Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I've put up a page on my website where I've posted all of my tested film developing times with the EI I use and times for normal and N-1 (reduced contrast) developing for the three developers I use (Tmax, Rodinal, and D-76) and the various films that I have tested. I get asked a lot what times I use and how I develop to get the quality that I get, so I decided to post it up for everyone to see and use. N-Joy!
http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/developing.php
http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/developing.php
snausages
Well-known
Very generous of you Chris.
I can vouch that Chris' development recipes yield terrific results.
I can vouch that Chris' development recipes yield terrific results.
Shac
Well-known
Chris - Thank you. Very useful to help me zero in on mine
David
David
gb hill
Veteran
Chris, your b&w work is incredible! Thank you for this!
charjohncarter
Veteran
Yes, thanks, I haven't looked at your site yet, but as soon as I finish this stupid post, I will.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
its now 'BOOKMARKED'....Thanx 
Cheers- h
Cheers- h
jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
Hey man - thanks a lot. Your insights and experience on development has always been appreciated by me. Thanks for posting that stuff.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I looked at the one developer that I use and the two (2) films that I also use. My times are a little bit longer but not a great variation from yours, thanks again.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I looked at the one developer that I use and the two (2) films that I also use. My times are a little bit longer but not a great variation from yours, thanks again.
Carter, are you scanning your film or printing in the darkroom? Those times are based on scanning in my Nikon LS-8000 but the negs I'm getting look very similar to my older negs that I developed back when I had a darkroom to print. Small time differences aren't that big of deal, your exact time will depend on what type of enlarger you have, what papers you print on, and what scanner and scanner software you use if you scan like I do.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I'm glad I could help everyone. I'm going to add to it some more later with some examples done with the different combos and my opinions on what films I like best on each developer.
robklurfield
eclipse
thanks for the link and the charts. great website, btw.
maggieo
More Deadly
Cool beans, Chris!! Thanks!
charjohncarter
Veteran
Carter, are you scanning your film or printing in the darkroom? Those times are based on scanning in my Nikon LS-8000 but the negs I'm getting look very similar to my older negs that I developed back when I had a darkroom to print. Small time differences aren't that big of deal, your exact time will depend on what type of enlarger you have, what papers you print on, and what scanner and scanner software you use if you scan like I do.
Neither, I copy my negatives with my own copying device.

Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Hi Chris, your recommended time (last week) of 8.5 minutes at 20ºC for TMax100 under direct sun in Rodinal 1+50 was really close to my finding of 11 minutes at 18ºC... Thanks for a list of times I will trust any time...
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Hi Chris, your recommended time (last week) of 8.5 minutes at 20ºC for TMax100 under direct sun in Rodinal 1+50 was really close to my finding of 11 minutes at 18ºC... Thanks for a list of times I will trust any time...
Cheers,
Juan
Did the 8.5 minutes work for you? I told you that from memory and when I checked my motes, it should have been 8 minutes, which I have correct on my site now. 30 seconds probably won't be a huge difference though.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Neither, I copy my negatives with my own copying device.
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Interesting system! Do negs that print nicely in the darkroom look good shot with your system straight from the camera (after inverting) or do they need a lot of contrast added, like my film scans always do?
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
Chris, thanks ! I save a copy in pdf format. I hope you continue to update it, both in the film development time and the scanning portion. raytoei
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I just added the scanning page, which needs a lot more work. And I had forgotten to put the D-76 time for Neopan 1600, so its added now.
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Did the 8.5 minutes work for you? I told you that from memory and when I checked my motes, it should have been 8 minutes, which I have correct on my site now. 30 seconds probably won't be a huge difference though.
Although I didn't try any developing time at 20ºC (I use 18ºC with Rodinal always) my best contact prints were from scenes exposed at ISO25 incident with yellow filter and developed for 11 minutes at 18ºC. I guess that's very close to your time...
And you were right: tone of TMax100 in Rodinal is fantastic! Now that I have seen how both 100 and 400 TMax films behave under harsh and soft lights, I guess I won't try any other film for long... I just hope Kodak keeps making them for many years, so I can shoot them and enjoy them for the rest of their lifespan... After comparing, for me TMax is as good as it gets!
Cheers,
Juan
sig
Well-known
Thanks, I will try this
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