Mamiya 7II and 3200 ISO film?

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Ligament

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Hello all,

My first post on this forum.

I have a Mamiya 7II. I also have some Ilford 3200 film I'd like to try out. As the ISO selector on the 7II only goes up to 1600, how do you recommend I best use this film in this camera? Many thanks!
 
Yeah, you would do well to rate that stuff at 1600. The 3200 speed films are tricky but with practice you can make them work. Or just set the ISO to 1600 and then use the exposure compensation from there. I'd recommend just shooting at 1600 though.
 
sper said:
Yeah, you would do well to rate that stuff at 1600. The 3200 speed films are tricky but with practice you can make them work. Or just set the ISO to 1600 and then use the exposure compensation from there. I'd recommend just shooting at 1600 though.
Click to expand...

may I ask if one develops this at 1600 also?

thx
 
Exactly. Rate it at 1000-1200 to begin with and go from there as this is the films real speed in Xtol or DDX.

If you want to rate it at 3200, set the ISO at 1600 and the exposure comp at -1 stop.

I find this film only works well at 3200 and above in very low contrast situations like indoors (where there is no real directional light) because 3200 noticeably underexposes the film and the pushing hikes the contrast. Indoors, or in alley ways, or simly lit streets, f you ignore the point light sources, the contrast range of the main subject matter is often exceptionally low (a few stops at most) and so rating at 3200 or even 6400 can work as this expands the tonal range and results in nice images.... but if you have healthy contrast in a scene, just low light, shoot this film at its real speed otherwise you'll get nasty black empty shadows and blown highlights.

Either Xtol 1+something or DDX will give you the best you can get.
 
I'm not a fan of using film outside of it's boxed speed, but I usually shoot slides, which are less forgiving. I'd opt to rate it at ISO 1600 and the exposure compenstaion at -1 ev.

But based upon what everyone says here, it sounds like you'd be better off not trying to shoot as if it were 3200 film.
 
There is certainly a fair amount of grain at 1600. I think it would be too distracting at 3200.

Delta 3200, exposed at ISO 1600, I think developed in HC-110, dilution B. Taken with a Rolleiflex. I'll have to check my notes.:

4715423231_c12ff86e15.jpg
 
I agree with Turtle and Andre on 1600 being the best all around setting for TMZ... It's a slight push, good for improving contrast (the usual thing on overcast or interiors low flat light) and with almost no shadow loss... By 3200 the film is perfectly fine too for most situations even for detailed shadows, but if the scene is contrasty (theater, bars, concerts with direct light beams) 3200 can mean black shadows and high contrast: sometimes it's the right look, but sometimes it is not...

I'd use 3200 with your Mamiya 7 (cool!) most of the times, and 1600 (with a few minutes shorter development) for direct light, contrasty scenes.

I've used it at 800 for direct sun too, at around f/11 1/2000 with yellow filter and even shorter development for controlled contrast.

Cheers,

Juan
 
TareqPhoto said:
So how can i shoot at 1600 and compensate at -1? and then how can i develop it with D-76 or XTOL?
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With the ISO set at 1600, use the compensation scale below the shutter speed dial, to the right: to unlock it and set it o -1 use the small lock release button that's aiming the same direction than the lens, just above camera's printed model...

BUT! Metering in low light or night can give you horrible exposure if done in AutoExposure because it's very common to compose with too bright zones inside the frame... At least to calibrate your film's different ISOs development, and for serious unrepeatable shooting, incident metering is a lot better way to meter: in AE any lamp or bulb or light beam or even a white wall in light can produce underexposure... With other films and normal development for more normal contrast and more available light it's less problematic, but with fast film pushed, It's easy to get gross underexposure because the tonal range showed on film is a shorter portion of reality...

Cheers,

Juan
 
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Juan Valdenebro said:
With the ISO set at 1600, use the compensation scale below the shutter speed dial, to the right: to unlock it and set it o -1 use the small lock release button that's aiming the same direction than the lens, just above camera's printed model...

BUT! Metering in low light or night can give you horrible exposure if done in AutoExposure because it's very common to compose with too bright zones inside the frame... At least to calibrate your film's different ISOs development, and for serious unrepeatable shooting, incident metering is a lot better way to meter: in AE any lamp or bulb or light beam or even a white wall in light can produce underexposure... With other films and normal development for more normal contrast and more available light it's less problematic, but with fast film pushed, It's easy to get gross underexposure because the tonal range showed on film is a shorter portion of reality...

Cheers,

Juan
Click to expand...

If i use Mamiya 7II then ok, but how can i compensate with Hasselblad 501CM or Mamiya RZ67II or holga 120N? even GSW690III doesn't have that exposure compensation! or does it?!!!
 
When Delta 3200 first came out, I tried it in my Mamiya 6, exposed for 3200 and developed it in T-Max RS at Kodaks rec. time/temp. The result was great, almost no grain. Ilfords rep in Norway even used one of the images for PR. Can't understand all the complains about the gritty look of this film, maybe they changed it... I'll look if I can find the picture and post it here.

Regards,
Dannny
 
TareqPhoto said:
If i use Mamiya 7II then ok, but how can i compensate with Hasselblad 501CM or Mamiya RZ67II or holga 120N? even GSW690III doesn't have that exposure compensation! or does it?!!!
Click to expand...

Simple just adjust your exposure by -1 stop by either using a higher shutter speed or a small aperture.
Example if the meter gives ISO 1600 F-8 1/250th for ISO 3200 you'd use either F-8 1/500th or F-11 1/250th.
 
TareqPhoto said:
This is what i do, but then, i develop it as it is 1600 or as it is 3200?
Click to expand...

There isn't "a development time" for 1600 or another one for 3200: it depends on the contrast you want on your negatives, and that depends also on the real scene's contrast. Every photographer must find the best times for his/her gear and ways of metering and developing... Recommended times are given to start testing...

When you shoot a film at 3200, you give it less light than when you shoot it at 1600, so at 3200 you should develop it (as it received less light) for more minutes than you do at 1600...

Cheers,

Juan
 
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dannyt said:
When Delta 3200 first came out, I tried it in my Mamiya 6, exposed for 3200 and developed it in T-Max RS at Kodaks rec. time/temp. The result was great, almost no grain. Ilfords rep in Norway even used one of the images for PR. Can't understand all the complains about the gritty look of this film, maybe they changed it... I'll look if I can find the picture and post it here.

Regards,
Dannny
Click to expand...

Indeed TMZ is beautiful at 3200.

Cheers,

Juan
 
Ligament said:
Hello all,

My first post on this forum.

I have a Mamiya 7II. I also have some Ilford 3200 film I'd like to try out. As the ISO selector on the 7II only goes up to 1600, how do you recommend I best use this film in this camera? Many thanks!
Click to expand...
Use a hand-held meter, or you could set the exposure compensation -1 and at 1600, but that would probably be out of effective metering range of the Mamiya 7II. I'd shoot it at 1600 and have it developed for 3200.
 
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