Most Commonly Used B&W Film Developer

[presspass]

For the past several years, it's been all D-23. Sometimes straight replenished, less often 1:1, and for certain films like Kentmere 400, 1:3 with reduced agitation. It gives me what I need when scanning and makes beautiful wet prints. Inexpensive, simple to make, and reliable - what's not to like?

 

[lawrence]

Right now were switching from XTOL (W27) to FX-39 for a while, to see which we like better.

I've used FX-39 for many years. It's very sharp indeed with moderately fine grain (think of it as fine grain Rodinal) however the keeping qualities aren't great so I strongly recommend that you decant into smaller bottles filled to the top. It's excellent with modern technology films like TMax and Delta.

 

[Rob-F]

I'm surprised that HC-110 is leading by a wide margin, since people seldom talk about it here. Must be a lot of closet users. I thought D-76 or Rodinal would be on top.

Actually you would think XTOL would be close to the top, since Kodak's info says that XTOL has the best of everything: best sharpness, best film speed boost, and finest grain. The ideal developer, seemingly; except for "dreaded XTOL failure" and you have to mix 5 liters of it. And of course some prefer the tonality of D-76 or Rodinal.

 

[Rayt]

Acros @64 with Rodinal 1:50, and TMY box speed with HC-110 dilution B.

 

[Rob-F]

Right now were switching from XTOL (W27) to FX-39 for a while, to see which we like better.

I've used FX-39 for many years. It's very sharp indeed with moderately fine grain (think of it as fine grain Rodinal) however the keeping qualities aren't great so I strongly recommend that you decant into smaller bottles filled to the top. It's excellent with modern technology films like TMax and Delta.

What is FX-39? WHo makes it? I am not familiar with it.

 

[ptpdprinter]

I'm surprised that HC-110 is leading by a wide margin, since people seldom talk about it here. Must be a lot of closet users. I thought D-76 or Rodinal would be on top.

We only have 65 votes so far on the survey, so I don't think we have a representative sample. As time goes on, I expect D76, XTOL, and Rodinal to pick up adherents.

Developer choice is closely connected to film choice. I use Delta 100/400 and so use Ilford DDX, though I sometimes use Tri-X/Rodinal for effect.

 

[J enea]

pyrocat-MC or rodinal or Beutler for my slow films, acros, tmax 100, rollei retro 80s and APX 25, just depends on my mood and what I shot, but mainly Pyro-mc. I mix the pyro and beutler as needed and most people know about rodinal and its shelf life.

for faster films like retro 400s, tri-x and tmax 400 I use XTOL replenished. I do use tmax 400 and Pyro-mc if I shoot the film at 200 cause of the fine grain tmax 400 has

but the most used, for the poll purpose, would be pyro-mc

 

[roscoetuff]

Agree as I especially thought I'd see more XTOL - which I've not used but am eager to see how it, or it's Ilford work-a-like compare to HC-110. But it's summer shootin' time... that's why I left the poll open "forever".

 

[ptpdprinter]

What is FX-39? WHo makes it? I am not familiar with it.

From the Adox website:

"FX-39 is based on Willi Beutler´s formula for Neofin Red, but was further developed by Geoffrey Crawley. Makes very good use of the film’s full ISO-rating. It’s possible to double the films ISO by adjusting the development times. FX39 can be used in various dilutions in order to develop low-sensitivity films with at least 6-minutes developing time. Especially good for films up to 200 ASA. Well suited for school-photography because of the high equalizing power, low toxidity (no GLS labeling necessary) and easy of use (liquid concentrated one shot developer)."

I have no idea what "high equalizing power" means.

 

[julio1fer]

I use home-brewed Beutler, which I find excellent for TMX and very good for Pan F and FP4+.

For ISO 400 classic grain I switch to home-brewed D-76,

 

[roscoetuff]

ptprinter: That's the Beutler Neofin Red (FX-39) and then there's Photo Formulary's Beutler Neofin Blue which is a two-solution formula, "compensating developer that gives excellent sharpness, medium grain and low contrast", "bringing out the fine details in the shadows and decreasing the overall contrast of the negative." So Beutler alone... I don't know.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

HC-110. Because it is very easy to store and work with. Small bottle only needed. And it is very neutral to the negative. Which is good thing for me. I'm adding drama with contrast filters on taking lens or on projecting lens. Or with lith developer.
Rodinal is my second choice for slow films only. Which I don't actually use. K400 and HP5+ are the only films I'm using now. HC-100 allows to push @ISO1600 the K400 and HP5+ @3200.

