Metering with an M5

[Steinberg2010]

Somewhat inspired by the recent M6 metering thread:

I recently acquired an M5 and a 35mm lens and have only had time to put two rolls through it.

I noticed that my first rolls are at least a stop underexposed compared to my negs that I have got from my Nikon FM (centre-weighted) and my M3 (shot sunny-16).

I don't believe my metering technique has changed much (point the meter at the bit you want grey and then shoot) – therefore is the sky having more of an effect on the meter in the M5?

I checked the meter in my room against my Nikon F100 and they were within 1/2 a stop of each other so the M5 can't be far out...

Thanks for your help!

~S

 

[Kolame]

I don't own an M5, but read quite a bit about it a while ago.
Here you can find something about the metering system of the M5.

 

[Steinberg2010]

Cheers!

~S

 

[Richard G]

If anything I am more likely to overexpose with mine, if the meter is looking at something dark. Mine was fixed for 1.55V batteries (LR9) before I bought it. I am always second guessing in camera meters. I am more inclined to do what my M6 tells me. Metering from my hand with both gives the same reading. Finding silver oxide cells for the M5 looks difficult. Could your battery be on the decline of your alkaline cell's voltage curve?

 

[Steinberg2010]

Possible - but when I run the test it swings over to the right hand side readily. I know it has already been converted. I'm going to run another roll through it and pay close attention to my metering technique to ensure it's not just me being an idiot...

With continuous tones (like an interior wall) it pretty much matches my F100 so it can't be far out.

~S

 

[sepiareverb]

The M5 is a spot meter with a big spot. The circular frames you see when a 50 is mounted outline the metering area. I learned the meter pretty well by just moving the camera round a very bright and dark scene with strong changes in brightness. A little study and the metering area can be figured out pretty quickly.

 

[Trius]

If you shoot a standard grey card, metered on only the card, you should be able to tell more about what's going on. It's possible the meter is correct but the shutter speeds are off. Or vice versa.