Brince
Member
I have a chance to get an 7ll with pano adapter. My main interest would be panoramics. I'm looking for input on this setup. Thanks Brince
venchka
Veteran
I don't see the point of the adapter. With the exception of Kodachrome, any film you would want to use is available in 120. Use the whole 6x7 negative to crop a pano. anywhere you like.
brian304
Newbie
I use the Mam and 65mm lens with pano adapter. If you have a medium format scanner (a real one at least a Nikon) then I would agree that you should just use the whole neg. I use a Canon 1Ds MarkII for larger prints but found I would rather use the Mam for panos. If you are shooting a quickly changing scene stitching dig panos is kind of a pain.
Brian
Brian
kuzano
Veteran
Yeah, but????
Yeah, but????
Why throw away all that good film. Uselessly shooting an image to only use a small area for output bothers me. I am using a Fuji 6X9 and a pano head to achieve actual 6X17, and am going to try 6X24.
It's not such a big deal to require a Pano head for landscape, but when the subject gets close or there is a lot of close focusing in the landscape, the purpose of the pano head is to move the rotation point of the camera below the nodal point (exit pupil) of the lens. A quick way to come very close to the nodal point is to locate the aperture blades in the lens and get the rotation point lined up with that point. It's also advisable to use the normal focal length for the film format, rather than try to use a wide angle, which will distort the stitching point.
My Fuji 6X9 has a nodal point that is 6 cm in front of the tripod socket. I do not plan on shooting portrait mode, so it was easy to make a bracket to relocate the tripod socket forward, and then use the camera on my leveled ball head.
My point here is that while setup is time consuming, the output of 6X17 centimeters of actual film is awfully nice compared to just stripping the center inch out of a 7cm length of 120.
But I do believe in the absolute correctness of the old quote, "different strokes for different folks."
Yeah, but????
venchka said:
Why throw away all that good film. Uselessly shooting an image to only use a small area for output bothers me. I am using a Fuji 6X9 and a pano head to achieve actual 6X17, and am going to try 6X24.
It's not such a big deal to require a Pano head for landscape, but when the subject gets close or there is a lot of close focusing in the landscape, the purpose of the pano head is to move the rotation point of the camera below the nodal point (exit pupil) of the lens. A quick way to come very close to the nodal point is to locate the aperture blades in the lens and get the rotation point lined up with that point. It's also advisable to use the normal focal length for the film format, rather than try to use a wide angle, which will distort the stitching point.
My Fuji 6X9 has a nodal point that is 6 cm in front of the tripod socket. I do not plan on shooting portrait mode, so it was easy to make a bracket to relocate the tripod socket forward, and then use the camera on my leveled ball head.
My point here is that while setup is time consuming, the output of 6X17 centimeters of actual film is awfully nice compared to just stripping the center inch out of a 7cm length of 120.
But I do believe in the absolute correctness of the old quote, "different strokes for different folks."
sevres_babylone
Veteran
If your main interest is panoramic, then I would look for an xpan. If your main interest is panoramic, but you definitely also want 6x7 capability, then the panoramic adapter will suffice. I have a Mamiya 7 and do use the adapter from time to time. I find loading and unloading a bit awkward, but then I am pretty klutzy.
Maybe. But where I live there is a substantial cost variation in both film and processing. $3 developing vs. $7. There are more deals available on 35mm film.
venchka
Veteran
I suppose everyone is right.
Like horsepower, there is no substitute for acrerage on a negative.
Like horsepower, there is no substitute for acrerage on a negative.
KNPhoto
KN Photo
Hello Brince:
One major issue with shooting 6x7 and cropping for the panoramic on the Mamiya 7/7II is that you "still get ten shots per 120 roll". Shooting 220 is a good option, but that's becoming hard to find. When you load 35mm for panoramic, you'll get 18 frames and less waste of film. Unfortunately, you have to use more of the 35mm film leader when loading into the M7/7II than in a 35mm camera.
As others have mentioned, the loading and unloading is slow.
One major issue with shooting 6x7 and cropping for the panoramic on the Mamiya 7/7II is that you "still get ten shots per 120 roll". Shooting 220 is a good option, but that's becoming hard to find. When you load 35mm for panoramic, you'll get 18 frames and less waste of film. Unfortunately, you have to use more of the 35mm film leader when loading into the M7/7II than in a 35mm camera.
As others have mentioned, the loading and unloading is slow.
RObert Budding
D'oh!
The real problem with the pano adapter is that you must commit to shooting an entire roll that way. I often only want a few pano shots on a roll, so I just crop down the 120 neg. YMMV.