My Noctilux Diary

@DeepWhite: Love the shot you call "Naked". For some reason, the photo made me laugh.

Keep up the great work, but please don't be afraid of trying the Noctilux on moving subjects - try my advice on page 3... IMO this lense is wasted on still lifes...
 
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urban_alchemist said:
.... try my advice on page 3... IMO this lense is wasted on still lifes...
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... I agree, not limited to still lifes.

1/30s

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@ urban_alchemist & maddoc,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try it.

------

I always switch between film and digital: one lens & the film camera for one roll, then the same lens & the digital body (R-D1s) for two or three days, then back to film....

It's much more fun. Keeps me going.

After the first roll of B/W with the Noctilux, I took it out with the R-D1s again.

My girlfriend and I were testing our new Polaroid 420 that day, so not too many photos from the Noctilux.

There was heavy traffic all day. While we got stuck on the road, I suddenly had a glimpse of something outside my car window. I didn't have time to roll off the dirty window, since the cars started to move again; I just took the camera out, set the distance manually before point the camera to the eyes, and pressed the shutter.

When I got home, I found that the dirty car window did ruin the shot: it looked like that the lens got haze, and the photo looked de-saturated.

Post-production.

I haven't tweaked my photos for a long time. Since I came back to film camera this April, I tried very hard to achieve "what I shoot is what I get". So when I did it again, I figured, why not do it heavily?

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Yeah, digital artifacts. But it does look better from the original shot.

- to be continued
 
@Deepwhite - at least you can use the Noctilux on a digital camera!

Mine backfocuses so much on my M8 it is totally unusable. Come to think of it, it's not the only one. Of all my lenses, the only ones that focus properly are the 35 'Lux and the 28 Elmarit.

I know I could send the rest off to Solms, but with their turnaround (15 weeks for a broken shutter on my M7), I don't think I could bear to be without my gear for that long 🙁

@Filmfan - thanks for the constructive comments!
 
@urban_alchemist

I've heard some local M8 users complaining that all their lenses need re-calibration, while some others seem to have a great combination and keep delivering great shots. Sorry to hear that it happens to you too.

@ cam,

The difference between a Noctilux @f2 and a Summicron 35/2 IV @f2 is hard to explain...by me, since I'm not a native English speaker and my vocabulary is to limited for this job. I'll try to find some shots that "self-explain" themselves.

@ filmfan,

Good for you! I wish that I did not love a Noctilux shot and were happy with something (well, almost anything else is) cheaper. I believe everyone has their own best tools. One of my friend has nothing but old Russian lenses since they suit his style. His expense is a lot less than mine.
 
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urban_alchemist said:
Mine backfocuses so much on my M8 it is totally unusable. Come to think of it, it's not the only one. Of all my lenses, the only ones that focus properly are the 35 'Lux and the 28 Elmarit.

I know I could send the rest off to Solms, but with their turnaround (15 weeks for a broken shutter on my M7), I don't think I could bear to be without my gear for that long 🙁
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Backfocus sounds bad 🙁 Does it really take 15 weeks to calibrate the M8 in Solms ? I had my Noctilux repaired by Leica Japan, it took them 6 weeks (front part was loose, user error ...:bang🙂
 
maddoc said:
Backfocus sounds bad 🙁 Does it really take 15 weeks to calibrate the M8 in Solms ? I had my Noctilux repaired by Leica Japan, it took them 6 weeks (front part was loose, user error ...:bang🙂
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Well, the turnaround time for my M7 was quoted at three weeks...

I'm sending in my Summilux 50 this week (quoted: 9 weeks), so I'll ask them to calibrate it then, but the Noctilux? Can't go without it that long...
 
urban_alchemist said:
I'm sending in my Summilux 50 this week (quoted: 9 weeks), so I'll ask them to calibrate it then, but the Noctilux? Can't go without it that long...
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Hi urban_alchemist,

A bit off topic in my own thread. How would you describe the difference between a Noctilux and a Summilux 50? (I've asked maddoc this question before I went for the Noctilux.)
 
deepwhite said:
Hi urban_alchemist,

A bit off topic in my own thread. How would you describe the difference between a Noctilux and a Summilux 50? (I've asked maddoc this question before I went for the Noctilux.)
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I'll tell you better when I actually get to use the Summilux properly :bang:
I've got the LHSA version that came as part of my MP-3 set. However, I've only used for one roll as it has had a sticky focus-ring since I bought it - hence the trip.

For a start, it is much smaller than the Noctilux (but almost everything is). The focus-ring necessitates much less travel, so focusing is much easier. Generally, it handles very much like a 50 Summicron, just with another stop.

As far as the results - it is a lovely lense. Ultra-sharp, warm, and with that lovely separation and glow that leica's best lenses are known for. The bokeh is much smoother than the Noctilux, and the sharpness is throughout, not in flowing 'points'.

Objectively, it is a much better lense - but that doesn't mean I'll necessarily use it more. I guess I'll just have to see when I get it back...
 
Thanks for the reply. Your description is similar to my impression of the Summilux 50 from the internet pictures, which I also love very much, though different love from the Noctilux. I'm still keeping an eye on a decent priced 2nd-hand.
 
Deepwhite and other owners:

Is it true that the Noctilux requires very precise rangefinder alignment even on a film M? I am thinking of getting one for an MP but hate the thought of sending my camera for calibration with the lens.

This thread has GAS all over it. 😱
 
deepwhite said:
Hi urban_alchemist,

A bit off topic in my own thread. How would you describe the difference between a Noctilux and a Summilux 50? (I've asked maddoc this question before I went for the Noctilux.)
Click to expand...

deepwhite,

if you're still coming to the opening on friday, i've got my 50 lux (and my 35 lux ASPH) with me. If you bring the Noct you can fire off some comparison shots, albeit in limited surroundings....

j
 
@PATB

Yes the RF alignment has to be very accurate. As Double Negative said in the post above yours, f1.0 creates the "sharp eyes, blurry nose" effect, and that tells you how narrow the DoF is.

@Janas

Yes I'll be there. I'll bring the Noctilux & the R-D1s. Thanks for the offer!
 
i was an exceptional idiot and posted a thank you for starting this (and everybody who's contributed) -- in the wrong thread :bang: (yesterday i was obviously not at my brightest as i also switched my framelines to 28mm and was wondering why heads were getting cut off -- i was using a 35mm Lux 🙄 )

so again, i thank you! you made me go out and shoot wide open during the day to try and allay GAS. i know f/1,4 isn't the same as f/1 but i had a surprising amount of fun. it opened a whole realm of possibilities i hadn't thought of.

*********************

i'm sure this has been addressed but i couldn't find it... which filter do you use to shoot wide open during the day? will it still get reflections?
 
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