To be honest, HP5+ at @1600 in HC-110 has most appealing contrast to me on darkroom prints 🙂 :

 

[ptpdprinter]

ptprinter: That's the Beutler Neofin Red (FX-39) and then there's Photo Formulary's Beutler Neofin Blue which is a two-solution formula, "compensating developer that gives excellent sharpness, medium grain and low contrast", "bringing out the fine details in the shadows and decreasing the overall contrast of the negative." So Beutler alone... I don't know.

I am familiar with those developer properties. I'm just not sure what "high equalizing power" is.

 

[:: Mark]

I use ID-11 mostly, mainly because in powder form it keeps forever (it is 35c here in Barcelona right now) and because D76 is harder to find.

Ideally, I would prefer to use DD-X but the cost is high, and storing partially used (concentrated) solution in these temperatures is impractical. I hope to have a dedicated refrigerator for the chemicals later this year...

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

One question:
As I see Microphen was not mentioned in the list, maybe I've been missing something...
Are you members using another developer good for pushing and for sharp classic grain?
Thanks!

 

[anerjee]

Juan, see my reply above, my approach seems to be similar to yours.

I don't push, but I do use Microphen for Tri-x @ 640. I've tried DD-X, X-Tol, Acufine, Diafine -- I just prefer the grain and look of Microphen.

Here is a thread I have bookmarked which maybe of interest to you as well:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1856125&postcount=12

One question:
As I see Microphen was not mentioned in the list, maybe I've been missing something...
Are you members using another developer good for pushing and for sharp classic grain?
Thanks!

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Juan, see my reply above, my approach seems to be similar to yours.

I don't push, but I do use Microphen for Tri-x @ 640. I've tried DD-X, X-Tol, Acufine, Diafine -- I just prefer the grain and look of Microphen.

Here is a thread I have bookmarked which maybe of interest to you as well:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1856125&postcount=12

That was interesting! Thank you very much!!

 

[Pioneer]

Hey Dan: Which Beutler are you using (I think there's Red and Blue)? Shots I've seen with D-23 seem to show really well.

FWIW, I'm using HC-110 as my main squeeze. I like the flexibility to use it in any number of ways. Not my favorite results, but very dependable. I've liked the results of FP4+ with Pyrocat-HD, but I like them with HC-110, too. Looking forward to trying some Rodinal with 120 where I hear the grain issues ...are negated by the negative's size.

I mix up my own Beutler.

Part A is 10g of metol and 50g of sodium sulfite in 1000ml of water, usually distilled but my water isn't too bad so I'm not a stickler for this.

Part B is just 50g of sodium carbonate in 1000ml of water.

Solution is mixed 1:1:8 and the development time is dependent on the film speed. I am using a lot of JCH Street Pan 400 and Arista EDU Ultra 400 (exposed at EI200) so my standard time is 11 minutes.

D23 is used for everything else although I do use a bit of Rodinal for some films and Adox Adotech II (now III) for my Adox CMS 20.

Rodinal is very long lasting. Beutler seems to last nicely as well, but I only mix up a liter of A and a liter of B at a time so it usually gets used up fairly quickly as Part A & B is mixed and then used one shot.

D23 lasts a very long time...or not...depending on how you look at it. I mix what I need for each session and then toss it so it is always fresh for each developing session. I actually prefer D-23 over D-76 and it seems to give a bit finer grain. Of course, I can't swear to that since I have done no serious testing.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

I only shoot tri-x, usually at 250 (for daylight) or 640 (for indoors), and use Rodinal and Microphen respectively

Well, quite close as you said, anerjee! And even more... Before switching to HP5+ in Microphen perhaps two years ago, nearly all my life I used Tri-X in Rodinal... Both are close!

 

[roscoetuff]

Juan: Didn't mean to slight Microphen by any means. Clearly I left out plenty of good stuff. Caffenol and a variety of good stuff, too. Worked off the Ilford-Kodak equivalent sheet on the web (and didn't add the ECO equivalents). My apologies.

FWIW, I'm glad folks mentioned the other developers... like Beutler and D-23 and hope that will continue. Would've liked to have seen FX-1/FX-2/TFX-2 and a slew of others as well (I have a bottle of TFX-2 I bought on a lark). The Barry Thornton Dixatol (Ultra) / Exactol Lux and some of the other good old stuff is of interest as well. But I keep going with what works and is dependable.