Nashville to New Orleans

Paul Jenkin

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Having driven Route 66 last October (and been bitten by the road trip bug) my wife and I are considering another trip across the USA but in a 90 degree different direction. We're thinking about a couple of nights in New York, followed by a flight to Nashville where we'd pick up a car and spend 10 nights or so driving down to New Orleans before heading back to the UK.

Nothing's "fixed" at the moment, though we're considering this trip from mid-September onwards in 2014. The intention is to make this a country, bluezy, jazzy "musical" trip.

I definitely want to spend some time in Nashville, Clarksdale, Memphis and New Orleans - for the vibe and the music, of course. However, I'm a keen landscape and travel photographer and was wondering what other "must see" stiuff exists en-route.

I'm open to suggestions and would be grateful for any tips / pointers locals or others who've traveled the same route are able to offer.

Thanks in advance.....
 
I've done something similar, and it rocked.

I live in Nashville.

A few summers ago, a friend and I road tripped from New Orleans to Memphis via Hwy 61. We drove to New Orleans in a straight shot (one day) by way of Birmingham, Meridian, and Hattiesburg; thus, the road trip was essentially a return--New Orleans to Memphis (with some additional noodling around in LA). Went like this:

New Orleans for a few days. Stayed at the Jackson Hotel on Royal Street. Hung out in the Quarter, Garden District, and a lot on Frenchman Street.

Went to Oak Alley Plantation. Very cool. They served mint juleps.

As an aside, alcohol comes with everything in Louisiana. Every place serves.

Drove to New Iberia. Didn't get there in time to go to the Tabasco Plant. Although, ate a place called Bon Creole Lunch Counter--best Po' Boy sandwich I've every had. From there, went to Fausse Pointe Lake State park, and spent the night (could have done without this--it's literally in the middle of nowhere).

Drove Hwy 61. Breakfast in St. Martinsville, LA (cool), Went through St. Francisville, LA (kinda cool), stayed in Natchez, MS. Stayed above the Under The Hill Saloon. They have 3 bedrooms above the bar. It was an experience. A band played downstair until 2am. We hung out for a while. It was loud when I tried to go to bed.

Went to some plantations around Natchez. Go to the Octagon-shaped one. I forget the name.

Drove to Clarksdale, but went through Port Gibson (cool for an hour or two) and Greenwood. In Greenwood, we got on the radio. Showed up at this radio shack in the middle of nowhere. We'd been jamming out to this guy all day, so we think--let's go visit. James Poe at 960 AM in Greenwood--place looks like the radio station in O Brother Where Art Thou. Dude was cool as hell. Interviewed us, and then pointed out where Robert Johnson is buried (supposedly)--the church yard was in sight of the radio station. He replayed the interview after we left, and we listened to it in the car. Top notch.

Drove to Clarksdale. Stayed at the Riverside Hotel. Awesome, but rustic. Ask for Rat.

In Clarksdale we went to Red's Lounge (city Juke Joint). Hung out with Red in the afternoon. Dude is cool, but very gruff. Another night we drove to Merigold, MS (close to Clarksdale, but seriously out in the sticks), and went to the Po Monkey Lounge (country juke joint), and this place was kickin. It's in the middle of nowhere--small share-cropper shack on the edge of a cotton field, and it's been there for years. A half mile down a dark dirt road, 5 bucks at the door, 40oz bottles of Bud light only, all cash, roof looks like it's about to come down. Everyone is jamming. Predominatly black crowd, but everyone was really cool (for real--friendly as hell, and didn't mind me taking pictures at all). Hung out with Po Monkey himself (Willie Seaberry). Chill.

Went to a few other Jukes--one in Indianola, but I forget the name. Had tamales in Rosedale (town is falling down).

Ended in Memphis. Stayed with my cousin on Mud Island (white folks 'ville). Went out drinking.

Overall, a tremendous trip. I really have a soft spot in my heart for the Delta.

I can try to answer any questions you have.

Here are some of the pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wilonstott/sets/72157640877689833/
 
stayed in Natchez, MS. Stayed above the Under The Hill Saloon. They have 3 bedrooms above the bar. It was an experience. A band played downstair until 2am. We hung out for a while. It was loud when I tried to go to bed.

I did a similar trip almost ten years ago and had a very similar experience in Natchez, staying at the at the same place (it's the Mark Twain Guest House above the Under-The-Hill-Saloon). If you stay there make sure you get the room we had which looks out over the river. My companion on the trip was a bit of a party animal, so we hung out in the saloon and then got invited to some other places. Have to agree that this is a very special part of the world.
 
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