My film developing times

Chriscrawfordphoto

Real Men Shoot Film.
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I've put up a page on my website where I've posted all of my tested film developing times with the EI I use and times for normal and N-1 (reduced contrast) developing for the three developers I use (Tmax, Rodinal, and D-76) and the various films that I have tested. I get asked a lot what times I use and how I develop to get the quality that I get, so I decided to post it up for everyone to see and use. N-Joy!

http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/developing.php
 
Hey man - thanks a lot. Your insights and experience on development has always been appreciated by me. Thanks for posting that stuff.
 
I looked at the one developer that I use and the two (2) films that I also use. My times are a little bit longer but not a great variation from yours, thanks again.
 
I looked at the one developer that I use and the two (2) films that I also use. My times are a little bit longer but not a great variation from yours, thanks again.

Carter, are you scanning your film or printing in the darkroom? Those times are based on scanning in my Nikon LS-8000 but the negs I'm getting look very similar to my older negs that I developed back when I had a darkroom to print. Small time differences aren't that big of deal, your exact time will depend on what type of enlarger you have, what papers you print on, and what scanner and scanner software you use if you scan like I do.
 
I'm glad I could help everyone. I'm going to add to it some more later with some examples done with the different combos and my opinions on what films I like best on each developer.
 
Carter, are you scanning your film or printing in the darkroom? Those times are based on scanning in my Nikon LS-8000 but the negs I'm getting look very similar to my older negs that I developed back when I had a darkroom to print. Small time differences aren't that big of deal, your exact time will depend on what type of enlarger you have, what papers you print on, and what scanner and scanner software you use if you scan like I do.

Neither, I copy my negatives with my own copying device.

2860872771_b9d6ababfe.jpg
 
Hi Chris, your recommended time (last week) of 8.5 minutes at 20ºC for TMax100 under direct sun in Rodinal 1+50 was really close to my finding of 11 minutes at 18ºC... Thanks for a list of times I will trust any time...

Cheers,

Juan
 
Hi Chris, your recommended time (last week) of 8.5 minutes at 20ºC for TMax100 under direct sun in Rodinal 1+50 was really close to my finding of 11 minutes at 18ºC... Thanks for a list of times I will trust any time...

Cheers,

Juan

Did the 8.5 minutes work for you? I told you that from memory and when I checked my motes, it should have been 8 minutes, which I have correct on my site now. 30 seconds probably won't be a huge difference though.
 
Did the 8.5 minutes work for you? I told you that from memory and when I checked my motes, it should have been 8 minutes, which I have correct on my site now. 30 seconds probably won't be a huge difference though.


Although I didn't try any developing time at 20ºC (I use 18ºC with Rodinal always) my best contact prints were from scenes exposed at ISO25 incident with yellow filter and developed for 11 minutes at 18ºC. I guess that's very close to your time...

And you were right: tone of TMax100 in Rodinal is fantastic! Now that I have seen how both 100 and 400 TMax films behave under harsh and soft lights, I guess I won't try any other film for long... I just hope Kodak keeps making them for many years, so I can shoot them and enjoy them for the rest of their lifespan... After comparing, for me TMax is as good as it gets!

Cheers,

Juan
 
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