My new to me Nikon S3

[scorpius73]

I got a Nikon S3-2000 today from another member here on RFF. It looks great. I can't wait to get out this weekend a use up some film. Is it my Nikon S3 or just this particular one. Here are my observations against my Nikon SP original. The focus wheel isn't as smooth as the SP when you get close to minimum focus and the advance knob isn't as smooth when its coming back from advancing the frame. Just two observations. But, those are small and I think I'm going to love the camera.
Happy Friday to everyone.

 

[Tom A]

I have two of the S3-2000, one chrome and one black. There are minute differences in how they "feel". The chrome one is a bit rougher in the advance and focus ,it also squelled like a cat when you step on its tail in the focus mount. After some 40-50 rolls it settled in and is now both quiet and smooth (The cat is still pissed though!).
The black S3-2000 was silky smooth right out of the box. In fact it is the smoothest camera I have -and this includes M2's/MP's and SP's. The shutter is virtually inaudible - almost Bessa III like (the new bench mark for noiseless exposures).
You probably ned to shoot a couple of "bricks" of film with yours to get it settled in. Great excuse anyway.

 

[jonmanjiro]

Congrats on the S3 2000, Jermaine 🙂

If you search the Nikon forum for "squeaky focus helical" or something similar, you'll find a few threads about people who experienced similar with their S3 2000's.

As Tom A suggested, the hard core shooter's method for fixing it would be to shoot 40 - 50 rolls through it, and settle it in! But I'm too impatient for that. I need my cameras to be working right, like, yesterday 🙄 So, I'd pull the focus helical off and clean/lubricate it. Actually a very easy job if you're handy with tools.

The tight advance lever return is common to most reissue Nikon RFs, and will become smoother through use.

 

[historicist]

+1 jonmanjiro, I had exactly the same thing on my S3 2000 - not as smooth as the S2 I had before, after a fair few rolls got super rough, then a bit better - don't make em like they used to 😉

 

[scorpius73]

Thanks guys. I loaded it up with Kodak Tri-X and will get out today for some shooting. It will be hard to leave the SP at home. I think the SP may be my favorite camera.

 

[JonR]

You will love your S3-2000 - it is one of my favourites!
Jon R

 

[Highway 61]

The S3 2000 helical is assembled dry and squeaks (particularly with the Millenium Nikkor 50/1.4 which is quite heavy). On mine (got from a RFF member 😉) I took the helical apart and lubed it with some tiny amounts of ball bearings white lithium grease.

It's now smooth as silk and totally silent.

Actually this is what I did on all my Nikon RF bodies.

 

[VinceC]

Original cameras from 50 years ago tend to be very smooth from decades of use, grease and grime inside. Both my reissue SP and S3 (chrome) are doing fine after100+ rolls of film though each.

 

[jonmanjiro]

Fred, I've taken a close up look at a few S3 2000 helicoids, and I think the main problem is that the machining tolerances are much tighter on the reissue helicoids than on the vintage Nikon helicoids. I think even the slightest amount of dust in there can cause squeaks and what not. Easy enough to clean though (and lube if desired).

 

[Highway 61]

I know (from having the original Nikon SP factory repair manual) that the Nikon RF helicoid is said to be left dry.

That said since it's a clone of the Contax helicoid, which is designed to be lubed, I can't get why.

I have five Nikon RF bodies (original S3, SP, S2 chrome dial, S2 black dial, S3 2000) and every helicoid of mine has been taken apart and cleaned, then relubed with modern white lithium grease and reassembled. All of them were squeaking and had hard motion points. Now they're all smooth as silk and focusing with these cameras is a pure joy, were it using the lens barrel itself or the focusing wheel.

The job has been done years ago and the grease hasn't migrated towards the cameras' electronics.😉

I guess the clue is to use a good grease (I use white lithium grease designed for race bicycles ball bearings), very few of it, and to apply it on a very clean bronze, without trapping any dust, debris or remnants of old grease or old oxydized metal.

 

[jonmanjiro]

I use a light grease designed for lens focus helicals. You'll soon know if you put too much grease on because the focus helical will be "weighed down" and become really hard to turn with the focus wheel. As mentioned above, a very sparing amount of grease on clean surfaces is all thats needed.

 

[Tom A]

Another source of squeeling helicoils - slight rubbing against the front coverplate. This was the case with my chrome S3 2000. I took of the front plate and did a light swipe with a fine tooth file around it and that helped.
Modern machining allows manufacturers to produce parts within tolerances that not long ago was reserved for makers of fine watches! This is all fine, but ambient temperature, dust, moisture in the air will now affect the function more.
As for lubing the helicoil - I use a very small amount of watch oil and as it will evaporate with time - it just gives me the chance to "run" it in with some film until it is smooth.