cassel
Well-known
I only see the one camera: 752415 "Big Window" with two backs and hood.
Can you point us in the direction of the second one? Thanks!
Mamiya Magazine 35
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I only see the one camera: 752415 "Big Window" with two backs and hood.
Can you point us in the direction of the second one? Thanks!
cassel
Well-known
Here's a quickly thrown together list:
Other Cameras with the Seikosha MXL shutter:
• Topcon 35-L
• Aires IIIC, Aires IIIL
• Ricoh 35 deluxe, Ricoh 500, Ricoh Five-One-Nine
• Olympus 35 S- II, Olympus Wide-S
• Konica IIIL, Konica IIIA
• Mamiya 35 Metra 2
• Lord 5D
BTW - Chris Sherlock DID offer to have a look at the Mamiya. Maybe I should send it to him?
Also , going over my notes I'm thinking the repair shop in Portland, Oregon may have left a part out when they re-assembled it🙁 Several times I noted that the camera seemed to be firing at ONE speed after they "looked" at it. Before that, I'm sure all but 1/500 were working.
cassel
Well-known
Here's TWO more for sale on a European auction page:
http://auction.catawiki.com/kavels/2279685-mamiya-35-magazine
Both are "Big Window" models -- I can see by looking carefully that the "nomenclature" diagram in the pictured manual has the bigger eyepiece - this is different from the manual I have (also the cover in the auction is yellow, while mine is blue). Interesting... can't see the serial numbers for either camera, won't be able to add them to the list😉
http://auction.catawiki.com/kavels/2279685-mamiya-35-magazine
Both are "Big Window" models -- I can see by looking carefully that the "nomenclature" diagram in the pictured manual has the bigger eyepiece - this is different from the manual I have (also the cover in the auction is yellow, while mine is blue). Interesting... can't see the serial numbers for either camera, won't be able to add them to the list😉
Pherdinand
the snow must go on
Thats the site i ment, cassel, not ebay🙂
cassel
Well-known
The family is back together🙄
The f2.8 model is working fine -- just need to adjust the rangefinder.
The f2.0 model (problem child) has a host of issues that seem to defy repair: if you've been reading the thread you know what I'm writing about.
As a brief refresher and as a dated document:
The f2.0 fires correctly at "B" and every other shutter speed setting fires at 1/250 (except 1/500-- which is too hard to select- not gonna try it). Doug backed off from his claim of missing parts-- just excessive wear (same as others who have looked at it). He gave me a refund.
The shutter release is a little better (I think). The other functions are OK...however, now that I have the camera back in my possession I've noticed a few things-- there are a couple of screws that look like replacements and other evidence mostly scratches that indicate that this poor camera has been apart before -- likely multiple times.
The main problem going forward is that one of the parts that hold the shutter crate (behind the front element) was damaged and Doug had to improvise a repair with a new screw and epoxy--- not really easy to service. Now it is harder service and only fires at one speed-- pretty unusable except as a shutter priority/sunny-day/fast film sort of camera. I'm not sure I would choose that as a shooter...too limiting and it would irritate/remind me every time I tried to use it. No thanks.
The f2.8 model is working fine -- just need to adjust the rangefinder.
The f2.0 model (problem child) has a host of issues that seem to defy repair: if you've been reading the thread you know what I'm writing about.
As a brief refresher and as a dated document:
The f2.0 fires correctly at "B" and every other shutter speed setting fires at 1/250 (except 1/500-- which is too hard to select- not gonna try it). Doug backed off from his claim of missing parts-- just excessive wear (same as others who have looked at it). He gave me a refund.
The shutter release is a little better (I think). The other functions are OK...however, now that I have the camera back in my possession I've noticed a few things-- there are a couple of screws that look like replacements and other evidence mostly scratches that indicate that this poor camera has been apart before -- likely multiple times.
