Need a flash for an M6 (classic)

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mr_phillip

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Hey all

I've got a project coming up which I think is going to require a flash for part of it.

Being all about the natural light, I don't currently own a flash – I haven't even used one with a Leica before. I'm looking for something compact, shoe-mounted, and with a head that's adjustable for angle. It's also important that it not only work well with the M6 (non-ttl version), but that the flash doesn't spoil the balance/handling of the camera too much.

If anyone could recommend a model from experience I'd be grateful.

Cheers,
Ian
 
Leica Flash SF20 would be the perfect choice.
2nd hands can be had for cheap.
Been using a SF20 with my M6 classic . . .
Great power output control down to F1.2
Confirmed with my flash meter . . . spot on.

Unfortunately the head does not tilt.

But don't forget the SF20.
 
you can take the sf 20 off camera with a nikon sc-17 cord, also fairly cheap on ebay and elsewhere. google *sfill* for a great, cheap diffuser if you leave the unit on cam (lutz konermann's website).

prices on the sf 20 have dropped with the intro of the sf 24, i believe

other options: metz 34cs-2, nikon sb-e, vivitar 252, sunpak 1600a (tilts)
 
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Just about any flash that has a tilt/swivel head is going to be big and heavy enough to change the handling of the camera fairly significantly. Either wat, look for any flash that is small and has either variable manual power or auto apertures- either of these modes will work well with any non TTL Leica. I use a Nikon SB30 when I want a very small flash on the camera. It's great- it's tiny, yet fairly powerful; it has both auto apertures (2 power settings) and manual power settings (full to 1/32), and it uses a small lithium battery which, while not quite as convenient as AA's, gives very long life and nearly instant recycle, especially at lower power settings.

I would recommend that rather than looking for a flash with a til/swivel head, just get a smaller unit, and use it off camera with a cord and point it where you want it. I do this all the time, and it works like a charm. I use regular PC sync cords plugged into the back of the camera, but you can use a hotshoe off-camera cord, too, if you like. Any manufactures' off camera cord will work with the M6 classic, since all you are using is the central pin. If you are using the M6 TTL or M7 and want TTL, you need (besides a Leica compatable flash) a cable with the same pin-configuration. Both Nikon and Contax equipment use the same configuration as Leica, so you can use their cords- but again, this is for TTL modes only and thus does not apply to you.
 
Not sure what the project is, but agree with the above provided you do not want too much power. The SF20 is great for fill flash but it does not have quite enough to be the sole source of illumination.

Id also be tempted to look at a small studio head which leaves the camera totally hands free (with an IR sync). Not sure if this is possible for your project.
 
If you happen to come along a Nikon SB-20, don't hesitate. They're quite cheap these days. They have a low voltage and will not damage the M6 or M6 TTL circuits. Swivable lamp, variable light angles for 28mm, 35mm and 85mm lenses, 5 power levels (1/1-1/16), hot shoe locking screw.

Haven't used mine much because I prefer available light, but when i use it, it works well. It's more used by my kids who have fun to flash cars from the boarder of the road, making the drivers believe they've been radar captured...

Didier
 
I enjoy my Nikon SB27, which came brand new from ebay at a ridiculously low price (< US$ 40 IIRC). It has some funny bouncing features, but I may be already to large or heavy for some. I run it on eneloop rechargeables - very little decharging, really. The SB27 has the advantage, that I can use it with the F2 w/o looking funny.

Rgds
Ivo
 
I've done some research a few months ago when I was considering getting a flash for my M6. I've since abandoned the idea but my requirements were similar to yours, and the Nikon SB20 came first place, for all the good reasons mentioned above. For what it's worth...

Vincent
 
No need to spend big $$ for a super-techno flash unit. Look no further then a simple, non-expensive yet reliable auto-thyristo units from Sunpak or Vivitar.
My Sunpak 383 Super does superb job on my M6 Classic - very precise exposures (used it on several improtant indoors events) thanks to its auto-thyristor circuitry, tilts and swivel, robust and reliable yet quite inexpensive (under 100$). After years of expesive experience with fully featured technologically-advanced flash system frmo Minolta and Canon, I was really suprised how well those simple auto-thyristor flash units can perform.
Having said that, had not have the chance to try the combo for a delicate fill-in cases...
 
I've got a Nikon SB-30, which is very similar in size to the Leica SF20 (actually, they are almost identical, I guess they must be made by the same company), so about as small as flashes go, but has quite a lot of useful features for this type of use.

There are four different apertures for the auto modes, flash compensation by +/- 1/2 stop, manual modes (1/32, 1/8 and 1/1), slave mode, and a built in flash diffuser. I find the large number of different modes make it useable with a wide range of cameras.

Manual on 1/32 with the diffuser up is really good for adding light while avoiding too much of that flash look.

No tilt and swivel, but nothing's perfect, and I guess anything small isn't going to have enough power to bounce off a ceiling.

Hope this helps.
 
I'd suggest a Vivitar 283, with cable. The sensor on the front of the flash can be removed and plugged into the cable. The other end of the cable then connects to the flash where the sensor used to be. The sensor end of the cable mounts on a hot shoe so it always points in the same direction as the lens. and the whole thing is triggered by the hot shoe.

I think these have been out of production for some time, but working versions may be out there. It was a very popular (I think starting in the '70's) uses 4 AA batteries, but there are/were numerous accessory battery packs.
 
historicist said:
I've got a Nikon SB-30, which is very similar in size to the Leica SF20 (actually, they are almost identical, I guess they must be made by the same company), so about as small as flashes go, but has quite a lot of useful features for this type of use.

There are four different apertures for the auto modes, flash compensation by +/- 1/2 stop, manual modes (1/32, 1/8 and 1/1), slave mode, and a built in flash diffuser. I find the large number of different modes make it useable with a wide range of cameras.

Manual on 1/32 with the diffuser up is really good for adding light while avoiding too much of that flash look.

No tilt and swivel, but nothing's perfect, and I guess anything small isn't going to have enough power to bounce off a ceiling.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Would you happen to know if the SB-30 is safe to use on M6 TTL or M7 bodies? I've been using my SB-30 with the R-D1, would love to have the same flash for all 3.
 
Andy: the SB-30 is fine to use on the M6TTL/M7, provided you don't try to use TTL mode. Don't let the pin configuration fool you; the electonics are incompatible. User beware- but otherwise, sure.

That said, it's a great little flash.
 
Thanks for all the great replies, there's some really helpful info here. In the end the choice was made easy – I came across an SF-20 in a local dealer's for half what they seem to be selling for on eBay. I like MCTuomey's idea of using it off-camera and I'll definitely look into the sc-17 cord.

Now I just need to figure out how to get the best from the thing.
 
serpia said:
I'd suggest a Vivitar 283, with cable. The sensor on the front of the flash can be removed and plugged into the cable. The other end of the cable then connects to the flash where the sensor used to be. The sensor end of the cable mounts on a hot shoe so it always points in the same direction as the lens. and the whole thing is triggered by the hot shoe.

I think these have been out of production for some time, but working versions may be out there. It was a very popular (I think starting in the '70's) uses 4 AA batteries, but there are/were numerous accessory battery packs.
Click to expand...

Actually, you can get the Vivitar 283 or 285 new again. They are making them and they are safe to use with newer cameras because their sync voltage is lower. Not sure about if the cable is still in production.
 
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