Mint Yashica GSN Electro 35 for $29?

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I came across a mint Yashica GSN Electro 35 w/ever-ready case, lens cap, and hot-shoe plastic cap for $29 at an antique co-op near me.

All seemed to work fine (can't test electronics - needs new batteries though) but when I opened the film door, I noticed a gooey black tar residue on my fingers as I ran them along the back edge. Come to find out, this is a common problem with foam deteriorating.

Question, I found a website suggesting cleaning with isopropyl alcohol and toothpicks to get out residue but will the camera be light tight afterwards or do the seals need to be replaced? I'm not good at this stuff so don't want to buy a project camera.

Thanks!
 
It's less then I paid for my GSN. :)

Best thing is to replace the deteriorated seals. There are ready-to-use replacement sets out there for the GSN.
Remove the bad ones as with alcohol and a scraper as suggested.

In the meantime you could use masking tape to cover the edges of the film door.

Have you checked for the "Pad of Death"?
 
Film door will need new seals, for sure, but that's minor and common procedure. Pad of death, crucial for proper exposures, will need to be replaced but doable if you read on this before and know what you are doing. I recommend needle surgery method instead of removing lens unit.
 
Pad of Death. Ok, just looked it up. Hmmm... I dunno... :(

Not the rocket science, even if you are repair novice - just don't go too fast. Or just send it out for CLA.

I just think while GSN has nice lens, ergonomically there are better cameras. But for this price you aren't loosing anything - you will be able to sell to recover expenses.
 
I came across a mint Yashica GSN Electro 35 w/ever-ready case, lens cap, and hot-shoe plastic cap for $29 at an antique co-op near me.

All seemed to work fine ... snip ...

I've bought several of these and conferred with people who do a lot of them (our own Frontman, for example).

This is a terrific camera. With work, it can be excellent, reliable, and a pleasure to use.

Work:
- It certainly needs light seals. Google for info and how-to. A bit messy, but easy to do.
- 95% likely it needs the POD replaced. Much more difficult, but within reach for a handy person. Again, Google.
- Probably needs some adjustments, especially after the items above.

I've had several that seemed OK, but needed some of the above. A while back I started this thread on how to test a Yashica Electro.

Good Electros with the work already done are going for $120-$150 or even more. Mark Hama has one for sale now on the auction site. Search there with "yashica electro mark hama" to find it. Mark is the expert on these cameras.

I wish you the best in all this!
 
I sold mine for a song about a year ago.....had a new POD and seals and was pristine.....somebody should have stopped me.... I am so sorry I did!!!!!
 
Someone (I think it was here at RFF) said that about half of the GSNs came with a pad that was of much more durable material (like on mine).

Just listen for the "Thunk" sound when turning the advance lever. If it sounds like metal-on-metal it will need a new POD.
 
Just listen for the "Thunk" sound when turning the advance lever. If it sounds like metal-on-metal it will need a new POD.

Thunk isn't everything. It comes from spring when it gets loaded, and how long it takes to wear gooey remains of pad to wear off camera parts to have metal-to-metal sound? Usually goo just sits there, but spacing isn't up to specs. I say exposures are real proof.
 
I bought a pristine GSN & the POD went bad. Don't let looks fool you. If the light seals are all gooey then most likely the POD is gone or will go out soon. It's NOT an easy fix. It has a great lens but the body is cheap. My Canonet QL17GIII is a much better all around camera. Put your money in something nicer than a GSN.
 
It appears that sometime during the GSN/GTN production run, Yashica changed the material for the POD to something more durable. I have four working GSNs. One required a new POD and three didn't. The foam light seals, however, almost inevitably have turned to goo after a minimum of 35 years. Jon Goodman [jon_goodman@yahoo.com] puts together a really first-class light seal replacement kit. He no longer sells on ebay, but he takes orders directly at that email address.

I've used the Colonel's test procedure on all my Electro 35s. They'll definitely help you determine whether you might need a new POD. Once I think the camera is working right, I usually spring for a cheap roll of drugstore film to test it the first time.

Greg, congratulations on your superior GIII. Just curious, did you replace its light seals and clean its sticky shutter yourself, or did you get a professional CLA?
 
Just curious, did you replace its light seals and clean its sticky shutter yourself, or did you get a professional CLA?

thhhhhh
yeah, Canonets have their own quirks. But which 40 years old camera doesn't? Once one realizes there's no free lunch then question changes from "which camera is troublefree?" to "which camera I choose to repair and use subsequently?". Knowing about potential issues and adjust expectations and action plan accordingly is crucial when choosing old cameras.
 
Greg, congratulations on your superior GIII. Just curious, did you replace its light seals and clean its sticky shutter yourself, or did you get a professional CLA?

I'd laugh if I hadn't done both; replacing the seals and unsticking the aperture mechanism..... And the meter still doesn't work on my GIII... :rolleyes:
 
I'd love to offer to do the two minor repairs mentioned here ( I've done it a couple of times),but the postage out of Canada is stupid high,more than half what you paid for the camera. Don't let too many naysayers discourage you
from this great little rangefinder (and yes it's larger than a Minolta Hi_Matic,but ,I find them an easy hold)
Regards,Peter
 
See my signature area below for a link to my explanation of the "POD". Might be helpful...

Someone (I think it was here at RFF) said that about half of the GSNs came with a pad that was of much more durable material (like on mine).

That was me. This was what I have experienced in the course of refurbishing 300+ Electros over the last 5 years. G's and GS/GT's are virtually 100% bad, but apparently later model GSN/GTN's have a more durable POD material.

Having a "clunk" is indeed NOT a reliable indicator of a good POD, as bgtc said above. It must be confirmed visually by removing the top of the camera.

A bad POD will normally result in erratic meter performance. A common symptom is the shutter acting like it is set to B when actually set in the flash position. Also sometimes the B setting will cause the shutter to stay open when the shutter button is released, and only closes when the film is wound. There are other possible symptoms as well, none of them good...


Russ
 
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