Need For Speed! Summilux or the Sumicron + Noise Ninja?

[Bobfrance]

Hi Folks,

For low-light photography. As a practical solution and an attempt to save my bank balance, I was just wondering how would a 35mm Summlix ASPH compare to using a 35mm Summicron at a higher ISO and employing Noise Ninja (or similar software) to reduce the inherent noise?

I ask because I have never owned a Leica lens before (shoot mostly Zeiss & CV), and in my search for a fast 35mm lens I tried a Summilux and have fallen for the way it renders. As far as I have seen the only cheaper option that comes close is the 'Cron, but of course it isn't as fast.

Before anyone suggests it. I've tried the 1.2 Nokton (too big!), canon 1.5 LTM (liked it but a bit soft and didn't like the controls), 1.4 Nokton (dislike the bubbly bokeh) and the 1.7 Nokton (used to own one - thought it delivered flat images).*

Please don't be offended if you own and love any of the above lenses I listed - it's just my personal taste. 😱

I would welcome anyone's thought on my lens dilemma!

Bob. 🙂

 

[furcafe]

For low-light shooting, I think the advantages of faster glass outweigh anything that can be provided by just getting Noise Ninja (or Neat Image, etc.). I should also add that in my experience w/M8 & R-D1 raw files, using Noise Ninja doesn't really give you a 1-stop difference; it's an improvement, but not dramatic. Besides, if you can afford the Summilux, you should be able to afford the software, too (only $70 for pro standalone), regardless of whether you end up buying the 'lux.

 

[mknawabi]

embrace the grain, push tri-x in xtol

 

[Bobfrance]

Thanks guys.

My predicament is that that I can't really warrant spending Summilux prices at the moment, let alone Summilux + software. I was merely wondering if it was possible to close the performance gap using higher ISOs and software.

I guess there's no substitute for aperture. I may have to buy something to be going on with and trade-up when finances allow.

 

[furcafe]

I would get the software now, since it is useful for the M8 @ all the higher ISOs (as well as other digital cameras & w/unwanted film grain, etc.).

Thanks guys.

My predicament is that that I can't really warrant spending Summilux prices at the moment, let alone Summilux + software. I was merely wondering if it was possible to close the performance gap using higher ISOs and software.

I guess there's no substitute for aperture. I may have to buy something to be going on with and trade-up when finances allow.

 

[nandemofoto]

Noise Ninja and its profiles work great with my d700 files, however it isn't that good with my M8 files.
I found that I get best results using canon 40D (also 10mp camera) presets on my M8 files.

Can anyone share their Noise Ninja settings for m8?

 

[Hephaestus]

The 35mm Summilux ASPH appears very seldom on the used market and I think there is very good reason for this. It's a very handy lens and is the very last piece of glass that I'd ever personally part with.

Ryan

 

[Jason Sprenger]

There's a hunter's axiom, bring enough gun.

My f2 lenses are my general purpose set, I also do not arbitrarily shun a flash units, and I have Neat Image for when, among other things, I'm caught in the dim with what I have.

But if I know it's going to be dark and flash is not desirable or cannot happen, I bring fast lenses so as to give me the best chance for a good capture.

My f2 lenses are best for f2 and slower, but if it means the difference between a 1/30th and a 1/15th or pushing things, I prefer to get the best exposure I can in the camera.

 

[Steve Ash]

What about adding a Leica SF-58? With the possibility of bouncing light the flash light will not be too obvious.

Regards
Steve

 

[maddoc]

There is no substitution for a fast lens in dim-light. 😉 The only question is if you face low-light situations that often to spend the many $$$$ ....

 

[Bobfrance]

There is no substitution for a fast lens in dim-light. 😉 The only question is if you face low-light situations that often to spend the many $$$$ ....

To tell the truth I haven't done much low-light in the past, but over the coming months I'm off on a holiday (probably Singapore) and going to London for New Year. Both are situation where there should be some good low-light photo opportunities. In addition we're heading to Winter here in the UK, so opportunities for me to go shooting in daylight will thin on the ground.

I don't currently own a 35mm lens and would probably sell my 28mm Biogon to help towards the cost as I seem to favour longer focal lengths.

The only issue is that going to London & Singpore will take ££££s from the Summilux budget. Not to mention my O/H want a new bathroom and I've just broken a tooth - which will probably be more painful for my bank account than me!

I imagine my dentist will be able to afford a new Summilux. 😉

 

[icebear]

I guess your situation sets the priorities:

1. dentist
2. bathroom
3. used 'lux if you can do a lot of #2. yourself - otherwise forget about it :bang:

 

[Bobfrance]

Ha ha, I was thinking of doing the dentistry myself.
Gotta be worth it for a 'Lux. 😀

I have a proper look at Noise Ninja too. I never normally shoot above 320, so I've not needed it so far.

 

[kshapero]

My cheap solution. I own a CV 35/2.5 lens for daytime and CV 35/1.2 for night and other low light situations. I also own Noise Ninja but use it mainly on Ricoh GX200 shots.

 

[Bobfrance]

Update...

Well, I nearly bought a Canon 35/1.5 for a cheap low-light shooter. It was a nice lens with plenty of character, but I just happened to call in my local Leica dealer who had a secondhand 35mm 'Lux ASPH in stock.

To cut along story short - I took the plunge. Spurred on by another photograper in the shop who said, "Buy it! It will save you money in the long run. It has cost me loads in the past gradually trading up to what I really wanted."

So far I'm very happy. 🙂

Taken a couple of hours after leaving the shop.