My first FED...And a question or two

[Max Power]

So today after 2 weeks I received my dead sexy 'streetwalker red' FED 5V 😀

It seems to be in perfect working order except for one minor thing which I think that should be simple to fix.
The arm on which the cam is attached is a bit reticent in coming forwards for close focusing. Pushed further back it moves without trouble, but it needs a bit of coaxing to come forwards for close focusing at about 1,5m. It's almost as if there is too little tension on a spring somewhere.

Can anyone tell me how to fix this, please?

Secondly, to my utter amazement, there is absolutely no felt or anything to ensure against light leaks around the back...Does this cause problems, or are these RFs usually light tight due to their design?

Thanks all,
Kent

 

[kiev4a]

My FED5 had a sponge rubber strip that has turned to gum. I need to clean it out and put in some felt or something. If there isn't any material in the groves you may have light leak problems.

 

[Max Power]

The thing that I don't quite understand, though, is that this is a new in the box FED 5 and there is absolutely no evidence of light seals at any time having been there.

Does anyone have any ideas about the RF arm?

Any other experiences with light leaks from this kind of back?

Thanks,
Kent

 

[wlewisiii]

The Fed 5 I had also never had seals. I installed some foam I had available just to be safe.

William

 

[kiev4a]

My FED 5 is the first model. They must have decided on later models that the light seal wasn't necessary. I'm going to clean out the gum and replace it with felt strips

 

[pshinkaw]

None of my Fed-5's have light seals and one does leak. If it needs it, I suggest you go ahead and use foam seals or a felt seal.

The tension on the rangefinder arm is set by a single spring arm under the top. In order to access it you have to remove the top cover. I have never done that on a Fed-5, mostly becasue the rapid winder lever is somewhat of a pain to remove. The problem you describe is m,ost likely caused by a weal or misplaced spring. However, since the arm is pushed pretty far back when the lens is attached, it may not be a problem as is.

To examine it, mount the lens, remove the back and fire the shutter on B. You should be able to see the cam contacting the back of the rangefinder coupling ring on the lens. Focus the lens in and out. If the cam contacts the lens coupler throughout the focusing range, you should be OK.

-Paul

 

[Max Power]

To examine it, mount the lens, remove the back and fire the shutter on B. You should be able to see the cam contacting the back of the rangefinder coupling ring on the lens. Focus the lens in and out. If the cam contacts the lens coupler throughout the focusing range, you should be OK.

-Paul

Paul, this is precisely what I did, and noticed that as the coupler moves forward, the arm does not follow, it needs a little coaxing. Perhaps I need to look at the spring inside the top cover.

As for the possibility of a light leak; I have yet to run my first roll of film through the camera (I will do it today after work). I will run a test roll and do some standard shutter speed and focus tests. I will also do a light leak test with a flashlight. I already have some of Jon Goodman's sealing material, so I'll use some of that if necessary.

I have to say that the camera itself seems to work very well, and as a first foray into the whole FSU RF thing, it's a great start. The speeds seem right on...It's just that it's so horribly homely 😀. I can see myself either painting it all black and removing the red vinyl or even getting a 3B!!!

Thanks a bunch all of you,

Kent

 

[captainslack]

It's just that it's so horribly homely 😀. I can see myself either painting it all black and removing the red vinyl or even getting a 3B!!!

Pics, Kent!!! We want pics!!!! 😀

 

[pshinkaw]

Max:

Before you take the top off, you might want to try a teeny, tiny drop of oil on the shaft of the cam arm. Turn the camera topside down with the lens off, and put a tiny drop of oil on the end of a sewing needle. Insert the needle under cam directly onto the shaft (Under the screw, but over the round washer-like bearing). Let it sit for a few hours to migrate down (up actually).

If it doesn't work, you will have to remove the top and clean out the excess oil anyway, so don't worry about the oil migrating to where it isn't wanted.

I keep a Fed-5B in the office, and the cam arm on mine is very strong throughout it's entire travel.

-Paul

 

[Max Power]

Excellent Paul, thanks for the tip!

captainslack, OK, I'll post some pics tonight, but I'm warning you, you'll want to poke your own eyes out after seeing this FED in all of her red vinyl glory 😀

Kent

 

[reagan]

hey, I love these FSU rigs. I'm gonna risk one eye!

 

[Max Power]

The pics are coming...It's just that I think that my Sony digicam might start smoking if I take too many pics of the Sexy Red FED 😀

On a serious note, I pulled off the top yesterday to find out what the problem with the RF arm was. The pivot itself was not moving freely so I used a tiny drop of really good sewing machine oil and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the tip on this Paul.

But you've got to laugh...The guy gets a brand new in the box FED 5 and he's already tearing it apart and messing with it...Is that a sign of sickness or what 😛 ?

Cheers all,
Kent

 

[Max Power]

Here you go everyone 😀
The Sexy Red FED!!!

Enjoy, she's a rare beastie.

Kent

 

[captainslack]

Wow!!! No stealth photography with that bad-boy!!!

 

[reagan]

"Drop-dead-sexy"... Amen!! You did good my friend, real good. I like it!

 

[Fedzilla_Bob]

You know, that is the first FED 5 I thought looked good. Amazing how red can even make a Yugo look good. (no slight on your FED 5 tovarich).

And no... you aren't sick. I think all of us are brave enough to perform minor surgery on our FSU babies, ancient or new.

Enjoy, comrade!

 

[Max Power]

Well, good news,
I ran my first roll through yesterday and everything seems to be in great order. APX 100 @125 in Rodinal 1+50 for 14mins @20C. I did a series of film-speed tests in Zones I and VIII at different speeds plus close focus tests for the J-9 and the I-61. I also ran shutter speed tests and to my great surprise, they are all on, including the slow speeds. Everything was shot outside in the bright sunshine an there don't seem to be any light leaks. I did do a flare test with the I-61 and it was pretty bad with the sun at 90 degrees to the lens. I'm certainly going to have to build a lens-shade for that bad-boy 😀

The only thing that peeves me a bit is the limitations of the I-61...I know that it's supposed to be a great lens and all, but I really like lenses which run from f2 to f22...Oh well, I'm sure that GAS will drive me into a J-8 eventually!

I am really pleased with the test roll, so now I can go out and shoot some real pics!

Cheers,
Kent

 

[kiev4a]

You know, that is the first FED 5 I thought looked good. Amazing how red can even make a Yugo look good. (no slight on your FED 5 tovarich).

And no... you aren't sick. I think all of us are brave enough to perform minor surgery on our FSU babies, ancient or new.

Enjoy, comrade!

He's right. You usually won't pay any more for the camera and J8 that you would for just the J8. And if you prefer the older "white" J-8 with the focus lock, you almost have to get it on a camera.

 

[kiev4a]

Here is one from a seller I've dealt with. He's accurate and easy to deal with.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=15234&item=7520054161&rd=1

Yep. Alex is hard to beat. He never sells junk.

 

[Max Power]

Yep. Alex is hard to beat. He never sells junk.

Agreed, that's who I bought the 5V from.

But Geez...Here I just received the 5V and I'm already starting to think that maybe I ought to get a J-8 with a huge rear lens-cap...This FSU RF stuff is just CRAZY!!! Another GAS attack coming on!

Kent