The main problem going forward is that one of the parts that hold the shutter crate (behind the front element) was damaged and Doug had to improvise a repair with a new screw and epoxy--- not really easy to service. Now it is harder service and only fires at one speed-- pretty unusable except as a shutter priority/sunny-day/fast film sort of camera. I'm not sure I would choose that as a shooter...too limiting and it would irritate/remind me every time I tried to use it. No thanks.
cassel
Well-known
Working on taking apart my Aires IIIC to practice working on a Seikosha MXL shutter. This camera works but need a cleaning-- shutter is dirty and sluggish until you fire a few shots.
Here's how far I've progressed so far; how can I proceed here? Need to remove those three odd screws and remove the front element to access the shutter:
Here's how far I've progressed so far; how can I proceed here? Need to remove those three odd screws and remove the front element to access the shutter:
Hi,
To get the slotted screws with the centre holes in them off, the best approach would be to procure a screwdriver with the correct sized slots and then slot the tip to enable it to be inserted over the centre to reach the slots. If needed you can hand file such a tool although a small grinder such as a dremel makes things much quicker and easier. Since it is something you're unlikely to use heavily, a cheaper tool is usually fine to modify. To get the lens out you may have some success with some rubber mat depending on how tightly it is threaded. The advantage of rubber is also that it will not mark the parts being turned. I would probably place a smal piece of tape over the cleaned glass, first, to prevent any scuffing to the coating before trying rubber. If you're unable to unscrew it this way you will need to get yourself a lens spanner which should make short work of removing the lens. It won't be fastened tightly (this is a relative term of course but compared to automotive fasteners for instance), so the matter is simply one of obtaining the purchase you need to unscrew it.
Before removing the front of the shutter I would try gently swabbing the shutter blades with some lens tissue or cotton tips dampened (not wet) with lighter fluid. From your description (shutter is dirty and sluggish until you fire a few shots) it sounds to me very much as though sticking shutter blades are a part of the issue this particular one has. By swabbing the blades with lighter fluid as described above, alternating with clean tissue to remove contaminants, between firing the shutter, eventually you'll get the blades fairly clean, and it's quite possible it will run well after this. You'll want to open it up anyway I suppose because of course this is also part of the process of trying to get the Mamiya going, but if you can make the Aires work as you go, so much the better, and it's good for your confidence anyway, so try that first perhaps?
Cheers
Brett
nhchen
Nathan
Looks good so far. The one I had a few years ago had frozen shutter blades in it too. But I couldn't clean them up enough to get the shutter running until I disassembled the whole thing to get the shutter blades out to clean them. If you needed to do that you'll have to remove the whole lens mount from the camera. Unfortunately I wasn't very experienced so managed to ruin the part of the shutter that controlled the Bulb setting....
While not showing how the shutter was disassembled, this page does show what's under the top cover:
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~RD2H-ARI/BUN_AIRES3C.htm
The same shutter in the IIIL model?
http://feuerbacher.net/photo/repair/Aires35IIIL/Aires35IIIL.html
http://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=airesiiil
regards,
nathan
While not showing how the shutter was disassembled, this page does show what's under the top cover:
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~RD2H-ARI/BUN_AIRES3C.htm
The same shutter in the IIIL model?
http://feuerbacher.net/photo/repair/Aires35IIIL/Aires35IIIL.html
http://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=airesiiil
regards,
nathan
cassel
Well-known
Thanks guys-- making progress. The three screws have been removed; I had some precision tip old drafting equipment that worked fine. The lens element is not budging with fingers only. So far, I have been very careful and have not damaged anything.
EDIT:
Dang! That element group won't move a bit-- very tight....
EDIT:
Dang! That element group won't move a bit-- very tight....
Looks like you will need to invest in a lens spanner, then. You have tried using some rubber to increase your grip? Fingers alone will occasionally get one loose but usually form of assistance will be required.
Cheers
Brett
Cheers
Brett
cassel
Well-known
Yep-- tried a couple of different rubber grips without luck (this is standard RH thread, correct?). If I use a spanner (I can see the notches in the normal spots) won't that just allow me to remove the retaining ring that is holding the front element? Won't the metal housing still remain and block full access to the shutter?😕
As it doesn't rotate there would be no reason for it to be anything other than a RH thread. The lens would have to come out in any event to access the shutter and aperture blades. As to the ring, presumably that either comes off with the front rings or is part of the shutter housing.
