fidget
Lemon magnet
Hi, I'd posted a short while ago about overlapping frames on my Kiev4a. (Possibly rectified). I took it on a walking holiday in the mountains of Granada. Whilst I was quite frustrated that it had a frame wind-on fault, I could see in the negatives that just a few pics looked quite nice. This one in particular is one of two taken within seconds of each other on a Jupiter 12. (I have learned that if you think you have a "good" shot, don't risk a single frame on it.......).
Guess what, another "problem". Maybe not one to worry about, but still a puzzler. Prints from both negs on two different enlargers show a vertical band in the middle of the sky. Anyone seen this type of effect? how can this be caused in-camera?
I think that I might dig out my 79 Kiev, although it had a clunky shutter, it was fine.
Dave...
Guess what, another "problem". Maybe not one to worry about, but still a puzzler. Prints from both negs on two different enlargers show a vertical band in the middle of the sky. Anyone seen this type of effect? how can this be caused in-camera?
I think that I might dig out my 79 Kiev, although it had a clunky shutter, it was fine.
Dave...
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colyn
ישו משיח
If you are talking about that slightly darker vertical line it looks like there might be a small amount of light leakage in the side of the door next to the film take-up spool.
What I would do is to paint the door edge and track with flat black paint and see if that fixes the problem. While you are at it do both sides.
Another thing to consider is using a Kiev film cassette with the original 2 slotted spool as your take-up. This wil shield the film from leakage along this side.
These cassettes can be bought from Fedka for $2.99US
What I would do is to paint the door edge and track with flat black paint and see if that fixes the problem. While you are at it do both sides.
Another thing to consider is using a Kiev film cassette with the original 2 slotted spool as your take-up. This wil shield the film from leakage along this side.
These cassettes can be bought from Fedka for $2.99US
fidget
Lemon magnet
Just looking at the straight scans of the negs, I can see more examples of this off the same film. Never noticed when I'd scanned them. Doh! Maybe it is something significant after all.
I see no band on pics taken on the next day when it was overcast yet all pics showing sky on that day have a band. It was very bright that day and I changed the film on that very high road. Hmmm, got to be a light leak? Ever heard of light spoiling film in the cassette, before or after use?
I see no band on pics taken on the next day when it was overcast yet all pics showing sky on that day have a band. It was very bright that day and I changed the film on that very high road. Hmmm, got to be a light leak? Ever heard of light spoiling film in the cassette, before or after use?
Attachments
fidget
Lemon magnet
Thanks Colyn, It wouldn't take much to repaint as you suggest. Maybe even a little material in the groove.
oscroft
Veteran
They're dark bands, so I don't think they can be light leaks.
fidget
Lemon magnet
could be that the problem is that it is a lighter area to the left, rather than a darker area to the right....if you know what I mean...it's difficult to see which it is, I can only recognise the boundary between a dark and a light area.
40oz
...
look like scanner issues to me. Mine puts a horizontal stripe across negs when it gets hot. Look for it in prints before you go ballistic on the camera.
phototone
Well-known
40oz said:
the OP said these appeared on darkroom prints.
Xmas
Veteran
Fidget
If you use a chrome film you will be able to detect if the leak is from the front or back of the film, - from the colour.
Alternatively if the leak is a sharply defined parrallel sided leak then it is difficult to see how it can occur except via the shutter slats:-
- does the effect occur (continue into) in the rebate area? If not it must be the shutter.
- is the 2nd blind 1st (or 2nd) slat gap hidden after the shutter fires, this would provide a slight banding effect if there was a bad slat damage (and the exposure was short, 250-1000)?
If the leak occurs in the rebate, and is still parrallel then it cannot be from the cassette side, because of the rail lead ins, and I dont see how it can occur in the take up side, either.
Lastly a straw, has your camera got both the cassette holding springs intact? If not shine a bright torch (flash light) from one side of camera in darkened room.
Noel
P.S. like the photos
If you use a chrome film you will be able to detect if the leak is from the front or back of the film, - from the colour.
Alternatively if the leak is a sharply defined parrallel sided leak then it is difficult to see how it can occur except via the shutter slats:-
- does the effect occur (continue into) in the rebate area? If not it must be the shutter.
