kshapero
South Florida Man
just tried it. The timer switch seems to want the full deal before it does its thing, so no advantage there.Thanks, Cale. One last question, and maybe Akiva can chime in: what does the self-timer do with this modification ?
Roland.
kshapero
South Florida Man
You will get it by feel. Practice (after, ocurse, you get the modification) without putting film in. It is very noticeable how to two stage the shutter process and yet if you want to shot regularly just push like before.Alright, i'm officially obsessing over here. Interesting post on the Nikon Repair Forum on this subject.. this thing even has a name!
I'm thinking that just the ability to reduce sheer mirror speed overall (up or down) is worth the small price of admission. The question that remains for me is how you know when the shutter is going to release..
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Quieter maybe, but like any SLR if looking through the viewfinder you still can't be sure you "got the shot".
IMO momentary viewfinder blackout is the worst feature of the SLR design. This only prolongs the agony...
Chris
IMO momentary viewfinder blackout is the worst feature of the SLR design. This only prolongs the agony...
Chris
kshapero
South Florida Man
True but it isn't as bad as you say, IMHO. Can't compete with my M3.Quieter maybe, but like any SLR if looking through the viewfinder you still can't be sure you "got the shot".
IMO momentary viewfinder blackout is the worst feature of the SLR design. This only prolongs the agony...
Chris
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I sometime use my OM-1 with the mirror up and my left index finger holding the depth of field preview button fully in. With no mirror slap and no mechanism stopping aperture down when you press the shutter the camera is incredibly smooth ... the only thing left operating is the cloth shutter. The camera becomes near vibrationless!
sanmich
Veteran
I don't really see the point since, as far as I understand, the picture wil be the same.
But, that gives me an idea:
Take your F (not mine please), put a plain prism, a waist level, or even just a cover.
put a wide angle lens, attach a finder, switch the MLU on and there you go.
I can even imagine how a simple cover for the screen could be fit with an accesory shoe to take the finder and limit the parallax difference.
But, that gives me an idea:
Take your F (not mine please), put a plain prism, a waist level, or even just a cover.
put a wide angle lens, attach a finder, switch the MLU on and there you go.
I can even imagine how a simple cover for the screen could be fit with an accesory shoe to take the finder and limit the parallax difference.
ferider
Veteran
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