Mint condition

colyn

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I see this description a lot on **bay..
How can a camera/lens/etc be mint condition when it has marks or other signs of use??
 
Keith novak said:
The one that blows me away is "mint plus"

How the hell does that work?🙄

I haven't seen that one yet..

I once bought a SRT for parts that was described as "mint".. Only thing is it was not working and when I got it it had a couple of dents and scratches as well as bright marks.
 
colyn said:
...How can a camera/lens/etc be mint condition when it has marks or other signs of use??

I find it very hard to trust anything in seller's descriptions when I see the 'mint' statement accompanied by a list of failings... unfortunately it's use is becoming more popular & the meaning just keeps getting broarder 🙁

Peter
 
colyn said:
I haven't seen that one yet..

I once bought a SRT for parts that was described as "mint".. Only thing is it was not working and when I got it it had a couple of dents and scratches as well as bright marks.

I suppose "mint" doesn't have to denote that it's working, but how much wear does an item need to become Mint-. my own pet hate. Mint+ is just the creation of a deranged mind.
 
If "mint" is a take-off from the monetary mints, it's not "mint" if it's been used. Period. Mint condition is usually assumed to be "not circulated". If you have seen any of the recent "gold" dollars, my bank offered me some in plastic sleeves that had not been circulated. So much for "mint".

Somehow, for camera equipment, that term has been so over-used that I think it is pretty well becoming meaningless. "A slight scratch near the rewind knob" does not necessarily lower the usefulness of a camera, but some collector who wants to display it on a shelf, innocent of film at all times, may turn up his/her nose at such a description.

As for that slight scratch near the rewind knob, it does not apply to digital cameras.
 
The scales that run from EXC (through EXC+, EXC++, Mint-...etc) always amuse me where EXC means beaten-up junk. Not really the dictionary definition of excellent...
 
Buyer beware is the rule of the day on EvilBay.

I've had problems on the bad side and some great luck on the good side. I got a motor drive that was in good shape and it was excellent and working fine. Wont list the bad ones, including outright lies.

Feedback on EvilBay is BS. The most recent lie was a lens in Mint condition which needed to be rebuilt for $125! The seller did not leave feedback until I did, so he got none and still has a high rating.

I've gotten in the habit of asking lots of questions.

B2 (;->
 
Mint or not, a general rule, I would not buy "high-value" items used from anywhere, including ebay, KEH, etc. It may save you perhaps 20-30% but may cost you more in the long term. I'd prefer to do comparison shopping for new items, even new grey market items are better than mint.

Most of the warranty lasts about a year, you can discover any flaws during that time and have it fixed (if not outright replacement). It doesn't matter who services it afterward, a reputable repair shop or from manufacturer.
 
peter_n said:
A seller with integrity would use a scale and point you to the source, like the KEH scale for example.

That's what I used in my previous Ebay listings.
It seems to be the best and easiest scale to use when describing the item.

I never understood "minty" (which I used to see a lot) as well.

Dave
 
endustry said:
I am planning on selling an M6 titanium with only three really tiny marks no larger than a pin head on it. The only other thing is that I removed the red Leica dot and replaced it with a black one as used on the LHSA M6. I was planning on listing it as "M-" Does this sound like M- to you folks?

I would list it as KEH EX+
"Excellent Plus" 90-96% of the original condition. Shows moderate wear. May have slight marks on finish. Glass very clean.

The marks on it, small as they may be, are marks to the finish of the body but more importantly you've removed and replaced something on the body.

Using the KEH scale and grading extremely conservatively, it's difficult to describe an item incorrectly imho.

Just my 2 cents,
Dave
 
mervynyan said:
Mint or not, a general rule, I would not buy "high-value" items used from anywhere, including ebay, KEH, etc. It may save you perhaps 20-30% but may cost you more in the long term. I'd prefer to do comparison shopping for new items, even new grey market items are better than mint.

I've generally had good luck buying on the bay even high dollar items and I've had even better luck buying from KEH. But then I know King Grant personally.
However....I never buy items of more than $50 without getting a promise of money back if not as described.

The only deals I've lost on *bay were low dollar items..and they were just 2 items.
 
I've been pretty lucky with my eBay purchases; those described as excellent or better really were. I think KEH is much more accurate with their ratings and, at least with the items I've purchased from them, seem to rate a grade lower than they really are.
 
As someone who has sold thousands of CDs on eBay, including some that have gone for more than $100, I don't believe most people have any idea how to properly list items. I cruise the CD listings on a regular basis, and I can't tell you how many times I have seen CDs listed as Rare or Hard To Find when it is still in print. Many people will abuse those terms to the point that they have become meaningless, which is unfortunate. There are still good deals to be had on eBay, but it takes patience and the willingness to walk away if something smells funny. Everything will eventually come up for sale, if it passes you by the first time, it will likely be seen again eventually!
 
Flyfisher Tom said:
It might be easier to just use a number scale ...
1 to 10 of original condition
or 1% to 100% of original condition
I bought a Seagull 203 that was described as "80% new"...not too much money(around $60US, shipped) so I took a chance. Unfortunately the 20% that wasn't new was the RF. Sure looks pretty, though.🙄
Rob
 
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