- is the 2nd blind 1st (or 2nd) slat gap hidden after the shutter fires, this would provide a slight banding effect if there was a bad slat damage (and the exposure was short, 250-1000)?
If the leak occurs in the rebate, and is still parrallel then it cannot be from the cassette side, because of the rail lead ins, and I dont see how it can occur in the take up side, either.
Lastly a straw, has your camera got both the cassette holding springs intact? If not shine a bright torch (flash light) from one side of camera in darkened room.
Noel
P.S. like the photos
Xmas
Veteran
Dave
Looked at my Kievs, and the slat joins would not cause a strip like you have, there is not a slat joint exposed to the problem. The first and second slat joint after exposure is in front of film and would cause a large 'spot' if it leaked.
The capping pair (i.e. the top and bottom blind mating pair) if they had been damaged might cause a similar leak. This joint is normally buried in the chassis but as you wind on will track the film. It is easy to check, partly wind on and see if a flash light will show through the blind, it would not be an easy to see leak, otherwise the effect on the film would be extreme. The damage to the capping pair may be more obvious than the light leak.
This sort of a leak normally causes a diagonal strip as the shutter is wound the film is also wound...
Sorry for false info, looks like an interesting fault.
Noel
Looked at my Kievs, and the slat joins would not cause a strip like you have, there is not a slat joint exposed to the problem. The first and second slat joint after exposure is in front of film and would cause a large 'spot' if it leaked.
The capping pair (i.e. the top and bottom blind mating pair) if they had been damaged might cause a similar leak. This joint is normally buried in the chassis but as you wind on will track the film. It is easy to check, partly wind on and see if a flash light will show through the blind, it would not be an easy to see leak, otherwise the effect on the film would be extreme. The damage to the capping pair may be more obvious than the light leak.
This sort of a leak normally causes a diagonal strip as the shutter is wound the film is also wound...
Sorry for false info, looks like an interesting fault.
Noel
ZeissFan
Veteran
It could be a number of things. Here's one possibility:
-- Stress marks on the film. That could be during winding or rewinding or possibly the film got bent during the developing process.
-- Stress marks on the film. That could be during winding or rewinding or possibly the film got bent during the developing process.
fidget
Lemon magnet
Thanks for your help everyone. I have checked in the rebate of the film and can't see any marks, but as this looks like a fine change could it be possible that it's too slight to see in the rebate. Other shots from the roll may also show the problem. If it's a light leak from the back, then I believe that it would have to be along one of the sides, effecting the film as it is wound onto the spool. I'll have a go at renewing the light proofing, then I'll run another film through again and if the wind on thing is resolved then maybe it's worth chasing this down. Or perhaps I'll never see it again.
Xmas
Veteran
Dave
It should be much more visible on the rebate as there is no 'background' exposure other them the manufacturers identification print to conceal it.
If the rebate is clear then it could be a subtle fault.
Is all the black paint inside the camera intact, my Kievs have the odd bright or rust spot, it would need to be an interesting shape to give this effect
Noel
P.S. I have just seen where you say you are using a j12, please also check the rear element bevel on the J12, i.e. is the J12 rear - a glass cylinder painted black, with a coated rear optic with an interveaning ground glass bevel, between the optical surface and the blackened cylinder. If so you need to black board paint the ground glass bevel as these are capabl;e of producing the most alarming artafacts, - not seen one like yours though. Was the picture at midday?
It should be much more visible on the rebate as there is no 'background' exposure other them the manufacturers identification print to conceal it.
If the rebate is clear then it could be a subtle fault.
Is all the black paint inside the camera intact, my Kievs have the odd bright or rust spot, it would need to be an interesting shape to give this effect
Noel
P.S. I have just seen where you say you are using a j12, please also check the rear element bevel on the J12, i.e. is the J12 rear - a glass cylinder painted black, with a coated rear optic with an interveaning ground glass bevel, between the optical surface and the blackened cylinder. If so you need to black board paint the ground glass bevel as these are capabl;e of producing the most alarming artafacts, - not seen one like yours though. Was the picture at midday?