having a portfolio of decent quality directly correlates with not caring that much about gear. The gearheads always have really little to show.. Took me way too long to learn that.
 
It's supposed to be design thing - meaning it's there on every copy. Personally (and from experience) I didn't see it once in real life - it always focussed well within my tolerances at every aperture and even in low light - f1.2, 1/30th @ 3200iso... Was really sharp at f1.2 and had really lovely rendering. I only sold it because of a monetary emergency. I now have the sigma 50mm f1.4 which is also wonderful, but thats another story 😛

Well, that is the part that confuses me. The reason why the lens back-focuses is because it doesn't have a floating element. The design of the newer lenses is exactly the same, but for some reason, people do not complain about the back-focusing so there must be some sort of validity there.

I'm not sure how Canon was able to resolve that problem without changing the design. I know for a fact that the new models do not have the floating element, but maybe Canon made some small adjustments that resolved the issue... who knows.
 
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