It's hard to see from your photo, but, if the notches are proud of the outer ring, you may be able to employ Eg. a steel rule as a substitute for a lens spanner in this case, if you have one that would fit the slots.
Cheers,
Brett
cassel
Well-known
Man I am super stubborn (and a bit dumb I suppose). The F2.0 is on it's way to yet another repairman. The difference this time is more knowledge and I sent the Aries along for spare parts. We shall see...
That lens is a keeper. I hope the f/2 gets there in the end.
cassel
Well-known
Me too.... In the meantime I will enjoy the two good examples that seem to work fine. I just would like the other f2.0 (the first one I acquired from Gary) to be functional. The glass on that particular camera is flawless...just attached to a wonky shutter.
The f2.8 I've been shooting has edge separation and is not quite the performer somehow -- though it does fine stopped down in sunshine.
The second f2.0 that I found online in Tokyo is great mechanically and the glass is very good, but does have some flaws: namely slight edge fungus and "cleaning" marks. In practice it is 98% (opinion? imagined?) as good as the other f2.0
I can live happily with my existing two working examples, but I am hopeful the jewel of the collection can be made to work as well.
cassel
Well-known
BTW-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311425582751?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Goes off in a few hours: another nice f2.8 model this time with an original box (never seen before by me)🙂 and a lens brush😱
I would bid but a gotta save my pennies for the repair of my f2.0😀
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311425582751?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Goes off in a few hours: another nice f2.8 model this time with an original box (never seen before by me)🙂 and a lens brush😱
I would bid but a gotta save my pennies for the repair of my f2.0😀
cassel
Well-known
FOUR on eBay right now... I still have three-- one of which is out for repair.
BLKRCAT
75% Film
Anyone collecting this stuff still? Over the weekend I was browsing through a very small rural antiques place and found a magazine with cap and a black leather case for it sitting in a box of useless duplication gear.
Probably could have gotten it for peanuts but I'm not looking to replace my Ms
cassel
Well-known
Big, exciting day for the Mamiya Magazine collection!🙂🙂
The f2.0 from Gary's collection is back....it is repaired!!!
Works beautifully....many months of trying and the third repairman....way to go Ken Ruth. This will be one of the last cameras that he restores--- lucky me. Ken is retired after many years of quality work. Thanks, Ken :angel:
The shutter is smooth and operates on all speeds. I will baby this camera and use it just enough to keep it working.
Ken included testing results on the shutter that are interesting:
1/1 (1.0 second) = .901
1/2 (.500) = .553
1/5 (.200) = .237
1/10 (.100) = .132
1/25 (.040) = .0388
1/50 (.020) = .0244
1/100 (.010) = .0114
1/250 (.004) = .00853 (more like 1/125)
1/500 (.002) = .00433 (more like 1/250)
The f2.0 from Gary's collection is back....it is repaired!!!
Works beautifully....many months of trying and the third repairman....way to go Ken Ruth. This will be one of the last cameras that he restores--- lucky me. Ken is retired after many years of quality work. Thanks, Ken :angel:
The shutter is smooth and operates on all speeds. I will baby this camera and use it just enough to keep it working.
Ken included testing results on the shutter that are interesting:
1/1 (1.0 second) = .901
1/2 (.500) = .553
1/5 (.200) = .237
1/10 (.100) = .132
1/25 (.040) = .0388
1/50 (.020) = .0244
1/100 (.010) = .0114
1/250 (.004) = .00853 (more like 1/125)
1/500 (.002) = .00433 (more like 1/250)
hilltime
Well-known
Wow, what a Journey! I applaud you for your extreme persistence and you now have potentially one of the rarer classics from the era. And to think, not only one but two examples. I really wonder how many more are still around and now especially, functioning. Kudos to you, and I hope you have many years of enjoyment with these.
Gary
Gary
